HELP - solid wood compass rose lazy susan

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Forum topic by GerardNewbie posted 10-14-2013 10:49 AM 1440 views 0 times favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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1 post in 1933 days

10-14-2013 10:49 AM

Topic tags/keywords: help lazy susan warping round radial joining

Hi – I really hope someone more experienced than I can help this complete newbie. I was very ambitious and for only my 3rd woodworking challenge decided to build a large compass rose lazy susan for my mom. The wood I chose is hard (sugar) maple for the background, and mahogany and American walnut for the pointers (i.e. the “star”).
In a moment of brain failure I thoroughly messed up my first attempt by putting a brass banding around the edge radius of the lazy susan, and very predictably and as I should have known would happen the wood movement caused deflection in the lazy susan because the brass off-course didn’t accommodate the wood movement.
I have now scrapped this first attempt, and am re-doing the entire project, but want to make very sure this 2nd attempt is going to be successful.
My question is as follows:
- I am definitely not making the same mistake of using any metals in the construction, but am still concerned about warping due to wood movement’
- I am edge joining all the different components of the lazy susan which means I am largely avoiding any cross-jointing of wood, with the end grain on the outside of the lazy susan (that is the wood grain will run radially from the centre of the lazy san to the outside of the circl). Given the cutting angles the grain doesn’t always run perfectly straight,
- In my understanding this method of joining and aligning the components should mean that the majority of wood movement due to changing moisture levels would be across the grain – i.e. all the components should expand more or less equally in a circle.
- Is this assumptions correct or should I change my construction method to avoid any future warping?

3 replies so far

View oldnovice's profile


7380 posts in 3605 days

#1 posted 10-29-2013 08:53 PM

You can try an inlay star element as opposed to different pieces to get your design done (if I understand you concept completely)!

The star only has straight lines and should be easy to cut as opposed to some ornate object.

That’s my 2ยข worth!

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View alohafromberkeley's profile


257 posts in 2642 days

#2 posted 10-30-2013 03:51 AM

Inlay into solid wood circle would be my suggestion- cakman does excellent compass inlays in classes section. Otherwise someone else with more experience than I do will have to chime in. Wood movement just ain’t my forte. Sorry, if I’m misunderstanding what you need.

-- "After a year of doing general farmwork, it was quite clear to me that chickens and I were not compatible"-George Nakashima

View Nate Meadows's profile

Nate Meadows

1132 posts in 2444 days

#3 posted 10-30-2013 04:51 AM

I would not discount the metal if it is something you really like. One just has to learn to meld the two things (wood and metal) together so they dance in harmony. If you start with 1/2 9 ply baltic birch plywood, resaw or plane your wood selection down to 5/16ths or less then use a moisture cure urethane (I use Bostiks VaporLok), epoxy or even a polyurethane glue to laminate them down, the wood movement will be very, very minimal. (So small it will be difficult to see with the naked eye, as long as the correct glue is used, dry wood is selected and water free glue is used.)

I would over cut the top laminates so that once they are on and dry, you can return to trim them with a good compression or down spiral router bit, following the circle of the plywood below. Once it is trimmed. Roll out your brass and epoxy it on. Once try, sand, buff and finish.

I hope this helps.


-- "With a little bit of faith, and some imagination, you can build anything!" Nate

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