Which Bandsaw blades for various tasks?

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Forum topic by Tom posted 09-09-2013 08:13 PM 1390 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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185 posts in 1685 days

09-09-2013 08:13 PM

Hi everyone my first post!

I tried searching this on the site and online but could not really find anything helpful.

Here is my situation, I have 2 Craftsman 12” Bandsaws (the bandsaw / sander variety). I picked these up for a really good price and have been very happy with them they seem much nicer than a 9 or 10” models I see at the big box stores and HF.

1 of the 2 was a very recent purchase and I picked it up very cheap. What I would like to do is set one up with the best / biggest blade size for sawing logs up (think firewood size) as I have a bunch of nice logs oak, cedar, spruce etc. and the other I would like setup for general purpose / bandsaw box usage.

My problem comes in that I am not really sure what to get, The saws use 80” blades and I think I read that the saw can take up to either 1/2” or 3/4 blades and down to ?

The “log sawing” will be done mainly on completely dried out logs, already sized down to about 6” tall (I plan on making slabs of about 2 to 4’ long and no more than 8”, most likely 4 to 6” most of the time.

I have tried this with some logs and an old blade and it seems ok, but it’s time for new blades and I don’t know what to look for.

Thanks ahead of time for any help!


-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

9 replies so far

View WayneC's profile


13753 posts in 4062 days

#1 posted 09-09-2013 08:18 PM

Something like this for re-sawing. If you google 80” bandsaw blades you get lots of results.

I recommend reading this book…

-- We must guard our enthusiasm as we would our life - James Krenov

View Sanding2day's profile


1011 posts in 1812 days

#2 posted 09-09-2013 08:21 PM

Far from a BS expert but have read that for BSs 14” and under the blade should not be more than 1/2”, wasn’t specified as to why… Know that the Timberwolf 1/2” 3 tpi works well for milling, veneer etc. Look forward to what others have to say here…

-- Dan

View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2879 days

#3 posted 09-09-2013 08:35 PM

I run a Timber Wolf 3/4in 2-3TPI on my 14in Rikon BS and it works like a champ. Better than just the 3/4 3TPI. The deeper gullets on the 2-3 blade really helps in resawing. I have personally resawn up to 11 1/4in.

On the small side, I use a 1/4in 10TPI blade for curve work.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View pintodeluxe's profile (online now)


5620 posts in 2778 days

#4 posted 09-09-2013 08:41 PM

1/2” 2-3 tpi works great for me. I would use a wider blade like Mike, but my Jet 14” bandsaw won’t accept the wide blades.
Think wide blade with low tooth count for resawing and gentle curves. If you need to cut a sharper curve, you will switch to a narrower blade.

Best of Luck!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Surfside's profile


3389 posts in 2138 days

#5 posted 09-09-2013 08:42 PM

I good quality 1/2” 2-3 TPI blade will work. Used Timber blade before. It worked fine. I’ve tried 201 series Haltbar blade for rough cutting.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View Tom's profile


185 posts in 1685 days

#6 posted 09-09-2013 08:53 PM

thanks for all the info! I will order that book and I am looking at that Timberwolf blade as well.

I won’t be doing a ton of milling / resawing but will be doing enough that I think having the 2 bandsaws will be nice (and at $75 for both ($50 for 1, $25 for the other) I think a real good deal.

Going to check B&N for that book as I like to use nook.

Thanks again so much for all the quick help!

-- --Tom - Saint Francis, WI

View hydro's profile


208 posts in 1717 days

#7 posted 09-09-2013 09:37 PM


I read through the replies above and nobody mentioned the importance of blade thickness. I ran the same saw you have for many years and tried several blade combinations. Here is what I found:

The maximum thickness of blade that will reliably run on your 12” wheels is .025” Watch the thickness of some of the blades mentioned above as they may be .030” or .035” thick. It does not seem like much but they will stress crack in time rolling over that 6” radius wheel.

What worked best for me was a ½” wide 3 TPI hook profile blade. It worked great for re-sawing and amazingly, did well at general purpose cutting as well. The only thing it struggled at was contours, just because of the ½” width. I made up my own blades from bulk Do All “Dart” carbon steel blade stock. Check into some of the blades mentioned above and be sure they are no more than .025” thick.

Also, try not to spend too much for your blades. When re-sawing you will hit things and there goes your blade. Once a bit dull they will bow out in the cut and ruin your re-sawing work.

-- Minnesota Woodworkers Guild, Past President, Lifetime member.

View HorizontalMike's profile


7749 posts in 2879 days

#8 posted 09-09-2013 11:06 PM

Oh, I forgot to mention,... I will lubricate the blade with either PAM or PB-Blaster on a paper towel, running the wheel backwards, before every 3 or 4th use. This is a recent change for me but I do find it to be a really great practice and it really minimizes pitch build up. My 2- cents…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2655 days

#9 posted 09-10-2013 01:22 AM

These have had very good reviews and should be ideal for your smaller saw. I have used the 1/4” version of these for curved cuts and loved them.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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