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Zinser Shellac Amber Match...

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Forum topic by NorCalQ posted 10-02-2013 02:05 AM 958 views 1 time favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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NorCalQ

17 posts in 519 days


10-02-2013 02:05 AM

I just got some Zinser Shellac Finish and Sealer with Amber tint. It gives me the perfect color match that I need for some cabinets. I wanted to use a waterbourne poly over it, but I guess I can’t, because the shellac has a wax in it. So, I’m wondering if anyone knows of a match for the amber tint shellac, but in something that I can cover with the waterbourne poly?
I did a test and the poly seemed to work fine over the shellac, but I guess in time, it will…well…fail somehow…right?


10 replies so far

View Alster's profile

Alster

89 posts in 1960 days


#1 posted 10-02-2013 02:16 AM

It won’t necessarily fail. I used oil-based poly over Zinsser amber shellac on a coffee table that gets heavy abuse, and it’s fine, years later. I’ve heard this story from others, too—that poly covers fine.

If you’re worried, you can do two things: 1) Let your shellac sit in the can for a few days. The wax will settle to the bottom. Decant off the top part for your own use, and it will be fine. 2) Cover your cabinets with amber shellac, and then follow up with a coat of dewaxed Sealcoat. There will be no problem with the Sealcoat adhering to the amber, and no problem with poly adhering to the Sealcoat.

View higtron's profile

higtron

200 posts in 1423 days


#2 posted 10-02-2013 02:44 AM

You can put a couple layers of bullseye seal coat over the amber shellac it’s a clear dewaxed shellac lightly sand than put your waterbased poly on top. Man I love that water based poly it goes on so smooth and, clean ups a breeze.

-- If I cut it too short I can scab a piece on, but if it's too long what do I do?

View NorCalQ's profile

NorCalQ

17 posts in 519 days


#3 posted 10-02-2013 03:15 AM

Thanks so much for the help. I too, love the GF waterbourne poly. So, Shellac, then Seal Coat, the waterbourne poly and all should be fine…thanks so much. Does the Seal Coat have any color associated with it? Never used the stuff.

View higtron's profile

higtron

200 posts in 1423 days


#4 posted 10-02-2013 03:47 AM

No It’s clear you could use trans tint dye http://www.amazon.com/TransTint-6001-Dyes-Honey-Amber/dp/B001DSZ4MM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1380685484&sr=8-2&keywords=transtint+dyes and color the shellac there is a honey amber trans tint dye maybe you could make your own amber dewaxed shellac

-- If I cut it too short I can scab a piece on, but if it's too long what do I do?

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2033 posts in 1239 days


#5 posted 10-02-2013 11:04 AM

There is a chance it will fail, as well as a chance it won’t. Putting Seal coat on top of Bullseye may be iffy as well. The Seal coat will actually dissolve and blend with the amber, so you may have wax on the top coat anyway. Doing your own tint might be a more foolproof method, or just roll the dice; there’s a good chance you won’t have any problems.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View shampeon's profile

shampeon

1378 posts in 929 days


#6 posted 10-02-2013 06:07 PM

The SealCoat is a very light blonde, so it will add some tint. A light coat probably won’t dissolve the amber layer much, but if I were you I’d do a couple test panels before deciding on the finishing schedule.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

View Finisherman's profile

Finisherman

210 posts in 595 days


#7 posted 10-02-2013 06:18 PM

Add a little bit of amber coloured trans tint dye to your sealcoat to get the colour that you want. Test your finish on scrap until you’re happy with the colour.

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

907 posts in 856 days


#8 posted 10-02-2013 07:15 PM

If you’re going to mess with tints, just add TransTint amber to the GF product and skip the extra products.

I’d start with a drop of Honey Amber in 4 oz. of the finish. Then a drop in 2 oz. and a drop in 1 oz.

Make a board of your chosen stock with 9 segments separated by shallow kerfs. Sand and prep the board for finishing. Do two coats, one row of three, with each blend, scuffing after the first coat. Leave one square of each with two coats, then add one more coat to one row and two to the other. This will give you the looks of two, three and four coats of three tints. Go from there…

A single coat of SealCoat, cut 50/50 with SLX, on the entire board, will greatly reduce grain raising. Just wipe it on quickly and stop…

View NorCalQ's profile

NorCalQ

17 posts in 519 days


#9 posted 10-03-2013 02:53 AM

Thanks for the responses. Great info here. I called Zinser and they advised that putting on a coat of Seal Coat after the Shellac will work fine for the waterborne poly.
I did go out and get some TransTint Honey Amber and Amber to experiment with. I like the idea of using the waterborne from start to finish. I’m hoping to do one or two coats of tinted poly, then finish up with one or two more coats of clear. Thanks again.

View Finisherman's profile

Finisherman

210 posts in 595 days


#10 posted 10-03-2013 03:57 AM

You’d probably do well to spray the finish, assuming that you have the ability to do so. You’ll be able to get the most even colouring this way. If you’re brushing the finish, make sure to keep the colour weak so that you’re less likely to get streaks in your finish.

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