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Pinching between fence and blade

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Forum topic by sawedoff posted 338 days ago 518 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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sawedoff

134 posts in 1046 days


338 days ago

I am having issues with my PM66 and my lumber being pinched between the fence and blade. It seems that it is pinching in the back as it comes through the saw. The material tends to come away from the fence and toward the blade as it comes out of the blade. Don’t know whether or not that description makes sense.

I have put a digital micrometer and it is pretty much dead nuts on from the blade to fence at both the front and back of the blade. Should I have a little more distance on the back side of the blade?

Also, this tends to be more of an issue when I am crosscutting.

-- still wet behind the ears.....


9 replies so far

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1008 posts in 912 days


#1 posted 338 days ago

look for a bow in the fence.

try a featherboard holding the wood to the fence right before it gets to the blade

ALSO have a look at your riving knife alignment. Not sure what that even looks like on a PM66, but mine is moveable and removable (for dados and such). A little sawdust will throw off the alignment. If the riving knife is not directly in line with your kerf, it can pull the piece one way or the other.

View CudaDude's profile

CudaDude

107 posts in 934 days


#2 posted 338 days ago

I’m still wet behind the ears too, but from everything I’ve gathered you shouldn’t be crosscutting with the fence.

-- Gary

View rrww's profile

rrww

263 posts in 739 days


#3 posted 337 days ago

A little toe out on the back of the fence won’t hurt. What size lumber are you cross cutting with the fence? For example: you can cut a 12 X 12 square piece of plywood with the fence, but smaller stuff like 1×6’s you should never cross cut with the fence, miter gauge only.

View Loren's profile

Loren

7394 posts in 2274 days


#4 posted 337 days ago

Check your blade for healing. The blade plate may be
warped too.

The easy fix is to set the fence to be open by 1/32” at the
back. This makes it so you can only use the fence on
one side of the blade though.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8476 posts in 2275 days


#5 posted 337 days ago

Is this occurring on all cuts?

if so, it may be alignment issues:
1. check fence to be straight (warped fence could lead the lumber away from it and pinch the lumber between fence and blade).

if not – it is possible that your lumber contains internal stresses that are opening it up during the cut and it expands away from the fence (normal behavior) – towing your fence out will “solve” that. Also, all of this is assuming your lumber is jointed and straight before the cut – otherwise any bow in the lumber could cause it to be pushed away from the fence as well.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3078 posts in 1302 days


#6 posted 337 days ago

Cross cutting problems – check the blade to miter groove for parallel. Then set the fence to the blade. Everything works from the miter gauge groove. Don’t crosscut with the fence unless you have a block clamped to the front edge then clearance behind that. If the cut off piece gets in a bind between the blade and the fence you will …..well let’s say it can come out of there with a lot of gusto.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3321 posts in 1439 days


#7 posted 337 days ago

Joint a fresh edge on your lumber and use a featherboard.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View toolie's profile

toolie

1737 posts in 1255 days


#8 posted 337 days ago

i never set my fence parallel to the blade. i always align the blade to the miter slot i use most and then align the fence to that same miter slot. i do it this way as the one thing on the table top that can’t be adjusted is the miter slot. since i’ve used this process, and the technique in this kickback video, burn marks and pinching are history:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XNfBovGoxGY

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2944 posts in 913 days


#9 posted 337 days ago

Number one, you cross cut with a miter saw, but if you must use a TS use the miter slot, never use a fence on a cross cut unless it’s a pretty hefty slab with a very straight side for the fence. When I have to use a fence for this, I make sure to keep the majority of the wood between the blade and the fence.

That being said, and not knowing your experience level with TS’s, I’d have you do a couple of things first.
One, make sure you have a sharp blade.
Two, if the blade is sharp, then try feeding the wood slower. I’ve seen some people develop bad habits with powertools, one of the most prominent is jamming the wood into the blade. Rather ease it in and let the blade work without pressure. Now some woods like cherry will likely burn if you go slow, but burn marks are easy to sand out.
Also, wax the TS bed, it makes pushing boards easier and less likely to catch on things.
Try that and see if it helps.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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