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dado blade question

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Forum topic by SCOTSMAN posted 299 days ago 1077 views 0 times favorited 30 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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SCOTSMAN

5235 posts in 2168 days


299 days ago

As I have said many time dado blades for better or worse are frowned upon here in the uk and outlawed by firms using employees altogether. I work alone and can use them prolem is they have more or less to be brought in from good old USA .The arbour sizes you guys use are considerably smaller than we and shorter to disallow the fitting of dados.I have a good size arbour on my ras and it would take them but the dados would have to be enlargened a tricky job to try at home as they have to be cut perrfectly consentriquently or you get wobble and terrible vibration anyone done this please let me know otherwise how much am I looking at to have them professionaly done?? Alistair

-- excuse my typing as I have a form of parkinsons disease


30 replies so far

View ITnerd's profile

ITnerd

261 posts in 1182 days


#1 posted 299 days ago

Alistair, I believe you can order them from Forrest with custom bore sizes for an extra $39 bucks. You have to call them to order a custom bore other than 1” or for Felder machines. Not the cheapest, but of the highest rated sets I know of.

Hope this helps,

-- Chris @ Atlanta - JGM - Occam's razor tells us that when you hear hoofs, think horses not zebras.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7595 posts in 2635 days


#2 posted 299 days ago

There is one very accurate way of Drilling the small hole to make it bigger!

1. Get a sharp BIT that fit’s the desired Larger hole required by your saw blades.
... set it aside… to be used later.

2. Get a BIT that fits your DADO Blades & put it into your Drill Press.

3. Place a DADO blade on the DP table & lower the bit to go through the hole of the blade. DO NOT RAISE THE BIT!

4. Clamp the blade to the table… real good.

5. Raise the bit, remove it, and insert the BIT from step #1.
... DO NOT CHANGE THE ALIGNMENT OF THE DRILL PRESS…
... DO NOT UNCLAMP THE BLADE!

6. Turn on the DP and DRILL the enlarged hole into the DADO blade.

7. Un-Clamp the Dado Blade with an enlarged hole in it…
... Perform this procedure on ALL of your Dado blades that need the larger hole.

This procedure works like a charm… I had to use it to get some blades to fit an Older Larger arbor in TS… Worked GREAT…

Hope this helps you.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

1610 posts in 1076 days


#3 posted 299 days ago

Here in the states, many sharpening services can enlarge the bore. Is it possible on in the UK might be able to do that?

-- I long for the days when Coke was a cola, and a joint was a bad place to be (Merle Haggard)

View mastersus's profile

mastersus

13 posts in 327 days


#4 posted 299 days ago

Are you talking about the arbor raised flange (30mm) if so this should be ignored for the purpose of fitting a dado set, it’s the shaft size (5/8”) that matters. As more than one blade is fitted, along with chippers and spacers, only the first blade could ever be fitted to the arbor hub. What you need is a an altered arbor i.e. one with the 30mm raised flange removed, this will allow fitting of the dado head directly onto the shaft which should be 5/8” unless you have a large commercial one in that shop of yours…Allan

-- AL, frae bonny Scotland

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

5251 posts in 2012 days


#5 posted 299 days ago

When I needed an arbor hole enlarged, I took it to a high end machine shop. They refused to recut my blade because they said the tolerances were too tight for even their most sophisticated machines.
When you are talking about multiple blades in a dado set, any ever so slight, error will be multiplied. And, at the speeds the blades spin, its a disaster waiting to happen.
Chris (ITnerd), has the right idea, IMHO.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View teejk's profile

teejk

1204 posts in 1268 days


#6 posted 299 days ago

I agree with Gene. Enlarging the hole would be a big mistake I think since the blades/chippers need to be in perfect alignment with each other. As for arbor length, even my Delta TS will not accept the outside flange washer on a full 3/4” stack other than maybe a half thread or so. I have no problem leaving it off since the stack of metal is enough with only the arbor nut.

But it does beg the question about UK standards. How big is the arbor??? I lived there and know that your lamp cords look like our drier plugs (something about a fire centuries ago hence overkill on steroids).

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7595 posts in 2635 days


#7 posted 299 days ago

The procedure that I posted will enlarge a HOLE Perfectly!

