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New Ridgid R4512 TS worth returning?

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Forum topic by danoaz posted 09-13-2013 02:21 PM 1016 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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danoaz

164 posts in 821 days


09-13-2013 02:21 PM

Topic tags/keywords: ridgid 4512 table saw table saw miter gauge

I this new Ridgid R4512 Table saw and put it together and now I am wondering if I should return it because of some defects. See the photos. One issue is the chipping of the cast iron edge on the side where the additional metal extension tables come together. The other issue that I think is more problematic is the glide slots for the miter gauge. As you see in the photo the slot is not perfectly flat on the bottom. In some areas these ridges do tapper down to a smooth bottom but that is the exception. I was having problems with the metal miter gauge that came with the saw not sliding smoothly. I ended up grinding the bottom of the miter gauge bar and that seemed to fix the problem because it has the tab on the end that goes into those side slots.
My question is if these things are worth returning because I have to take the whole darn thing some place and I don’t have a truck to do it.
When I go to make jigs for the table saw I really don’t care about those side slots in the glides do I ?
I

depend on you guys – thanks for your help.

-- "Simplicity and repose are the qualities that measure the true value of any work of art." Frank LLoyd Wright


11 replies so far

View toddl1962's profile

toddl1962

29 posts in 580 days


#1 posted 09-13-2013 03:01 PM

I’m happy with my R4512 so far but I didn’t have to grind anything on the miter gauge. I didn’t notice any chipping on mine but I’ll check when I get home. The only thing I use the miter gauge for is 90 degree cuts and i put a really long fence on it so I can use a stop block. I set it for 90 degrees and left it. I built a sled to do accurate 45s and just used hardwood bars. I made some real nice (perfectly square) frames for our bathroom mirrors with my sled. I may make a 90 degree sled but I’ve made several face frames using the miter gauge and they have turned out nice and square.

I set my blade heel using a digital dial caliper. Same with the fence.

If you decide to kep the saw get a better blade and a zero clearance insert.

-- Todd

View crank49's profile

crank49

3421 posts in 1622 days


#2 posted 09-13-2013 03:10 PM

Have you checked the alignment of the blade with the miter slot; before and after blade height changes?
This is very critical and is a documented defect some of these saws have.

I wouldn’t worry about cosmetic defects, just the operational ones.

You could stick some coarse sandpaper on the edge of a 3/4” board and dress the bottom of the miter slot if it bothers you. The bottom has no bearing on the function of the slot as long as it doesn’t interfere with the sliding action of things that ride in the slot. The sides of the slot are what is critical.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View toddl1962's profile

toddl1962

29 posts in 580 days


#3 posted 09-13-2013 03:18 PM

To add, the two things I DON’T like are the table-mounted trunnions and the steel wings. The trunnions aren’t a problem once you get the heel dialed in. The steel wings…well given the price I can live with that.

I had one assembly problem: The bolts holding the rear panel in place were too tight from the factory. The heads stripped. Fortunately I had a screw/bolt extractor so getting them out was not a problem. I had to go buy new ones though but I got socket head instead of button head. I can actually unscrew them by hand if they’re not too tight.

-- Todd

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1228 days


#4 posted 09-13-2013 03:25 PM

Send it back.
IMHO the 4512 should be recalled because of the blade alignment issue, which is likely present in yours.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View Furnitude's profile

Furnitude

339 posts in 2158 days


#5 posted 09-13-2013 03:44 PM

Of course, do what you want. I for one get frustrated when people buy a budget item and expect perfection. They return it, and those costs are passed on to consumers, making things more expensive for everyone. If you wonder why companies are struggling, the issue of perfect expectations for budget costs is one of the (many) culprits. how does chipping paint on an edge affect performance? or anything? many high-end tools have the same problem. Honestly, I don’t mean to be sarcastic, but you have to ask what you bought the saw for. As far as the non-perfect slots, i can’t see how that would affect performance. Now, if the bottom were raised, that would be a problem for jigs and miter gauges. When you make jigs, the rails have a square bottom—and should even have some clearance with the bottom of the slot. And you can adjust the blade alignment. i’ve done it on my R4512. I would suggest you just start using the saw. i think you’ll enjoy it. I’m continually amazed at the accuracy I’m able to achieve with mine.

-- Mitch, http://furnitude.blogspot.com Also blog at http://www.craftsy.com/blog/author/mitch-roberson/

View natenaaron's profile

natenaaron

369 posts in 448 days


#6 posted 09-13-2013 04:12 PM

If it were me I would see if the chipping in the metal would affect the surface of the wood. This is important as a marred surface means more prep work.

if it does not mar the wood’s surface then that shipping would not bother me. The other issue is a safety issue in my mind and you should take it back for that.

View Craftsman70's profile

Craftsman70

241 posts in 776 days


#7 posted 09-13-2013 05:18 PM

I am not sure those two problems are worth the return, but as Crank49 suggested, have you checked for the alignment issue? Raise the blade most of the way up and put a ruler/square in the miter slot and note the distance between the slot and the rear of the blade. Then start to lower the blade and see if it shifts to the right when you lower it.

View toddl1962's profile

toddl1962

29 posts in 580 days


#8 posted 09-13-2013 07:14 PM

I normally rip/crosscut 3/4” stock. However, I have just finished a project where I repurposed wood from shipping skids. The skids were about 2.5” square and made from poplar and red oak. I cut some real nice boards from this so I’m thinking mine does not have an alignment issue. I bought it about 2 months ago. I will check it with my digital dial caliper when I have a chance.

-- Todd

View crank49's profile

crank49

3421 posts in 1622 days


#9 posted 09-13-2013 08:33 PM

The return privilege on the warranty expires in 90 days so if you bought it a couple months ago you don’t need to tarry too long.
After the 90 days is out you have to ship it to a service center; which could cost as much as the saw, depending on where you are.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View toolie's profile

toolie

1759 posts in 1279 days


#10 posted 09-13-2013 08:56 PM

After the 90 days is out you have to ship it to a service center

fortunately now, HDs with tool rental departments are accepting ridgid tools for warranty service. my understanding from a friend who works for the BORG is that they facilitate transferring the tool to an authorized repair center. eliminates having to hunt for an authorized repair center.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5451 posts in 2026 days


#11 posted 09-13-2013 09:12 PM

Does the problem with the miter slots effect how the miter gauge slides and performs? If not, I wouldn’t return it over that. I’d definitely consider returning it if you have the dreaded alignment issue.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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