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De waxed shellac- END RESULT? PHOTO

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Forum topic by Ray posted 288 days ago 1003 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ray

81 posts in 600 days


288 days ago

I read on Rex Mill. com that rosewood totes and knobs look best if de waxed shellac is used. Can this be purchased in a ready to use formulation? None of the cans of shellac that showed up during my search were specified as de waxed.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks

-- Creating less fire wood every day


18 replies so far

View TDSpade's profile

TDSpade

68 posts in 1013 days


#1 posted 288 days ago

Zinsser sealcoat is a dewaxed shellac in a 2 pound cut.

-- For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1642 posts in 1090 days


#2 posted 288 days ago

I wonder why they would say that, I haven’t worked with a lot of rosewood but I’ve put shellac on a lot of other stuff, I don’t think I can see the difference (at least the difference caused by the wax).

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View patron's profile (online now)

patron

12955 posts in 1938 days


#3 posted 288 days ago

zinsser is right
i tried with a brush
but it is not to good
to much sanding
the spray can works good

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View mummykicks's profile

mummykicks

56 posts in 399 days


#4 posted 287 days ago

The clear shellac spray is dewaxed. I didn’t used to think it was, but it states 100% wax free on the label.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 635 days


#5 posted 287 days ago

You can dewax it yourself, all it takes is some waiting time.

Here's one guy's instructions.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10539 posts in 1287 days


#6 posted 287 days ago

I have used both regular and dewaxed shellac and honestly can’t see ANY difference. FYI – I like to wipe mine on.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Ray's profile

Ray

81 posts in 600 days


#7 posted 287 days ago

I just got back from Lowe’s . The cans labeled regular Shellac have a warning- “don’t put Poly over this”.

They didn’t have a quart sized dewaxed shellac, so the clerk marked down the price on a gallon of dewaxed – from $33 to $14.00- the same price as quart. I won’t live long enough to use all of it….

-- Creating less fire wood every day

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2439 posts in 948 days


#8 posted 287 days ago

Using de-waxed shellac is only critical if you are going to put something over it like poly.

-- Bondo Gaposis

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jmartel

1586 posts in 747 days


#9 posted 287 days ago

Will lacquer be ok over waxed shellac or no?

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3289 posts in 1110 days


#10 posted 287 days ago

Andy, The difference that I know of between waxed and non waxed is that another finish can go over the top of a non waxed version, if it’s waxed then you can’t go over the top with anything.

To answer your question Jmartel, from what I understand is no lacquer will not go over it but non waxed it will.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View woodenwarrior's profile

woodenwarrior

131 posts in 792 days


#11 posted 287 days ago

You can always buy dewaxed dry flake shellac and mix up your own batches. Woodcraft sells bags of flake shellac for around $30. Sounds like a lot but one bag will last you a LONG time and it ends up being cheaper than buying cans of Zinsser. I like it because its the only way I’ve found garnet shellac (I like to use it to warm up the color of the A&C pieces I make). Its other benefit is that you can make any amount that you want in any cut (denatured alcohol/flake ratio) you desire.

-- Do or do not...there is no try - Master Yoda

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1642 posts in 1090 days


#12 posted 287 days ago

Topcoating waxed versus waxy is something that only applies to anything “poly”, and some waterbornes. It’s the polyurethane resins that cause the adhesion problems. Urethane resins inhibit adhesion, and on top of the waxy shellac you can get separation. If you top coat the shellac with anything else (including non-poly varnishes) you’re good to go; the exception being some waterbornes. Stick with dewaxed for them and the poly varnishes. Lacquer has some pretty aggressive solvents, I would test your particular combination and see how it comes out, but it will adhere to either shellac.

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View Don W's profile (online now)

Don W

14612 posts in 1165 days


#13 posted 287 days ago

personally I like oil/wax or just wax better for the planes I use. It has a softer look and feel. Shellac give it a shiny almost fake look. But its about personal taste.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Ray's profile

Ray

81 posts in 600 days


#14 posted 285 days ago

I finished the repair and used wax over shellac. I was surprised how dark it was. The white flakes are only visible in the well lit enlargement. I am not sure what caused them. The break was about 1/3 up from the base. You can see it here, but virtually invisible under normal lighting and at 100% size.

I may start over and use wax over Tung oil. I am guessing that Tung oil is not as easy to remove as shellac, so I will do a little more reading before I make that move.

All comments appreciated- this is my first attempt at tote repair.

Thanks for the help

-- Creating less fire wood every day

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1174 posts in 1781 days


#15 posted 273 days ago

Your tote looks good to me… the most important thing is how it feels in use. Some people don’t like the feel of poly-covered tool handles (me included), so shellac and wax might make a good combo for things like this. I just used shellac for the first time a few days ago for a rosewood tote and knob. I’ll try to post pics when they’re done, but so far I like it. I’m using the amber flakes from woodcraft.

-- Allen, Colorado

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