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Forum topic by firefighterontheside posted 09-11-2013 09:37 PM 948 views 0 times favorited 27 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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firefighterontheside

5786 posts in 600 days


09-11-2013 09:37 PM

I would like to get a new router that I can dedicate to my table. I have looked at the Milwaukee and Triton 3 1/4 routers which have the feature that you can raise and lower from above the table. I’m leaning toward the Triton, but I’m concerned about the 1/4 collect reducer. Most of my bits are 1/4”. Is the reducer designed for frequent use or not. My rail and stile bits are 1/2 and I would like to get raised panel cutters. I read some of the reviews on here and on amazon. It seems that some of the problems addressed in LJ reviews may have been addressed with new models. Does anyone know if this is true? It seems that either way I will have to lock the spindle from below. Thanks in advance for any answers to my questions.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.


27 replies so far

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2710 posts in 1321 days


#1 posted 09-11-2013 11:30 PM

They’re both very good routers; get whichever is cheaper. If you don’t like it, you can return it.
I’d probably be leaning towards the milwaukee.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View laketrout36's profile

laketrout36

153 posts in 770 days


#2 posted 09-12-2013 12:47 AM

For the projects I do the Bosch 1617EVSPK meet my demands and the fixed base has an accessible slot to raise and lower the router from above the table. You’ll need to drill one hole through your insert and use a T-wrench to do the adjustment.

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3549 posts in 1557 days


#3 posted 09-12-2013 12:58 AM

Freud and Triton are the only two I know of with full above-the-table adjustability. With the Freud FT1700VCE you can lock and unlock the spindle, raise/lower bits, and change bits all from the topside.
Some routers that advertise above the table adjustment only allow height adjustment above the table. A common problem with routers is the collet doesn’t extend far enough above the table for topside bit changes.
You are forced to remove the router plate insert, and use a bent wrench.
I could live with some adjustments under the table, so long as they are easy to reach, but bit changes need to be convenient.

Freud routers are getting hard to find since they were purchased by Bosch a few years ago. I like my FT1700VCE so well, I bought a spare a few weeks ago. It makes a great table router.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

5786 posts in 600 days


#4 posted 09-12-2013 03:17 AM

Thanks guys. The Triton is cheaper on amazon, but I am a Milwaukee fan. I will look into the Bosch. I did a search for Freud routers and found nothing as if they don’t make them or sell them anymore.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View josephf's profile

josephf

58 posts in 840 days


#5 posted 09-12-2013 04:42 AM

i do own a triton .i had to add a router razor ,the plastic parts on the routers lift kept failing . i have several routers set-up for tables to compare it to .though the above table bit change is great i find that it is really not a big deal to pop the router out of the table to change the bit .every bit generally requires a different fense set-up so the process of popping the router out is small . the routers with a nob on them that require me to reach under to adjust work just fine .I thought the features on the triton would be of more value .It i not an expensive router . it is ok . It gets moderate use ,never leaves the table .

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firefighterontheside

5786 posts in 600 days


#6 posted 09-12-2013 01:32 PM

Joseph, do you have the tra001? I am leaning towards this. Did you remove the plunge spring? Apparently this helps with saving parts from damage? Does yours have the 1/4 reducer? I am concerned that this reducer is not meant for using as many 1/4 bits as I have. I am afraid the reducer will wear out.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2031 posts in 1237 days


#7 posted 09-12-2013 01:39 PM

Freud routers aren’t marketed in the US anymore (or any of the other Freud power tools, for that matter). I guess Bosch made that a condition of their Freud bit/blade purchase. Anyway, I do not like those split ring adapters, if that is what you are referring too on the Triton. To me, that point alone would make me look elsewhere (besides being a big Milwaukee fan). I’ve never used one enough to wear out, but they are hell to (sometimes) get tight enough, and I’ve had them slip often enough and ruin something that I won’t use them ever again.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

