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Anybody got Makita 2040 parts laying around?

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Forum topic by recconore posted 11-11-2013 04:02 PM 777 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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recconore

13 posts in 414 days


11-11-2013 04:02 PM

Topic tags/keywords: makita 2040 planer

Hey everybody.

Its my first post, and here I am asking for stuff. Well, I can’t really get any projects going since my planer is about to break again..

Long story short, I need a new main frame for my 2040. I bought it a couple months ago, it worked great for a minute, then it started to stall mid-board. Upon closer inspection I noticed that one of the power feeder-rollers was out of wack. Then I noticed that one of the dry ‘bearings’ inside the guide was all jammed up on that roller.

I replaced the bearing, and was making a final inspection when i finally realized why things had gone so wrong:

Basically, the black thing you see is the guide, with a dry bearing inside it, that keeps the power feeder/roller in place. What you should see is this:

Somehow, the previous owner managed to break Makita’s cast main frame. (They forgot to mention that to me, naturally).

So, anybody got a parts 2040 taking up space? I don’t expect to find one very fast, so if you do happen to have one, please PM even if you are reading this like 6 years from now. I would also love to hear any inventive “solutions”.

Thanks!

P.S. Along with the 2040, I bought one of the Makita wet stone sharpening wheels, which lo and behold, also has a strange issue, if anyone wants to talk about that ;)


8 replies so far

View ZacD's profile

ZacD

34 posts in 513 days


#1 posted 11-12-2013 07:28 PM

So it looks like the bushing (dry bearing) is still protected by the spring loaded bushing guide, and the issue is the entire piece falls loose? How was the spring loaded guide originally attached? Is this the infeed or outfeed roller?

I’d have to see a few more pictures I think to make sure, but might be able to fix it with some really good epoxy, so long as the bottom plate still attaches fine to keep the bushing in place.

View mantwi's profile

mantwi

312 posts in 650 days


#2 posted 11-12-2013 08:01 PM

I own a 2030N and love it. It’s got a high pitched whine that’s deafening but it really does a fine job planing and jointing lumber, smooth as silk. I had to have the feed rollers resurfaced so I’m familiar with the casting that’s broken. My question is how does the retainer for the square bearing block attach to the casting? Since mine are ok I didn’t bother to examine how it’s affixed to the main body of the planer. If it’s a mechanical fastener perhaps it’s loose and allowing some play which is binding up the bearing block. You might want to drop the roller out to check the bearing block for damage. It’s a steel cube with a hole milled slightly off center that accepts the shaft of the feed roller. Pay attention to the orientation of the hole, it will only operate properly if you reinstall it correctly, as I recall the thinnest wall goes down. This is critical and if it’s worn out or misaligned can lead to the costly replacement of the feed roller. They cost over $240.00 each. If the roller shafts are in good condition you can have them recovered by Western Roller for $175.00 for the pair. I doubt that the retainer for this bearing block was poured into the casting, it’s probably an insert. Find how it’s attached and you should be able to solve the problem. If you don’t have a manual here’s where to download a pdf for free.
http://www.makita.com/en-us/assets/images/products/2040/owners_manuals/2040.pdf
You can google parts outlets for this planer but I don’t think you will locate the main casting as a replacement part on any planer let alone one that has been out of production for so long. Search methods of welding or brazing techniques for different alloys and maybe you will find a way to fabricate the missing piece of the casting. The pressure on the bearing is mainly upward so the missing chunk just holds it in alignment. You should let others know that the lines are not a piece of wire or spring in the photo, they are to indicate the problem area. Best of luck, it’s a great machine and worth fixing.

View MrUnix's profile

MrUnix

668 posts in 953 days


#3 posted 11-13-2013 02:35 AM

From the pictures, it looks like there is still enough there to hold the bearing in place. If that is the case, you might be fine just like it is as long as you keep an eye on the bearing and keep it lubed. That part of the housing is just there to keep the bearing from lateral (side to side) movement while still allowing up/down travel. As long as there is part of the housing remaining, it should hold it in place. If not, you might be able to build it up enough with JB weld or similar, or even welding on a small tab where the broken piece was.

