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Thin Kerf or full kerf blade???

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Forum topic by Hrolfr posted 11-25-2008 03:34 AM 3030 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Hrolfr

174 posts in 3567 days


11-25-2008 03:34 AM

This past weekend my wife gave me an early Christmas gift. She took me to woodcraft and bought me a new Jet 10in Proshop Table saw. I have listed the saws specs:

Exclusive 30” ProShop fence system with T-square design

Integrated arbor lock allows for quick, safe and easy blade changes

Heavy-duty cast iron table with T-style miter slot provides large flat work surface and increased cross cut capacity

Enclosed cabinet with exclusive leg stand design for easy assembly

4” dust port for increased dust collection efficiency

Rigid, left tilting cast iron trunnion

Powder coated paint for a long-lasting, chip-resistant finish

Steel extension wings for added workpiece support

Arbor Diameter: 5/8”

Arbor Speed: 3600 RPM

Blade Diameter: 10”

Dust Collection Minimum CFM Required: 350

Dust Port Diameter : 4” OD

Maximum Cross Cut: 21”

Maximum Depth of Cut: 3-1/8”

Maximum Depth of Cut at 45 Degrees: 2-1/8”

Maximum Diameter of Dado: 8”

Maximum Rip Left of Blade: 12”

Maximum Rip Right of Blade: 30”

Maximum Width of Dado: 13/16”

Miter Gauge Type: Deluxe

Motor: 1-3/4 HP, 1 PH, 17/9 Amps, 115/230V

Prewired 115V

Overall Dimensions: 39” H x 35” W x 60” L

Table Height (in.) 34-3/4

Table in Front of Saw Blade at Maximum Depth of Cut (in.) 10-1/2

Table Size with Standard Extension (L x W/in.) 27×44

Table Size without Extension (L x W/in.) 27×20

Table Size without Wings (L x W/in.) 27×20

So the question is should I use a thin kerf or full kerf blade with this saw???

Also what is everyones favorite blade???

-- Hrolfr


17 replies so far

View Al Killian's profile

Al Killian

273 posts in 3654 days


#1 posted 11-25-2008 03:45 AM

I perffer full kerf. The blade will flex less and cut truer in thicker wood. The blade I like the most is Tenryu. I picked up one last week and it has been flawless. Smooth crisp cuts and best of all no burning when ripping white oak.

-- Owner of custom millwork shop

View lew's profile

lew

11939 posts in 3657 days


#2 posted 11-25-2008 03:57 AM

My saw has a similar sized motor. I find, for hard wood, the thin kerf blade cause less loading. This is for straight cuts (blade 90 degrees to the table). As Al pointed out, however, these blades will tend to flex more. Some of the flex can be reduced by using blade stabilizers.

Lew

-- Lew- Time traveler. Purveyor of the Universe's finest custom rolling pins.

View GaryK's profile

GaryK

10262 posts in 3889 days


#3 posted 11-25-2008 03:59 AM

I use which ever is sharper. Not that big of a deal.

-- Gary - Never pass up the opportunity to make a mistake look like you planned it that way - Tyler, TX

View Scott Bryan's profile

Scott Bryan

27251 posts in 3723 days


#4 posted 11-25-2008 04:43 AM

I have a 1.5 hp Craftsman and use only full kerf blades. It tends to slow down if I am cutting 8/4 stock or bevel cuts but, as Gary said, if the blade is sharp then I don’t have any problem. But when the blade starts getting dull it does tend to burn and the feed rate has to go down to make the cut. With this size motor you should not have any problem with either size blade.

One note I would add is get a good quality blade. The ones that come with the saw generally are not top quality blades.

-- Challenges are what make life interesting; overcoming them is what makes life meaningful- Joshua Marine

View mski's profile

mski

439 posts in 3881 days


#5 posted 11-25-2008 03:12 PM

I have a 1 1/2 hp Craftsman and use Forrest WWII, thin kerf, cuts much better than the full kerf with this low power saw, I have had no flexing problems even when resawing 8/4×6 hard maple.

-- MARK IN BOB, So. CAL

View RAH's profile

RAH

414 posts in 3778 days


#6 posted 11-25-2008 03:36 PM

Have your wife call mine please. I don’t think mine has bought my Christmas present yet.

-- Ron Central, CA

View Festool4's profile

Festool4

78 posts in 3680 days


#7 posted 11-25-2008 04:34 PM

I prefer full kerf Forest WWII blades. I would only recommend thin kerf if you saw is 1 1/2 hp or less. Also, make sure that your splitter matches your blade.

-- Festool4

View lazyfiremaninTN's profile

lazyfiremaninTN

528 posts in 3854 days


#8 posted 11-25-2008 06:13 PM

Is your wife single? Does she have a sister? LOL j/k.

I think you will just have to try both and see what works for you and your saw.

-- Adrian ..... The 11th Commandment...."Thou Shalt Not Buy A Wobble Dado"

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 3776 days


#9 posted 11-25-2008 07:42 PM

I would suggest thin kerf under 1½ HP and your choice above that. If you go thin kerf and are concerned about vibration, you can get a blade stiffener.

Once you decide, you’ll probably want all of your blades to be the same thickness. On right tilt saws, it doesn’t matter if blades are different thicknesses because the right side of the blade is fixed by the arbor. But since your saw is left-tilt, the left side of your blade is fixed, so the right side will be in a different position depending on thickness of blade, so the distance between the blade and the fence (i.e. cut width) will be different. This can be aggravating.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com/woodworking -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

View Don Newton's profile

Don Newton

714 posts in 3520 days


#10 posted 11-25-2008 07:47 PM

Hey Peter…..good point about the arbor tilt, I never thought about it. I ahve a Delta cabinet saw that is right tilt and I hate it.

-- Don, Pittsburgh

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 3776 days


#11 posted 11-25-2008 07:52 PM

I’m a left-tilt guy all the way, but I have thin and full kerf blades, and it drives me nuts. All my future blade purchases will be full kerf.

-- http://www.peteroxley.com/woodworking -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

View Festool4's profile

Festool4

78 posts in 3680 days


#12 posted 11-25-2008 07:57 PM

So I take it that you are changing the splitter with the blade – they must match if they are going to work. If you are not using a splitter, get one! You can get an aftermarket splitter for around 15 dollars.

In the US, there is a tablesaw related accident every 9 minutes.

Woodworking is best enjoyed when you have all of your original fingers.

Frank

-- Festool4

View mski's profile

mski

439 posts in 3881 days


#13 posted 11-26-2008 02:55 AM

Get the Micro Jig steel splitter , cannot say enough about how goo they are!!!!

-- MARK IN BOB, So. CAL

View Greg3G's profile

Greg3G

815 posts in 3987 days


#14 posted 11-26-2008 03:24 AM

It really doesn’t make a difference. Just remember to zero out your rip fence if you change sizes.

-- Greg - Charles Town, WV

View Peter Oxley's profile

Peter Oxley

1426 posts in 3776 days


#15 posted 11-26-2008 03:56 AM

Greg, I guess you’re right, but changing the zero on my saw is a hassle – it moves all over when you tighten the screws – and I often change blades a half dozen times a day. It would still be much easier (and less chance of introducing error) to leave the scale alone and have a single thickness of blade!

-- http://www.peteroxley.com/woodworking -- http://north40studios.etsy.com --

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