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Ridgid planer blade question--Update

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Forum topic by Sandra posted 11-02-2013 12:17 AM 1505 views 0 times favorited 29 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


11-02-2013 12:17 AM

Well, it appears that the blades of my 13” planer either need to be replaced or at the very least flipped. There’s a good nick in one of them which would account for the gauging the last time I ran a board through.

Being the instruction reader that I am, I set about using the supplied hex wrench to loosen the screws that hold the blades in place. “Loosen, but do not remove….” No problem until the third screw. It wouldn’t budge, so I put a bit of muscle behind it and it started to strip. I gave it a shot of PB blaster to loosen it up and still no dice.

So….. I have a screw that won’t budge and is now essentially stripped on the cutter head.

Any suggestions?? (Other than buying a DeWalt)

It’s registered with Ridgid, so if need be I’ll call them.

Thanks,
Sandra *UPDATE
The screw extractor set I bought for 14$ at Canadian Tire worked fabulously on the bolt, and I thought the battle was over…. However when I got to the third blade, it had TWO seized bolts. I tried using the extractor on those and the heads of the bolts broke off completely, leaving the shafts in the hole.

So I’ve contacted Ridgid to find the nearest service centre and ask how to go about getting the planer serviced.

I like the Ridgid products I have, and the warranty is appealing. It looks like I’ll be putting it to the test.

Stay tuned….

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.


29 replies so far

View Joe Weaver's profile

Joe Weaver

509 posts in 3152 days


#1 posted 11-02-2013 12:27 AM

I had that problem, thou the screw was not totally rounded. I have some old auto wrench’s that fit a lot better. was able to change the blade

-- Joe, Ga

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


#2 posted 11-02-2013 12:28 AM

Thanks Joe, I’ll try a different wrench.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View RogerInColorado's profile

RogerInColorado

321 posts in 1421 days


#3 posted 11-02-2013 12:33 AM

Calling Ridgid is an excellent first step. If they don’t offer a solution, go get “the Grabber” screw extractor set. Others may offer options more attractive to you, but any attempts need to include some version of a penetrating substance on the screw and giving it lots of time to soak in. Might even include applying heat to the screw via a soldering iron for example.

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


#4 posted 11-02-2013 12:36 AM

Thanks Roger. I own several Ridgid tools and have never had to call. This may be an interesting test.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


#5 posted 11-02-2013 12:59 AM

Tried another wrench, no dice. Will leave it overnight to see if the PB blaster helps.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

22040 posts in 1804 days


#6 posted 11-02-2013 01:02 AM

Historically they send cheap wrenches with the units. Trying a good one could help.

Also, that’s when I call it bad names and threaten it with physical violence. Makes me feel better anyway.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Monte Pittman's profile

Monte Pittman

22040 posts in 1804 days


#7 posted 11-02-2013 01:05 AM

If you have a dremel tool, you can take the cutter and cut a straight slot in the top of the screw that you can use a flat blade screwdriver to loosen.

-- Mother Nature created it, I just assemble it.

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


#8 posted 11-02-2013 01:11 AM

Ahhhhhh Monte, I do have a Dremel! Great idea. (The cursing didn’t work, I tried it….)

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View patron's profile

patron

13538 posts in 2807 days


#9 posted 11-02-2013 01:13 AM

tap it with a hammer too
after the PB
it can help shock the rust or stress tightening on them

i have gotten a smaller wrench and filed the edges
to fit the best ‘face’ of the head too
or a different socket (metric or sae)
and tap it gently down on them
then use the appropriate ratchet for it

then replace with some good ones
not the same cheap ones

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


#10 posted 11-02-2013 01:18 AM

Thanks David,

I made the mistake of thinking that the one they sent with the planer would be the ‘right’ one to use. Evidently not. Live and learn.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

14940 posts in 2156 days


#11 posted 11-02-2013 01:29 AM

Sandra, I had the same problem with the same planer. Here’s the cure: throw the wrench away that came with it. Then get the correctly sized METRIC driver. Put the driver in the top of the screw and SMACK it with a hammer (you won’t hurt it). Then it should back out. The wrench it came with is soft and mine seemed just sl. undersized.

OK, I went out to the shop and checked mine. You need a 4mm hex driver.

Send me a pm if you don’t get em out this way as there is a plan B

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Sandra's profile

Sandra

6984 posts in 1541 days


#12 posted 11-02-2013 01:35 AM

Thanks Andy. Don’t know that I have a 4mm, but it’s a good excuse to go to HD. First thing in the am, I will be tackling this.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View tefinn's profile

tefinn

1222 posts in 1903 days


#13 posted 11-02-2013 01:39 AM

Sandra – This is not an uncommon problem when changing planer knives, especially for the first time. David’s got it right on. Rapping each screw with a hammer helps release some of the tension on the screws. Just don’t hit them too hard or it might damage the top of the screw. I got a good set of T-handle wrenches to help with getting a good bite and leverage on them when I take mine out.

As far as getting out the one that’s stripped, try what’s already been suggested. If that doesn’t work you may have to drill it out. A lot of times you’ll only need to drill off the head and the threaded end will twist right out.

-- Tom Finnigan - Measures? We don't need no stinking measures! - Hmm, maybe thats why my project pieces don't fit.

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7707 posts in 2309 days


#14 posted 11-02-2013 02:12 AM

I’ve used a propane torch to heat and then let cool, usually before anning muscle but the suggestions here are spot on.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Beaver_Lumber's profile

Beaver_Lumber

5 posts in 1765 days


#15 posted 11-02-2013 02:23 AM

Got the same problem with my Ridgid R4330 planer when I flipped the blade for the first time. Out of the 21 screws holding the knives in place, I had to “persuade” 3 of these in such manner that they were unusable after “persuassion”. I used a screw extractor to get those out. I went to the nearest Ridgid service center and bought like 10 of these just in case for the next time. But before putting the scres back in place, I went to an auto part store and bought some anti-seize. I applied a liberal coat of this on each screw and then put them back in. After some use, I did the test to see if the screws would come out easier and they did. The problem behind this is that the cutting head is made of aluminium while the screws are made of steel. They kind of fuse together with the heat, the vibrations and repeated impacts they absorb over time. The problem is quite well documented on the web and many Ridgid and other planers brands owners, including the DeWalt DW735, have been facing this problem…

-- Patrick - A beaver is like a woodworker because it needs to have wood between its paws

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