Cheers,
Brad

-- Brad in FL - To be old and wise, you must first be young and stupid

View recconore's profile

recconore

13 posts in 414 days


#4 posted 11-13-2013 06:36 AM

Thanks for the replies.

To be a little more clear, the bearing block/bushing (cube with a hole) was destroyed, and I replaced it. What you see in the goofy picture is the new one, just after I put everything back together.

The power-rollers are driven by a chain off of the cutterhead. The sprockets are on the ends of the shafts of the rollers; a lateral force is created by the chain system that essentially wants to pull the three sprockets together, and, I think, the missing piece of the frame is what resists this force. Like if you could only tighten one side of a bike wheel.

I haven’t tried to run any boards yet, but I suspect that sooner or later (probably sooner, given the lumber I plan to make this poor girl cut), the forces on the roller (its the outfeed) will push it out of alignment, destroying the new bearing block just like the old one. Then I’ll do the replacement job again, faster but with less hope.

It could be, however, that the roller was set far enough out of alignment by the previous owner that the bearing, as makita calls it, was being worn only for that reason, and that the broken frame is just a coincidence…I’m a bit too much of a skeptic to put much faith in that, time will tell.

Certainly I will be running the risk of damaging the roller as well, but I just won’t tolerate a machine around that doesn’t work at_all.

I don’t have the missing piece, and the idea of making something to fit and then successfully epoxying it seems farfetched to say the least. (Not that I have a better idea.) It would have to be near-perfect, since the whole assembly with the spring and bearing block needs to be adjustable and removable and held firmly in position. In other words, ZacD, the spring-loaded guide assembly still attaches normally and stays in place, but a (probably) crucial piece of the frame that keeps the guide in position under stress is broken off.

Now, do any of you by chance use the 9820, the wet wheel sharpener? Cuz I got a problem with mine… :)

View BobinWNC's profile

BobinWNC

6 posts in 403 days


#5 posted 11-19-2013 10:23 PM

I just purchased a Makita 2040 with a burned out motor. I’m weighing my options: restore it or part it out. Do you still need this casting? I’m in NC.

View recconore's profile

recconore

13 posts in 414 days


#6 posted 11-20-2013 03:23 AM

Hi Bob. Yes, I am interested in getting a new main frame for my 2040. Seems like it might cost quite a bit to ship from NC to OR, but if you wanted to quote me a price, I’d be happy to consider it.

As of now, my planer is working okay, so I am going to keep running boards until the bearing breaks again.

What kind of shape is the rest of your machine in? Seems like if its not a total rust bucket, you should fix it up! The 2040 is a phenomenal planer, and hard to come by.

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BobinWNC

6 posts in 403 days


#7 posted 11-20-2013 05:26 AM

I haven’t even looked at the rollers yet, but from all of the reading I’ve done about this model, and noting that it is from 1984, I would guess they will need resurfacing (new urethane). Add in over $200. to rebuild the motor, and I think I’m leaning towards selling it as parts to people who need them to keep better machines running. I have a 12” DeWalt planer (decent but short knife life and light cutting only) and a 20” Northstate (like Jet circa 1997 – OK but not great). I’d really love to say goodbye to them both and get a beefy Rockwell or Oliver from the 70s. Maybe someday. I’ll try to figure out a weight and shipping cost and get back to you on that Makita 2040 main frame via private message. Might take several days.

View BobinWNC's profile

BobinWNC

6 posts in 403 days


#8 posted 12-12-2013 11:54 PM

recconore -
I sent you a personal message, but it was the first time I’ve tried that, so maybe it didn’t get through. I have the main casting off of the Makita 2040, and photos ready to send to you. Please check and see if there is a personal message waiting for you. This casting isn’t that heavy, so shipping shouldn’t be terrible.
The yellow feed rollers turned out to be in really good condition, too. One shaft has a little galling on the short end, but the dry bearing block still fits it well. It could be turned down slightly and a bronze bushing installed if 100% shaft to dry bearing contact is desired. But as i said – the yellow urethane rollers look really good. Bob

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