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De waxed shellac- END RESULT? PHOTO

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Forum topic by Ray posted 10-09-2013 04:54 AM 1054 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Ray

82 posts in 658 days


10-09-2013 04:54 AM

I read on Rex Mill. com that rosewood totes and knobs look best if de waxed shellac is used. Can this be purchased in a ready to use formulation? None of the cans of shellac that showed up during my search were specified as de waxed.

Any recommendations would be appreciated.

Thanks

-- Creating less fire wood every day


18 replies so far

View TDSpade's profile

TDSpade

71 posts in 1071 days


#1 posted 10-09-2013 05:39 AM

Zinsser sealcoat is a dewaxed shellac in a 2 pound cut.

-- For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1790 posts in 1148 days


#2 posted 10-09-2013 11:57 AM

I wonder why they would say that, I haven’t worked with a lot of rosewood but I’ve put shellac on a lot of other stuff, I don’t think I can see the difference (at least the difference caused by the wax).

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

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patron

13034 posts in 1996 days


#3 posted 10-09-2013 12:55 PM

zinsser is right
i tried with a brush
but it is not to good
to much sanding
the spray can works good

-- david - only thru kindness can this world be whole . If we don't succeed we run the risk of failure. Dan Quayle

View mummykicks's profile

mummykicks

56 posts in 458 days


#4 posted 10-09-2013 07:34 PM

The clear shellac spray is dewaxed. I didn’t used to think it was, but it states 100% wax free on the label.

View JustJoe's profile

JustJoe

1554 posts in 693 days


#5 posted 10-09-2013 08:40 PM

You can dewax it yourself, all it takes is some waiting time.

Here's one guy's instructions.

-- This Ad Space For Sale! Your Ad Here! Reach a targeted audience! Affordable Rates, easy financing! Contact an ad represenative today at JustJoe's Advertising Consortium.

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10874 posts in 1345 days


#6 posted 10-10-2013 01:56 AM

I have used both regular and dewaxed shellac and honestly can’t see ANY difference. FYI – I like to wipe mine on.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Ray's profile

Ray

82 posts in 658 days


#7 posted 10-10-2013 02:45 AM

I just got back from Lowe’s . The cans labeled regular Shellac have a warning- “don’t put Poly over this”.

They didn’t have a quart sized dewaxed shellac, so the clerk marked down the price on a gallon of dewaxed – from $33 to $14.00- the same price as quart. I won’t live long enough to use all of it….

-- Creating less fire wood every day

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2528 posts in 1006 days


#8 posted 10-10-2013 03:27 AM

Using de-waxed shellac is only critical if you are going to put something over it like poly.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View jmartel's profile

jmartel

2041 posts in 805 days


#9 posted 10-10-2013 03:58 AM

Will lacquer be ok over waxed shellac or no?

-- End grain is like a belly button. Yes, I know you have one. No, I don't want to see it.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3392 posts in 1168 days


#10 posted 10-10-2013 09:44 AM

Andy, The difference that I know of between waxed and non waxed is that another finish can go over the top of a non waxed version, if it’s waxed then you can’t go over the top with anything.

To answer your question Jmartel, from what I understand is no lacquer will not go over it but non waxed it will.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View woodenwarrior's profile

woodenwarrior

131 posts in 850 days


#11 posted 10-10-2013 10:59 AM

You can always buy dewaxed dry flake shellac and mix up your own batches. Woodcraft sells bags of flake shellac for around $30. Sounds like a lot but one bag will last you a LONG time and it ends up being cheaper than buying cans of Zinsser. I like it because its the only way I’ve found garnet shellac (I like to use it to warm up the color of the A&C pieces I make). Its other benefit is that you can make any amount that you want in any cut (denatured alcohol/flake ratio) you desire.

-- Do or do not...there is no try - Master Yoda

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1790 posts in 1148 days


#12 posted 10-10-2013 11:32 AM

Topcoating waxed versus waxy is something that only applies to anything “poly”, and some waterbornes. It’s the polyurethane resins that cause the adhesion problems. Urethane resins inhibit adhesion, and on top of the waxy shellac you can get separation. If you top coat the shellac with anything else (including non-poly varnishes) you’re good to go; the exception being some waterbornes. Stick with dewaxed for them and the poly varnishes. Lacquer has some pretty aggressive solvents, I would test your particular combination and see how it comes out, but it will adhere to either shellac.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, we sent 'em to Washington.

View Don W's profile

Don W

15030 posts in 1223 days


#13 posted 10-10-2013 12:48 PM

personally I like oil/wax or just wax better for the planes I use. It has a softer look and feel. Shellac give it a shiny almost fake look. But its about personal taste.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.com

View Ray's profile

Ray

82 posts in 658 days


#14 posted 10-12-2013 03:15 AM

I finished the repair and used wax over shellac. I was surprised how dark it was. The white flakes are only visible in the well lit enlargement. I am not sure what caused them. The break was about 1/3 up from the base. You can see it here, but virtually invisible under normal lighting and at 100% size.

I may start over and use wax over Tung oil. I am guessing that Tung oil is not as easy to remove as shellac, so I will do a little more reading before I make that move.

All comments appreciated- this is my first attempt at tote repair.

Thanks for the help

-- Creating less fire wood every day

View bobasaurus's profile

bobasaurus

1259 posts in 1839 days


#15 posted 10-24-2013 04:23 AM

Your tote looks good to me… the most important thing is how it feels in use. Some people don’t like the feel of poly-covered tool handles (me included), so shellac and wax might make a good combo for things like this. I just used shellac for the first time a few days ago for a rosewood tote and knob. I’ll try to post pics when they’re done, but so far I like it. I’m using the amber flakes from woodcraft.

-- Allen, Colorado

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