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Forum topic by squarehippo posted 10-01-2013 04:47 PM 714 views 0 times favorited 7 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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16 posts in 1097 days

10-01-2013 04:47 PM

I’m attempting my first real furniture project and I have a question about making posts. Specifically, I want to make 80” posts that are 2” square. But I only have 5/4 wood. (Soft maple.) The posts will be at each corner of the piece so all sides of each post will be visible. (It’s a bookcase.)

So, after I’ve jointed and glued up the posts to the proper size, do I try to laminate the edges with a thin 2” strip of face grain? Or maybe miter the whole post so that there’s no visible seams?

Any idea will be greatly appreciated!

7 replies so far

View JustJoe's profile


1554 posts in 1128 days

#1 posted 10-01-2013 04:58 PM

If you’ve got a router table with a lift then you can use a bit like this one, rip four piees 80” long and join them together to make one post:

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View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2737 days

#2 posted 10-01-2013 05:04 PM

I would laminate the faces. I think this is easier to set up and
execute than accurate long glue joint miters.


View BArnold's profile


174 posts in 922 days

#3 posted 10-01-2013 05:05 PM

Joe posted one very good way to do what you need. The other way is what you alluded to and the way I’d do it myself. On the sides that show the joint between the two pieces, laminate a thin (1/8” or less) veneer. By the time you break the edges when finish sanding, you won’t see the joint between the veneer and body wood. To keep the post even, reduce the width by the thickness of the veneers.

One factor I’d be concerned about in your design is having a post that long and that dimension might result in warping. I’d cut the pieces oversize, let them stabilize for a couple of days, glue them up and let the glue cure for a day, then do final dimensioning.

-- Bill, Thomasville, GA

View HerbC's profile


1438 posts in 1949 days

#4 posted 10-01-2013 05:06 PM


One option would be to use a Lock Miter Joint Router Bit, such as the one made by MLCS, to make your leg blanks, gluing up four pieces to form a blank that looks like one solid piece of wood. The bit is a “bit” finicky to set up properly, but I’ve heard that the setup jig from Infinity really helps. The nice thing about this method is that you can use pieces that all have the same grain pattern, such as all quarter sawn or all rift sawn, etc.

Good Luck!

Be Careful!


PS: Boy, I must be slow typing. In the time it took me to write my comment three other LJ’s gave you good advice. You’ve got a couple of options, just experiment until you figure out which is best for you.


-- Herb, Florida - Here's why I close most messages with "Be Careful!"

View squarehippo's profile


16 posts in 1097 days

#5 posted 10-01-2013 06:32 PM

Thanks for the quick replies and great advice! Since I don’t have a lock miter bit (yet) I’m going to try cutting some veneer. I’ve never tried to cut eighty inches at 1/8” thick but how hard could it be? :o)


View Loren's profile


7967 posts in 2737 days

#6 posted 10-01-2013 08:10 PM

You can glue it on full thickness and rip it off. Then do the other
side. Then plane to square. Gluing it on at 1/8” thick creates a
situation where you’ll need to mess with cauls. You may still
need to use cauls a few times, but as long the stock is more than
about 3/8” you can probably skip them and get good glue lines.


View squarehippo's profile


16 posts in 1097 days

#7 posted 10-02-2013 01:11 AM

I went back and forth about asking my original question because it seemed so basic – but I’m glad I did. Gluing on a thick board and then ripping it to veneer width is brilliant! (Or at least pretty darn clever.)

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