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(Finishing) Experimenting with a new to me technique, end grain and blotching fix.

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 209 days ago 562 views 0 times favorited 12 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

2981 posts in 1017 days


209 days ago

After posting here on LJ awhile back an issue I was having with lacquer causing tiny crystals to form on some red cedar over a period of time (shelf sitting) Charles Neil chimed in and told me what I needed to do, he mentioned shellac as a sealer first.

I thought about what he said and did some research on shellac and found that using the non waxed version most any other finish will go over the top of it and since it is a sealer I tried it on one my latest projects with a lot of end grain, (not yet posted) I first put a single coat of tung oil with a quick wipe, let it dry, I then came back with a single coat of bulls eye non wax shellac let it dry and it only took two coats of my wipe on poly mix to finish it off with a full cover and no extra coats over the end grain, no soaking in.

I’ll be changing my finishing from now on by adding a coat of shellac to get the ball rolling.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


12 replies so far

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DocSavage45

4376 posts in 1347 days


#1 posted 209 days ago

I’ve know Charles for a number of years now. He is a “finisher” first and woodworker second and he is a pretty fine woodworker. Check out his web sight. Lots of great stuff. Stumpy Nubbs was including a Charles Neil segment for awhile.

I have most of his DVD’s If anyone is interested he built the Townsend Clock as a master woodworking teaching project.

I’m you learned a bunch Randy. Looking forward to your project!

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

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grizzman

6475 posts in 1808 days


#2 posted 209 days ago

thanks randy, its always great to learn the experiences of others, im glad things turned out well…

-- GRIZZMAN ...[''''']

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

10270 posts in 1610 days


#3 posted 209 days ago

That is interesting, Randy. I see you used tung oil first. Why is that? To bring out the grain? Is tung oil clear?
I have heard that as a base coat for wood that is to be buffed and I may have to get some.

thanks, Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!!

View Roger's profile

Roger

13076 posts in 1309 days


#4 posted 208 days ago

Good stuff Randy

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View Randy_ATX's profile

Randy_ATX

643 posts in 947 days


#5 posted 208 days ago

Randy, shouldn’t the shellac go on as the first coat, if it’s purpose in this application is to seal the wood?
Keep us posted with your results.

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

2981 posts in 1017 days


#6 posted 208 days ago

Thanks for the replies all.

Jim, yes that is correct I like the effect it gives and no, tung oil will amber the wood, some refer to it as muddying up the wood, what ever it’s referred as it does make the wood pop, I only use it to change the color then I do a quick wipe with a paper towel after its applied.

Randy you are prob right but I just changed up the order, wasn’t sure if the shellac would keep the oil from penetrating into the wood as I think tung oil does the same thing just not as good as shellac, heck I’m not even sure if I really still even need the tung oil now that I’m using shellac as a sealer?

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Randy_ATX's profile

Randy_ATX

643 posts in 947 days


#7 posted 208 days ago

Section off a peice of scrap wood, put tung on one area, shellac on another. Label it underneath so you can’t see what is what. Give the board a spin after it is dry. See if you can visibly tell a difference and then check if you guessed right on which is which. :-)

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3194 posts in 2465 days


#8 posted 208 days ago

Every once in a while the obvious will prevail. Shellac has been a finish of choice for decades. There are those who will say that there is no need for it, but I will continue to use the de-waxed shellac as a base or finish depending on the project.
It won’t work for highly used surfaces (table tops, etc.), but small projects that are not subject to water, alcohol, etc. will benefit from bug stuff.
Next up my finish chart is real varnish. Note that I didn’t say polycrapithane.
Now, if I finished bowling alleys, that would be a different issue.
Just my eccentric opinion. :)
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

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Blackie_

2981 posts in 1017 days


#9 posted 208 days ago

Bill I am a believer :)

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

773 posts in 598 days


#10 posted 208 days ago

When you put tung oil on the end grain did it darken the end grain more than the long grain? I ask because I used boiled linseed oil on a project recently. Just like stain, the end grain soaked up more oil and was much darker. I was kind of hoping oil wouldn’t do this.

I do have some raw tung oil and if that doesn’t darken end grain it would be handy to know.

Thanks.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

2981 posts in 1017 days


#11 posted 208 days ago

Purrmaster, not that I’ve ever noticed how ever it does soak into the end grain though.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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Purrmaster

773 posts in 598 days


#12 posted 208 days ago

Darn. I’ve even seen shellac darken the end grain. Thanks for the info.

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