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Forum topic by amt posted 09-12-2013 08:17 AM 1483 views 1 time favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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amt

32 posts in 368 days


09-12-2013 08:17 AM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw

Hello,

I bought a used Grizzly table saw yesterday, and I had a few questions about it. I am hoping you can help me out:

1) I cannot find a model number on this saw. Can anyone identify which saw this is? Here’s a photo:

I does have a 3 HP 220v motor, and it appears to be made in Taiwan. My best guess is that it is a 1023, but was hoping someone could confirm that.

2) The on/off switch shown in the picture does not work reliably. When pushing the on button, most of the time it will not start. I removed the switch from the saw to get a better look. I noticed if I take the switch and tap it (the whole switch box) on the table top, the saw will start! Pretty scary how this thing starts when you don’t expect it to. So, I think I have to replace this switch: Can I just go with a normal switch instead of the magnetic style switch?

3) I noticed the motor is not that well secured, and the saw does have some vibration when running. I looked at how the motor was mounted, and I noticed the bolt secures the motor on only one side. Here’s a photo of the outside on the bolt:

And a photo of the inside:

Should there be a bolt on the inside for that mount?

Thanks for your help!

-- -Andrew


6 replies so far

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5451 posts in 2025 days


#1 posted 09-12-2013 09:23 AM

Looks like an older 1023 to me. It seems logical to me that both sides of the motor should be secured. You can get better access by removing the top…be sure to note the location of any shims between the top and cabinet. Grizzly’s tech center would be a good source for technical questions like the motor mount and switch. I’d hate to take a guess and be wrong on those!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View swoper's profile

swoper

59 posts in 1874 days


#2 posted 09-12-2013 10:53 AM

The motor needs that nut replaced at least , the switch is a magnetic switch (turns off saw when breaker trips so saw won’t start when breaker is reset) and yes you can use a normal switch. My Delta motor fried yesterday and I am looking at this saw as a replacement. If I were you I would clean up the inside of the cabinet and give it a good look over, don’t forget to blow out the motor if possible I didn’t and now I have a big purchase to make.

-- Harry, Jackson Mi

View mantwi's profile

mantwi

312 posts in 546 days


#3 posted 09-12-2013 12:00 PM

I have the same saw, mine is a 1993 G1023. This is a solid machine. If you look on the cabinet just below the bottom of the table on the left side you should find a sticker with the serial number on it. I replaced the arbor bearings and had to put a new motor on it. It cost $318.00 plus about $27.00 shipping, part #P1023056A. The magnetic switch was bad (playing around with it is how the motor got burned out) and after consulting with a Grizzly Tech guy I opted for a disconnect type switch from the borg, cost between 20.00 and 30.00 depending on what you get. It works great. My saw only has one bolt on the motor mount also and it causes no issues. The bolt is really just to lock the belt tension, the motor is supported by the steel rod on the left with the 2 cotter pins in it. I had some arbor play, it moved in and out about a 64th of an inch. I solved that problem by tightly wrapping fine string in the gap and putting liquid super glue on it, instant washer. There’s no friction on it so it should hold up nicely. The vibration is probably due to the arbor bearings being worn and since it’s not too difficult a task I strongly advise replacing them while the machine is torn down for restoration. I got mine at a local bearing supply house under $30.00 ask for two 6203’s. Replace the fence, it’s a bad design. The casting on the rail mount is too short and it will not be square over the full length of the rail. I got a good deal on a Vega Pro 40 fence on Amazon, it’s a really good fence and cost less than half the price of it’s equals. You’ll also need to cut a hole in the cabinet for DC, I made mine 6” and a readily available 4” collection hook up covers the excess hole until I can covert my DC system to six inch. The hole is just above the cabinet floor on the back and works well. Also built a motor cover to aid in DC it’s just a plywood box with slots where the motor hangs for ventilation and I hung it from a couple of screws. I really like my saw once I got it dialed in it’s been like a rock, great power. I use to have a Jet Exacta left tilt cabinet saw and in use there is little difference. Both are powerful and cut accurately. I repainted mine while the top was off, a coat of forest green industrial Rustoleum really made a huge difference. Grizzly stocks parts for this saw and my motor came in 5 days. The tech I spoke with was very helpful and didn’t try to sell he just made suggestions. You should be quite pleased with this saw when you get it back together and will be intimately familiar with it, that’s a good thing. links to two videos that show how to replace the arbor bearings :http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DM6CWHc9-kU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PwCQT2UVs9U

View amt's profile

amt

32 posts in 368 days


#4 posted 09-12-2013 01:24 PM

Thanks for all the replies! I think I will take your advice and replace the arbor bearings. The saw actually did not come with a fence, and I was fine with that, as I want to get a better one anyway. I am thinking about going with the Incra LS-TS system and combining it with a router table extension. I also have some link belts ordered, so maybe that can also help a little with the vibrations.

-- -Andrew

View unbob's profile

unbob

388 posts in 553 days


#5 posted 09-12-2013 04:43 PM

Myself, I wouldn’t use link belts on multi groove pulleys, some do though. A single link belt does work wonders on some contractors saws. Thoughts on multi groove pulleys and belts on cabinet saws.
Three belts is not really needed to transmit 3 or even 5hp. The reason for the extra belt is to cushion vibration. and can be run looser for vibration problem.
The manual for the Puni-saw states not to let the weight of the motor tension the belts. If that is done, they will be too tight when warmed up, they do get warm. When belts get warm, they get tighter, due to expansion in cross section is more then expansion in length.
There is a fine point of good belt tension on saws, too tight, the machine will rumble-too loose the belts will slap. Both conditions cause vibration.
I found it worthwhile to find that sweet spot in belt adjustment between too loose and too tight, and adjusting when the belts have warmed up.
Its stated by belt manufacturers that modern belts do not need to be matched like the old days. This is not exactly true.
Goodyear states that the shelf life of their very good Matchmaker line of belts have a shelf life of 7yrs. I found the hard way, a “new” belt that is a few years old will not match up to a fresh belt. I use that brand of belt on one metal cutting machine that uses outside rollers for belt tension, those belts have a smooth back side.
Its best to get belts from the same lot code printed on the back.
I currently use Gates Vextra on belt driven cabinet saws, with good results. Cheaper belts, are lumpy in my experience.
Just my opinion.

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mantwi

312 posts in 546 days


#6 posted 09-13-2013 12:42 AM

Unbob: I’m going to follow your advice on belt adjustment, it just makes sense. My saw will pass the nickle test now but I’d like to get every bit of performance out of it I can and your suggestion will be simple enough to try. I’ll also keep the Gates belts in mind, every little bit counts.

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