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Norton 1000 to 8000 grit too far of a jump?

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Forum topic by bennaco posted 11-25-2008 05:02 AM 2454 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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bennaco

3 posts in 2160 days


11-25-2008 05:02 AM

Topic tags/keywords: waterstones norton 1000 8000

I have a norton 1000/8000 grit stone, and have found that no matter how much i polish on the 8000 side, i’m not getting the scratches out from the 1000 grit. am i just being picky, is my technique not spot on, or is it really true that 1000 to 8000 is too far to jump in grit?


4 replies so far

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Loogie

99 posts in 2470 days


#1 posted 11-25-2008 05:42 AM

I just took a sharpening class at WIA in Berea and Deneb from Lie Nielsen was an advocate of the 1000 to 8000 grit move. The key is that you use the 1000 for the primary bevel and use the 8000 for the secondary/micro bevel only. If you do that then you will be exposing all new metal with the 8000 grit stone. Then you just rub the back on the 8000 grit stone to remove the burr and you’re good to go. Shaves hairs off of my hand no problem. FWIW Lie Nielsen recommends that the micro-bevel be between 30-32 degrees for a 25 degree primary bevel. Let me know how it works for you.

-- Mark

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bennaco

3 posts in 2160 days


#2 posted 11-25-2008 04:53 PM

Mark, thank you so much for your input! It’s good to hear that we have the blessings of Lie Nielsen…

i have had trouble getting that perfect mirror finish on the back of the blade, and all i can think of is that i need to keep honing the back on the 8000 grit and be patient… don’t get me wrong, it is quite shiny, but i can see little scratches here and there. but i assume that you have gotten a mirror finish on your tools by using that method?

Thanks again for the help

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dsb1829

367 posts in 2317 days


#3 posted 11-25-2008 08:01 PM

I picked up a 1000/8000 stone a couple of months back. While you can jump the grits by the LN method I found that it is a bit much of a jump by standard practice. I say that for a couple of reasons. One, you are going to need to spend quite a bit of time on the 8000 in order to remove the coarse marks thus causing it to go out of flatness faster than if you used it just for honing a defined edge. Second, IME the lower grit stones dish fairly fast. Unless you pay close attention your 1000 will dish while in use, then it takes even longer on the 8000g and you again run the risk of dishing it. I think you are right in noticing that you are only polishing the peaks and not working out all the scratches.

It is much less wear and tear to have an intermediate grit. I have a 4000g King. If I take a couple dozen swipes on it the blade I am working will take on a dull mirror finish. Then it will only take a few swipes on the 8000g to get a beautiful mirror finish. After that roll the burr a few times on the 8000g until it is barely perceptible, reducing strokes on each flip.

-- Doug, woodworking in Alabama

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Loren

7739 posts in 2338 days


#4 posted 11-25-2008 08:42 PM

I usually go from grinder/diamond stone to 1000/1200 grit waterstone
to 6000 grit waterstone. I have an 8000 grit stone too but don’t use it
as often as the 6000.

I usually don’t use a micro-bevel. It’s a bad habit in my opinion – because
it’s not good for laminated blades. The main issue is the back of the blade.
If you can’t get the back polished to 6-8000 you’ll have trouble with
getting a scary edge.

I cheat. I have a Makita wet wheel grinder with a 1000 grit wheel. Off
of that machine a plane iron cuts acceptably for most work. Really I only
need to go to 6000 if I want to make finishing cuts or do end grain.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

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