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how to make legs/back for armoire

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Forum topic by shelly_b posted 299 days ago 1013 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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shelly_b

841 posts in 742 days


299 days ago

I am making this armoire for someone I work with. It is going to be solid ambrosia maple. My question is about the legs. Do I do legs on the back too? If so, that would mean I am putting a “face frame” on the back also? I am thinking that would be the only way to get the legs on the back too. That is my plan anyway unless someone can give me a better idea lol. I have the sides glued up and legs cut out on them. Thanks:)
http://www.furniturefromthebarn.com/cmsAdmin/uploads/Wenger-Armoire_002.jpg


10 replies so far

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woodsmithshop

1114 posts in 2170 days


#1 posted 299 days ago

yes , you do need legs on the back, they just don’t need to be as elaborate as the front. the legs make it sit on an uneven floor better than if you had a solid piece all the way across the back bottom, blocks screwed into the bottom would work, it does not have to be the full height.
hope this helps.

-- Smitty!!!

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casual1carpenter

353 posts in 1100 days


#2 posted 299 days ago

Shelly, from the pic you linked I would assume a Rail and Stile with your favorite, loose tenon, mortice and tenon, biscuit, dowel or kreg screw, choice of joinery. If rail and stile is combined with a panel glue up or a panel comprised of individual floating pieces I think you would have better luck with expansion and contraction of the solid maple. Just a thought, you might consider.

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AlanBienlein

141 posts in 1299 days


#3 posted 299 days ago

Here is a smaller version of what you want to make. There is no face frame on the back. It’s not needed!

A pic of it being assembled.

Pic from the back. It’s recessed to allow it to sit closer to the wall if it’s in front of an outlet.

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AlanBienlein

141 posts in 1299 days


#4 posted 299 days ago

Here is a pic using a template to cut the legs on the stiles. The template is reversible so your not cutting against the grain which will cause tear out.

I did mortise and tenon on mine using my pantorouter.

The panels were set into 1/4” dado’s I cut on the router table.

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shelly_b

841 posts in 742 days


#5 posted 299 days ago

Thanks guys! That helps alot. The back will be shiplapped 1/2in boards. That is what’s causing my doubts. I really want the inside to have a smooth look, so I don’t want the “rear face frame” to show through on the inside, which would mean I would put the shiplap boards on, then put the face frame on. I am using all solid maple. I have never made something this large out of solid wood, so it is changing my design a bit. I guess my main question should have been are the feet necessary for structure or aesthetic purposes. Alan, can you tell from looking(once it is in it’s final resting place) that it doesn’t have the feet on back? I would think not. The pictures help a ton…I should have done that too since I am probably confusing everyone, but I am at work lol.

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shelly_b

841 posts in 742 days


#6 posted 299 days ago

Oh, and the sides are solid panels, no rails and stiles. I was given a picture so I am trying to copy the look completely.

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kdc68

1956 posts in 901 days


#7 posted 299 days ago

I don’t have the best example, but you can take cues from this bracket foot detail I copied and pasted here. A simple glue block with a cleat would serve as a support for your rear feet. The “money” side is from the front and the sides, so a simple block would work for the backside of the cabinet. The block would attach to the decorative side of your feet and to the underside of the cabinet bottom… Ship lap is a great choice as it will allow expansion and contraction with the solid wood back…. Hope this helps

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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AlanBienlein

141 posts in 1299 days


#8 posted 298 days ago

No you can’t tell that there are no feet on the back once it’s in place.

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shelly_b

841 posts in 742 days


#9 posted 298 days ago

Well I just realized that when I cut the legs on the side panels I cut them both 3/4in less in width planning on adding that with the face frame and back leg…so I can either make the front legs smaller too, or add legs on back. Would it make since to put the shiplap panels in the back then add the stiles? Or should I cut a rabbet in the rear stiles then put the panels in?

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kdc68

1956 posts in 901 days


#10 posted 298 days ago

Rabbet in the rear stiles

-- Measure "at least" twice and cut once

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