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How to cut a perfect elongated hole?

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 284 days ago 1066 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

3375 posts in 1138 days


284 days ago

I need help on how to go about cutting a perfect elongated hole in a 5/8” thick piece without tear out on the back side, I need it 1 3/8” long by 1/2” wide, rounded on each end.

Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


14 replies so far

View RockyTopScott's profile

RockyTopScott

1131 posts in 2104 days


#1 posted 284 days ago

Drill the ends, then drill out the middle a bit and chisel out the middle to finish.

-- “When you want to help people, you tell them the truth. When you want to help yourself, you tell them what they want to hear.” ― Thomas Sowell

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 663 days


#2 posted 284 days ago

Do you mean you need to hollow out an oval shape in a 5/8” thick piece of wood?
You can tape or clamp a thin piece of wood on the back to prevent blowout.
Then just get a decent 1/2” spiral up-cutting bit in the router, plunge in, route over, lift up, done.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3375 posts in 1138 days


#3 posted 284 days ago

Yea Rocky, that is what I was thinking, using a fostner bit on the ends but wasn’t sure for the center, I had a scroll saw in mind as well.

I’ve been asked several times now from customers about phone docking in my valet boxes, I need to start including this feature on the back wall of my boxes.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3375 posts in 1138 days


#4 posted 284 days ago

ah ok Joe, I could use the router table with stop blocks?

What if I used a fostner to drill the ends then the middle with the 1/2” up spiral bit don’t think I would need stop block then.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View RockyTopScott's profile

RockyTopScott

1131 posts in 2104 days


#5 posted 284 days ago

If you use a knife to mark the oblong Blackie, you should have a guide for the chisel to start. I learned the hard way.

-- “When you want to help people, you tell them the truth. When you want to help yourself, you tell them what they want to hear.” ― Thomas Sowell

View CharlieM1958's profile

CharlieM1958

15684 posts in 2843 days


#6 posted 284 days ago

If you have a drill press, just use a forstner bit, attach a backer board to the workpiece, and set up a fence. Make your two end cuts first, then slide along the fence, making multiple cuts to hollow out the middle.

-- Charlie M. "Woodworking - patience = firewood"

View GOOD LUCK TO ALL's profile

GOOD LUCK TO ALL

418 posts in 353 days


#7 posted 284 days ago

I would just use the router table and lower the work pc over the bit.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3375 posts in 1138 days


#8 posted 284 days ago

Ok I just did it on a scrap piece, I first drew out the cut path using the drill press and 1/2” forstner bit I punched out the starting hole I then took it over to the router table lined the fence up placed the work piece down over the 1/2” up spiral bit and it went as smooth as butter clean and quick.

Charlie, I like your method also.

Thanks everyone I just needed that simple push to get me started :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

4886 posts in 1468 days


#9 posted 284 days ago

Randy,

using a 1/2 inch non brad point smooth tip drill bit can also reduce tear out. Hardness or brittleness of the wood is also an issue.

What I learned from Charles Neal is setting the start and stop blocks on your router table and use a practice piece of same material. Slowly, with piece against the fence, lower the material onto the router bit, then go from stop to stop. He makes it look easy! LOL! Sounds as if you already have a solution.

good luck.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3375 posts in 1138 days


#10 posted 284 days ago

Thanks Thomas, yea I’ve done it many times when cutting kerfs for the bottom in my box joint boxes, only I don’t go all the way through :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View a1Jim's profile

a1Jim

112010 posts in 2202 days


#11 posted 283 days ago

View distrbd's profile

distrbd

1057 posts in 1072 days


#12 posted 283 days ago

@a1jim,Need to get a few of those bits now,does it ever end?lol.

-- Ken from Ontario

View Tooch's profile

Tooch

592 posts in 501 days


#13 posted 283 days ago

put a backer board to prevent blowout, then spindle sander to get it perfectly smooth.

If you’re going to be including this feature a lot, it might be a good idea to create a template you can use with a Flush cut router bit, then you can just mount the template on your work piece and be done very quickly. Rockler sells the bits fairly cheap:

http://www.rockler.com/pattern-flush-trim-router-bit

they also have them in 1/4 ” shanks and with the bearing on top or bottom, depending on your preference.

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

View Tooch's profile

Tooch

592 posts in 501 days


#14 posted 283 days ago

wait, nevermind… I just re-read your post and finally got what you’re trying to do. I don’t think a pattern bit is needed, just a couple stop blocks on the table would suffice.

-- "Well, the world needs ditch-diggers too..." - Judge Smails

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