6032 posts in 2172 days


#8 posted 09-12-2013 01:47 PM

Bill,
Not owning either routers you mentioned, I’m not sure my comment is appropriate. But, here goes, anyway.
I’ve ALWAYS had problems with reducers. Often the bits would climb out, ruining the cut. To alleviate the problems, I purchased a 1/4 collet for each of the routers for which I figured I’d use a 1/4 shank bit.
It only takes a couple seconds to change over from the 1/2” to the 1/4”....if it’s possible with either of your proposed purchases.
Hope you are able to buy different collets for your routers.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View firefighterontheside's profile

firefighterontheside

5786 posts in 600 days


#9 posted 09-12-2013 01:51 PM

I don’t know what kind of reducer the Triton comes with. It just says reducer. If its as you describe though, then I don’t want it. I just know that I’m tired of taking my Hitachi in and out of the table to use in the plunge base. I want above the table bit changes and lowering/raising. Want to find a router that has these features without having to buy an expensive lift. I also want to be able to use both size shanks. Finally I want to be able to use raised panel cutters. That is all that I want. Too much?

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View bigblockyeti's profile

bigblockyeti

1777 posts in 464 days


#10 posted 09-12-2013 01:57 PM

I love my Milwaukee for table use, it’s got the same power as my PC 7539, but a lot cheaper. I like that unlike some fixed base routers the body doesn’t spin in the base for adjustment, allowing the switch and spindle access windows to remain in the same place all of the time.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

2031 posts in 1237 days


#11 posted 09-12-2013 03:00 PM

The only thing I’m unsure of in your criteria that the Milwaukee 5625 won’t do is the above the table bit changes. Mine does, but it’s in a lift (long story). If you use the Milwaukee base with the built in features, it may not be quite above-the-table. BTW, the Milwaukee comes wiht collets for both shank size, and I added aftermarket collets for 3/8” and 8 MM to my collection.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

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firefighterontheside

5786 posts in 600 days


#12 posted 09-12-2013 03:23 PM

Thanks for your thoughts Fred. I’m leaning toward the Triton 2 1/4 HP. I think its plents horses and does everything I want. As opposed to the larger Triton, it has two different collets. The plunge spring is removable to allow for inverted use in a table. It seems the only drawback that I’ve read about is that the thing has to be turned off for bit changes, but I have read of someone who was able to remove the guard. I firmly believe in unplugging for changes anyway.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

View Toolz's profile

Toolz

1003 posts in 2486 days


#13 posted 09-12-2013 04:44 PM

2 1/4 HP Triton works really well in my router table.

-- Larry "Work like a Captain but Play like a Pirate!"

View josephf's profile

josephf

58 posts in 840 days


#14 posted 09-12-2013 05:20 PM

Regarding Questions .The triton I have is a 2 1/4 router . Comments I make sujusting it doesn’t walk on water has greatly disturbed people in the past . It depends on how you use it I guess .I would not want to have only one router with two bases .This router will work fine for table use .That said it is a plastic shell .The lowering and raising feature is great ,but they are plastic parts. I would greatly advise you not to bypass the switch ,You have enough on your mind when your doing wood design safty switches are a good thing .I put a verticle raised panel bit in it ,a lot more chatter then I found exceptable .I really dought it could handle a horizontal raised panel bit . Oh yeah it was smoking awhile back -not sure why but it stopped that . http://bigskytool.com/Freud_FT3000VCE_3-14_HP_Plunge_Router_With_Above_Table_Adjustment___i930.aspx check this out -now this baby will do raised panel bits . http://bigskytool.com/Hitachi_M12V_3-14_Peak_HP_Router_Plunge_Electronic_Variable_Speed_(Reconditioned)___i308.aspx I run two of this type though different brands . note the impressive price .power to do raised panel bits . i have made some real good purchases from this company

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firefighterontheside

5786 posts in 600 days


#15 posted 09-12-2013 07:57 PM

Joseph, you’re probably right about the power switch. Looked at bigsky but none of those are available. I do like Hitachi and my current router is a Hitachi km12vc with the interchangeable bases.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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