Pinching between fence and blade

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Forum topic by sawedoff posted 09-18-2013 03:41 PM 1104 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View sawedoff's profile


155 posts in 2595 days

09-18-2013 03:41 PM

I am having issues with my PM66 and my lumber being pinched between the fence and blade. It seems that it is pinching in the back as it comes through the saw. The material tends to come away from the fence and toward the blade as it comes out of the blade. Don’t know whether or not that description makes sense.

I have put a digital micrometer and it is pretty much dead nuts on from the blade to fence at both the front and back of the blade. Should I have a little more distance on the back side of the blade?

Also, this tends to be more of an issue when I am crosscutting.

-- still wet behind the ears.....

9 replies so far

View Charlie's profile


1100 posts in 2461 days

#1 posted 09-18-2013 03:46 PM

look for a bow in the fence.

try a featherboard holding the wood to the fence right before it gets to the blade

ALSO have a look at your riving knife alignment. Not sure what that even looks like on a PM66, but mine is moveable and removable (for dados and such). A little sawdust will throw off the alignment. If the riving knife is not directly in line with your kerf, it can pull the piece one way or the other.

View CudaDude's profile


179 posts in 2483 days

#2 posted 09-18-2013 04:59 PM

I’m still wet behind the ears too, but from everything I’ve gathered you shouldn’t be crosscutting with the fence.

-- Gary

View rrww's profile


263 posts in 2288 days

#3 posted 09-18-2013 08:03 PM

A little toe out on the back of the fence won’t hurt. What size lumber are you cross cutting with the fence? For example: you can cut a 12 X 12 square piece of plywood with the fence, but smaller stuff like 1×6’s you should never cross cut with the fence, miter gauge only.

View Loren's profile


10477 posts in 3822 days

#4 posted 09-18-2013 08:10 PM

Check your blade for healing. The blade plate may be
warped too.

The easy fix is to set the fence to be open by 1/32” at the
back. This makes it so you can only use the fence on
one side of the blade though.

View PurpLev's profile


8541 posts in 3823 days

#5 posted 09-18-2013 08:24 PM

Is this occurring on all cuts?

if so, it may be alignment issues:
1. check fence to be straight (warped fence could lead the lumber away from it and pinch the lumber between fence and blade).

if not – it is possible that your lumber contains internal stresses that are opening it up during the cut and it expands away from the fence (normal behavior) – towing your fence out will “solve” that. Also, all of this is assuming your lumber is jointed and straight before the cut – otherwise any bow in the lumber could cause it to be pushed away from the fence as well.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Grandpa's profile


3261 posts in 2850 days

#6 posted 09-18-2013 08:43 PM

Cross cutting problems – check the blade to miter groove for parallel. Then set the fence to the blade. Everything works from the miter gauge groove. Don’t crosscut with the fence unless you have a block clamped to the front edge then clearance behind that. If the cut off piece gets in a bind between the blade and the fence you will …..well let’s say it can come out of there with a lot of gusto.

View pintodeluxe's profile


5783 posts in 2988 days

#7 posted 09-18-2013 09:13 PM

Joint a fresh edge on your lumber and use a featherboard.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View toolie's profile


2146 posts in 2803 days

#8 posted 09-18-2013 11:25 PM

i never set my fence parallel to the blade. i always align the blade to the miter slot i use most and then align the fence to that same miter slot. i do it this way as the one thing on the table top that can’t be adjusted is the miter slot. since i’ve used this process, and the technique in this kickback video, burn marks and pinching are history:

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View RussellAP's profile


3104 posts in 2461 days

#9 posted 09-19-2013 12:34 AM

Number one, you cross cut with a miter saw, but if you must use a TS use the miter slot, never use a fence on a cross cut unless it’s a pretty hefty slab with a very straight side for the fence. When I have to use a fence for this, I make sure to keep the majority of the wood between the blade and the fence.

That being said, and not knowing your experience level with TS’s, I’d have you do a couple of things first.
One, make sure you have a sharp blade.
Two, if the blade is sharp, then try feeding the wood slower. I’ve seen some people develop bad habits with powertools, one of the most prominent is jamming the wood into the blade. Rather ease it in and let the blade work without pressure. Now some woods like cherry will likely burn if you go slow, but burn marks are easy to sand out.
Also, wax the TS bed, it makes pushing boards easier and less likely to catch on things.
Try that and see if it helps.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

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