I have done it… It worked beautifully on three blades…

I increased the size of three blades… from 5/8” to 3/4”... Worked like a charm!

Those that say it will NOT work are wrong… I have done it!

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2699 posts in 1826 days


#8 posted 299 days ago

They sure make it difficult for you guys in the UK. True blades can be modified here, but by the time you have that done and shipping costs, it could become quite expensive. $200 + would be my guess. I have enlarged the holes in saw blades many times, but I have a metal lathe and that makes the job easy.

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

548 posts in 892 days


#9 posted 299 days ago

Having the arbor hole enlarged is no big deal for the pros like Forrest. After they enlarge the holes the have to be re-sharpened and this ensures all the blade line up with each other.

There a whole bunch of guys on the Felder’s owners group that had Forrest enlarge dado blades to fit their 30mm shaper spindles. They (the guys) report excellent results.

Personally I would not try Joe’s method.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

View REO's profile

REO

577 posts in 657 days


#10 posted 299 days ago

I have to agree with Joe. It can be done and there is no multiplication of error lol it would be one to one. if you are off one thousandth it will be off one thousandth. resharpening the blade will get it to be true to the hole but it does nothing to balance the blade. As a rule when a blade is sharpned they do not also balance the blade. Those who feel there is a danger in opening the hole up lets hear why. I to have hod no trouble punching out the centers of many blades for odd arbor sizes. The only dificulty I have had to date is some of the steel that the disk is made of can be work hardned from punching the hole in the first place. This can raise cain with a typical drill bit. Run very slow with good cutting fluid and a drill bit with the flute lip more to the perpendicular than normal. a lathe is a terrific alternative but Joe’s method is a good one. ‘Course I am just a dumb jock.LOL

View Pop's profile

Pop

419 posts in 2529 days


#11 posted 299 days ago

Hi Alistair,

Having sold tools I can tell you the best dado set come from Freud. There are 3 different sets. The low end is called “Pro Dado Set”, Next & what I use is called “Super Dado” and last is the “Dial-A Width Dado”. The Dial-A-Width is NOT a wobble blade. It’s a stack dado with the ability to adjust the width with-in small steps.

Heck, don’t you have a machine shop?

Bill “Pop” Golden

-- One who works with his hands is a laborer, his hands & head A craftsman, his hands, head & heart a artist

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7595 posts in 2635 days


#12 posted 299 days ago

AlaskaGuy
Personally I would not try Joe’s method.

Why? I had a very experienced machinist help me and it went as smooth as clock work!
NO ERRORS No drips… No runs…

.

REO
It can be done and there is no multiplication of error lol it would be one to one.

Thank you for agreeing with me!

Yes, it was done Perfectly… NOTHING off center… It was a Perfect job!

There is more I forgot to mention…

We added a little more support between the Blades and the Table top to protect the blade teeth…

One more very important thing… The bits (doing the cutting) MUST be very Sharp!
One Bit did 2 blades… Had to change bits for the 3rd blade.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View REO's profile

REO

577 posts in 657 days


#13 posted 299 days ago

there is a bit of runout in even the very best of the most expensive gloat worthy blades. this comes from the clearance between the blade center hole and the arbor. in wood work it goes without notice. It might be cool to say that ones saw is +or- .001 from the blade to the miter slot. Why get so excited over this? How much off is too much? For one who wants to brag about the process I guess .001 is too much. For the vast majority .010 would be plenty close.

View Joe Lyddon's profile

Joe Lyddon

7595 posts in 2635 days


#14 posted 299 days ago

Yes, Reo, I knew that…

Thank you.

-- Have Fun! Joe Lyddon - Alta Loma, CA USA - Home: http://www.WoodworkStuff.net ... My Small Gallery: http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?ppuser=1389&cat=500"

View AlaskaGuy's profile

AlaskaGuy

548 posts in 892 days


#15 posted 299 days ago

First of all you left out the part about having very experienced machinist help you.

Second the other guy said he needed to use two drill bit to get the job done. The price of two good quality 3/4drill bits is going to cost as much and the 39 dollars Forrest is going to charge. I don’t have to risk messing up a good saw blade. And, I’d have to sharpen the two drill bits I just bought. This is just something I prefer to have the experts do.

-- Alaskan's for Global warming!

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