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making notches in 2x6 with festool tracksaw

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Forum topic by fiddlebanshee posted 10-19-2013 02:46 PM 929 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


10-19-2013 02:46 PM

I have to make about 120 notches in 60 8 ft long 2×6 lumber to provide a frame for the insulation in my new polebuilding. The notches go around the poles and the 2×6 will be proud of the poles by 1.5 inch to be flush with the headers up top to eventually attach the osb to. So the material to be removed is 2”x2 1/8” from each end of the board.

So I’ve been contemplating how to set this up using my festool TS75. I have the mtf table and tracks in different sizes. I am wondering if there is a stop that I can attach to the track that makes the saw stop at an exact point. Or should I start a plungecut on the inside corner? (somehow I don’t think this would be good).

Any tips would be appreciated so that I can have a setup that is repeatable and fast.

-- As if I needed another hobby!


17 replies so far

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Loren

7739 posts in 2338 days


#1 posted 10-19-2013 03:17 PM

I would generally make a cross grain cut and knock off
the rest with a hammer or a chisel. Gang the 2×6s
together on edge with a clamp, lay your guide across
and cut a dozen or more at a time.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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a1Jim

112326 posts in 2267 days


#2 posted 10-19-2013 03:27 PM

2×6s are 1 1/2 ” so won’t they stand proud of the pole with out notching ? Usually perlins are just nailed or bolted to the outside of the building right on top of the poles. If notching is necessary most pole barn builders will use a chain saw.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#3 posted 10-19-2013 03:29 PM

Ok, I hadn’t thought of putting them together on edge and making one continuous cut 2” deep. Duh, seems so simple when you say it. I may do this actually in two passes of 1” so that I don’t get any kickback. I may also install that new blade that I got recently. The TS75 has a 2 3/4” depth of cut so that should not be a problem.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#4 posted 10-19-2013 03:30 PM

A1Jim, No they are going to be installed horizontally in between the poles for the insulation to lay on on the inside of the building. Like bookshelves.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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bbc557ci

543 posts in 764 days


#5 posted 10-19-2013 03:36 PM

What Loren said. Be faster/easier to if you have access to a radial arm saw.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#6 posted 10-19-2013 03:41 PM

No RAS here, but I totally see now how I can make this fast and safe with the Festool.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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a1Jim

112326 posts in 2267 days


#7 posted 10-19-2013 03:42 PM

Perlins are horizontal. I hope it all comes together great for you.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#8 posted 10-19-2013 03:48 PM

Yes but perlins are at the outside of the poles and have the metal attached to them. This is going to be at the inside instead of traditional stud framing. Here’s a picture of what I intend to do (as instructed by the builder).

Here’s a picture of the inside of the garage as is now.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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a1Jim

112326 posts in 2267 days


#9 posted 10-19-2013 04:08 PM

As a contractor of 25 years in the north west I see and build lots of pole barns ,I’ve never seen anyone anyone notch their poles before usally if folks want to insulate & finish the walls the just frame in between the poles,it seems to me that notching the way you intend to will seriously weaken your building for wind load.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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bbc557ci

543 posts in 764 days


#10 posted 10-19-2013 04:10 PM

The 26×36 with 12 foot ceiling attached garage I just added is also of pole barn construction, and not insulated, yet (too broke now!!). Plan is to insulate when funds are again available, so we added wall studs 16” OC between the poles. I did that as insulating between the verticals would be little easier.

-- Bill, central NY...no where near the "big apple"

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#11 posted 10-19-2013 04:14 PM

I am not notching the poles, I am notching the 2×6s that go in between the poles.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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a1Jim

112326 posts in 2267 days


#12 posted 10-19-2013 04:28 PM

Ok Sorry I missed that point.
typically a carpenter will stack a number of 2×6s together on edge set there saw to the depth they want and make several repeated cuts (leaving aprox,1/4 wide strips) until they have covered the area they want and then knock out the little strips with a hammer,afterwords cleaning the notch up with the claw of the hammer or a chisel.

-- http://artisticwoodstudio.com Custom furniture

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#13 posted 10-19-2013 04:37 PM

Oh, yes, this picture is very helpful. I hadn’t quite wrapped my head around the next step but this would certainly work.

Thanks everyone for their ideas. I’m very much a pre-planning type of gal, so I need to visualize in my head exactly what I need to do, then execution isn’t such a big deal. It’s lack of experience that is bugging me. So thanks for giving me the benefit of all your years of experience.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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hobby1

289 posts in 987 days


#14 posted 10-19-2013 04:56 PM

May I ask a question,
I don’t know how wide the poles are, but if they are around 6 inches, couldn’t you just add a 2×6 vertically to all the poles to bring it out to the 1 1/2” thickness needed to meet the top headers?

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fiddlebanshee

139 posts in 1635 days


#15 posted 10-19-2013 05:08 PM

Hobby,
Good point. But the poles are not standard size, I’d have to rip stock, which I’m not sure is easier.

-- As if I needed another hobby!

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