Dunlap plane

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Forum topic by garykentjr posted 11-11-2013 05:53 PM 1960 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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8 posts in 1651 days

11-11-2013 05:53 PM

Hello all. Im brand new to this forum. I recently acquired a dunlap plane. I intend to clean it up and use it. it also needs a new tote. I was wondering if there was a way to tell what number plane it is? Thanks for your time in advance.

14 replies so far

View 12strings's profile


434 posts in 2378 days

#1 posted 11-11-2013 07:11 PM

If they follow the same numbers as stanley, then a simple length measurement will tell you. You can find a stanley list here:

1,2,3,4 are smoothers
5 – Jack plane
6 – Fore plane
7,8 – Jointer planes

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3802 posts in 1955 days

#2 posted 11-11-2013 07:11 PM

Pictures would help. It probably has a number on it, but I’m not familiar with Dunlap’s. They were Sear’s second line planes, so it may not be worth too much time cleaning it up unless it’s just for fun and learning which is worth something. You can also just measure the sole (bottom) to get an idea of what number it is. 9-10” is typically referred to as a #4 size and 14” or so is a #5 because Stanley’s numbering system was most widely adopted.

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Don W

18707 posts in 2561 days

#3 posted 11-11-2013 11:09 PM and look at the Staley 1-8 size. It will be the same number. As Tim said they were sold by Sears. They are not bad users, but don’t have a lot of value. A good tuning and sharpening and you will have an ok plane.

knob and tote are hardwood. Usually beech or similar with a crappy finish. I usually sand them out and finish with a dark Danish oil and wax.

welcome to LJs.

we have a rule. Pictures or it didn’t happen.

-- - Collecting is an investment in the past, and the future.

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1768 posts in 1888 days

#4 posted 11-11-2013 11:24 PM

You don’t even have to measure a lot of planes, just look at where the back handle is. If it’s on the edge of the sole or hanging slightly over it’s a smoother (3-4). If the handle is maybe a couple inches from the end of the sole it’s a 5. Don’t know anything about Dunlaps, wonder if they even made anything but a 3-4-5?

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8 posts in 1651 days

#5 posted 11-11-2013 11:35 PM

There aren’t any numbers on it that I see. Will take pics tmrw since I’m at work on my phone. Thanks for all the responses.

View JustJoe's profile


1554 posts in 2032 days

#6 posted 11-11-2013 11:41 PM

Dunlaps branded Sears tools were sold in 3,4,5 size for regular planes, and there were block planes to imitate at least the stanley 18 (knuckle), 110 and 220. The planes were all 4-digit numbers, most starting with a 3. But nobody ever says “yea, I just scored a #3726 at the flea market” because if they did then half the audience would say “huh?, 3726?, whazzat?” and the other half would laugh and say “oh, that’s a cheap dunlap. You couldn’t find a MF, Stanley or Sargent?” So just compare the size to the Stanley and tell people you bought a #X sized plane and leave it at that. If you take it apart you might find casting numbers under the lever cap or on/under the frog/tote. That can help tell you who really made it.

It was the homeowner line so they also made tape measures, a zig-zag rule, coping saws, and handsaws. But they also made spokeshaves and a drawknife.

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8 posts in 1651 days

#7 posted 11-12-2013 12:11 AM

The only stamp I see is Dunlap. I have it all apart to de-rustify it tmrw. Ill check for numbers and such then. I know the frog is black and I believe the iron was in place back ward. I have a little bit of work ahead but it’ll turn out. I don’t have the budget to buy new stuff so I try and reuse as much as I can.

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32 posts in 2090 days

#8 posted 11-12-2013 12:39 AM

Dunlaps are fine. Mostly made by Sargent but sometimes also Stanley. I don’t think Miller’s Falls made them. About the only thing different between them and the Sargent equivalent is that the cheaper wood tote wasn’t usually fully rounded, and a nickeled steel depth adjustment nut instead of brass. But usually these were larger than the brass nuts, which is actually kind of nice. Sometimes the depth adjustment nipples are made from two stamped steel pieces which can be cheesy, but those can also be found on Sargent’s premium line toward the end as well. Anyone who can tune up a Bailey can make your Dunlap work just as well. These sometimes also turn up as “Fulton” planes, which can be just as good as far as users go. The only thing to worry about some Fultons and Sheltons is that some of them had stamped steel frogs, which should be avoided.

Measure the width of the blade. If it’s 1-3/4” it’s equivalent to a Bailey #3. If it’s 2” wide it’s a #4 smoother or (longer) #5 jack plane. I’ve never seen Dunlaps sized anything other than 3-4-5. Some Fultons were a #2 size, but rare obviously.

If you want a user plane that works as well as a Bailey, it’s fine. If you’re worried about resale value, it wouldn’t be a user would it?

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8 posts in 1651 days

#9 posted 11-12-2013 05:30 PM

alright. the plane is 2-1/4 by 9-3/4. the iron is 1-3/4 wide. pics to follow, hopefully.

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8 posts in 1651 days

#10 posted 11-12-2013 05:30 PM

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8 posts in 1651 days

#11 posted 11-12-2013 05:31 PM

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5619 posts in 2205 days

#12 posted 11-12-2013 05:40 PM

#3 size. Should be able to be cleaned up to a decent user.

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8 posts in 1651 days

#13 posted 11-12-2013 05:46 PM

ok cool. i didnt even though there different size planes until i found this site!! im used to CNCs and slider saws. i want to create stuff not just assemble it. now i guess ive got to get a # 4

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13754 posts in 4091 days

#14 posted 11-12-2013 05:50 PM

Lots of info on the site for clean-up and/or restoration, sharpening, use, etc. Holler if you need any help.

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