LumberJocks

Jet JWTS-10 score. Setup tips?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by Paul Iglehart posted 272 days ago 608 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Paul Iglehart's profile

Paul Iglehart

5 posts in 274 days


272 days ago

Just wanted to share my new table saw with everyone. Got it for a steal at $200. All that’s wrong with it is the bent legs as far as I know.

Any setup tips? The guy I bought it from said I should sand the top w/ 220 or finer grit sandpaper and put wax on the top. I was also planning on getting a new blade for it any suggestions?

-- The Devils in the Details


8 replies so far

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

241 posts in 729 days


#1 posted 272 days ago

Nice deal. I’d just start with WD40 and one of those green scrub pads on the top. You shouldn’t need sand paper unless its really rusty (which I can’t tell from the photos).

View toolie's profile

toolie

1724 posts in 1232 days


#2 posted 272 days ago

fairly average saw for a fair price. at least it’s a left tilt, unlike a lot of the older jet saws. looks to be pretty much an entry level saw (stamped steel wings, no t-square fence) and if the locking handle on the fence is as far down as it appears to be in the pic, it probably needs to be adjusted as it shouldn’t engage that far down. i’d remove the saw from the leg stand, disassemble the leg stand and straighten out the bent legs. with the right blade, it’ll probably do whatever needs doing in your hobbyist shop. BTW, where’s the splitter/blade guard assembly or the riving knife?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5372 posts in 1979 days


#3 posted 272 days ago

Looks like a Jet Workshop hybrid style contractor saw with an inboard motor…..708100 IIRC. A light sanding and wax is a good idea, as is a good blade. Good alignment and a good blade should help optimize it. Here’s a list of current blade bargains if you don’t want to spend for top shelf.

Tips for Picking Blades

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1237 days


#4 posted 272 days ago

I’d prolly just remove the legs/stand and make a new one.
Also, it might be the picture, but the left table extension looks kinda quirky to me. It appears that the extension sits considerably higher than the table (see first pic). If so, that’ll need to be addressed.
Otherwise, nice saw. It should serve you well.
A good scrubbing with scotchbrite/mineral spirits and a coat of Johnson’s Paste Wax should get the cast iron top in good shape.
Any of the Freud blades in the $40 neighborhood should get the job done.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5372 posts in 1979 days


#5 posted 272 days ago

Tedstor – I think what you’re seeing on the left extension is an optical illusion possibly caused by the left miter slot and perhaps the proximity to the tie down strap.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Tedstor's profile

Tedstor

1369 posts in 1237 days


#6 posted 272 days ago

I hope you’re right.

View Paul Iglehart's profile

Paul Iglehart

5 posts in 274 days


#7 posted 272 days ago

Thanks for the replies. Ill probably take off the legs and repair them, I was a steel fabricator / welder for 8 years so this shouldn’t be a problem.

Toolie, the saw only came with a miter gauge. I guess I’ll have to find a replacement riving knife and blade guard.

Tedsor, the table and wings are pretty much flush where they meet the table from what I can tell just by looking at it.

I was going to follow the wood whisperers tips for setting up a table saw and maybe eventually do a fence system out of extruded aluminum like Hutch’s design. I’ve been busy tearing down a old craftsman 4” jointer I picked up for $40 that I’m going to use for edge jointing so I haven’t had time to do any set-up yet. I now have the problem of 8” boards that may need to be flattened (I haven’t checked them yet but I purchased them 13/16” S2S) If I need to flatten them I was thinking about using the trick of hot gluing them down to a already flat board and ruining them through a 12” planer.

-- The Devils in the Details

View jonah's profile

jonah

440 posts in 1903 days


#8 posted 271 days ago

I’ve done the hot glue-to-mdf trick before and it works fine.

You can also pretty easily build an edge jointing “sled” for your table saw. Basically you build an open-sided crosscut sled with only one runner. Include a couple of those red-handled push down clamps (I get them at harbor freight but Rockler/Woodcraft sells them as well). Clamp the rough lumber to the sled, run it through the saw (you are obviously limited in terms of how thick a board you can do by the maximum blade height), then remove it from the sled, cut the other side with the rip fence, and you have two parallel, straight edges.

Then you run them through the planer to flatten the top and bottom. It doesn’t guarantee that the faces will be perpendicular to the edges, but it’s always been close enough and has never been a problem for me.

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase