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2K views 9 replies 9 participants last post by  maplerock 
#1 · (Edited by Moderator)
I have had way too many close calls lately. I really do try to be careful… and I've had table saws for years. I have become a little gun shy lately due to some flying wood. The most recent occurred as I I was cutting a piece of very lightweight 3/16 plywood and a small piece kicked back. My fault I'm sure… but when it happened my hand landed on the table. Not right near the blade, but close enough to make me aware that it could happen. My underwear may or may not have been soiled. :)

So… I need a splitter for sure and I think I want a blade guard. I've researched the forums and found some suggestions, but I want to find one that will work with the Delta Unisaw 36-953.

I bought and tried the Biesemeyer 78-431 T-Square Anti-Kickback Snap-In Spreader… it did not really match up perfectly with the mounting holes in my saw so I returned it. The wood was getting hung up on the wings occasionally anyway. I don't want to worry about whether I can push wood through my saw.

Please recommend a guard that I can live with and a splitter that has worked too. I love woodworking but I love my fingers more. I also don't want wooden shards piercing my liver or intestines. I look forward to hearing from you guys. I know many of you don't use a guard. I sure would be upset to hear about a serious accident to any of you. I also hope you all have first aid kits very handy to your woodworking.

Thank you. If anyone has a source for a good antikickback/blade guard system I would really appreciate it.

Jerry
 
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#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
Three simple things that can prevent kickbacks are…
1. Only run freshly jointed / straight edged lumber across the TS. Since you were using plywood, this was probably not a factor this time.
2. Use a featherboard. I use a Ridgid magnetic featherboard and it is so easy to set up, I have no excuse not to use it.
3. Try Freud blades with anti-kickback features. Modern tooth geometry really makes a difference.

I am assuming that your fence is setup correctly. Adding splitters, riving knives, or guards can only help. However with the above safety precautions, I have not had a kickback since using an old TS in shop class more than 20 years ago.
 
#4 ·
When ever pushing woods no matter what or thickness hard or ply, I always use a push block and have never had any kickback when using them, my tablesaw is setup without the splitter, riving knife and guard.
 
#6 ·
I was going to recommend that you try the snap in spreader that you mentioned as I have a similar one on my right tilt unisaw and it works great when I use it.

Kick backs usually happen when you don't push the piece between the blade and fence all the way past the spinning blade or if you are not in COMPLETE control of that piece. Also, if you're moving pieces of wood around on the table saw while the blade is spinning down.

Lately I've been using a crosscut sled on my table saw for small pieces. Some of the cuts I make in this manner I would never try on a table saw without the crosscut sled.

Keep safe.
 
#8 ·
Working in the shop is always "dangerous".. Safety should always be 1st priority. Just my opinion. I had a boo-boo earlier this year and part of my finger caught the blade…...........not fun at all. I was very lucky. Like I always say: "work/play safe, keep makin dust"
 
#9 ·
Well firstly, whatever happened to the blade guard that came with the saw?
Why not use that for starters…
In my case, I NEVER NEVER use my saw without the blade guard in place unless making a non-through cut. As for push sticks and feather boards, I use them as much as I can.
If you are cutting many small pieces, search for a jig that holds wood while making the small piece cuts.
Sorry no recommendations on splitters.
 
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