bandsaw guide bearing question

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Forum topic by AndySensei posted 09-08-2013 08:47 AM 4846 views 0 times favorited 11 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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3 posts in 1745 days

09-08-2013 08:47 AM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Hi everyone,

I’m new to the forum, but have learned a lot from lurking around. I have a “simple” question about bandsaw tuning. I recently purchased my first bandsaw. It’s a KERV DF-14. It seemed to be the best value/quality available to me here in Japan. It looks great and feels real solid but it is the first bandsaw I’ve owned. The side guide bearings are roller ball bearings and the thrust bearing is also a ball bearing (flat side facing blade) On to my question:

I leave a VERY small gap between the blade and the side guide bearings after tensioning the blade, but the bearings spin when I run the saw. The noise isn’t bad, but I’m not sure if I should have them spinning with no cut being made. I’m also experimenting with Thrust bearing gap settings. Should it be turning at all with no cut being made?

It doesn’t bother me to try and dial it in for a few more days, I’m having fun learning about this machine.

Any advice would be appreciated. I’m glad I decided to join the community to share projects, learn, and grow as a woodworker. I look forward to hearing from anyone who has had some experience with this type of blade guide.

11 replies so far

View Tommy Evans's profile

Tommy Evans

147 posts in 2195 days

#1 posted 09-08-2013 01:02 PM

I can’t speak of the side bearings, my Craftsman has cool blocks. But make sure the bearings are BEHIND the gullets of the blade. On the craftsman the thrust bearing behind the blade is NOT to turn when Not cutting. It should be .002 – .003 away. Think a sheet of paper. Others will probably chime in with better info as they FINALLY wake up! LOL

Welcome to LJ’s.

peace, T

View Loco's profile


210 posts in 1771 days

#2 posted 09-08-2013 02:38 PM

-- What day is it ? No matter. Ummmm What month is it ? No moron. I paid for a 2 x 6. That means Two inches by six inches. I want the rest of my wood.

View bowedcurly's profile


519 posts in 1750 days

#3 posted 09-08-2013 10:16 PM

about .005 clearence from blade to bearing on side bearings, thrust bearing about 1/32 I think, but the blade will touch the side bearings when you put a load or cut on it plus the weld in the blade will hit too get that setup and you will be fine don’t forget to set your bottom bearings also Have fun and make some dust

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

View Blackie_'s profile


4883 posts in 2534 days

#4 posted 09-08-2013 11:01 PM

The video that Loco posted is worth it’s weight in gold, Alex will answer all the questions you are asking in his video, a great learning tool, I use his method, with his video no feeler gauges are needed it’s all in the lining feeling with the fingers and tightening of the blade,

As Alex states in video always make sure the saw is unplugged when doing these operations.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at

View Sandra's profile


7207 posts in 2096 days

#5 posted 09-08-2013 11:12 PM

Loco’s link is what I used for adjusting my bearings. Watch the video all the way through. It’s worth it.

-- No, I don't want to buy the pink hammer.

View MrRon's profile


4793 posts in 3265 days

#6 posted 09-09-2013 06:40 PM

Check the weld on the blade. If the weld is thicker than the blade thickness, it is probably making contact with the guides as it passes them. The weld must be smooth and the rollers making contact (no clearance) with the blade. Band saw blades account for most of the problems. If the blade is thicker at the joint, it will push the guides outward. That will cause the blade to “skew”. See my thread “For all band saw owners”.

View AndySensei's profile


3 posts in 1745 days

#7 posted 09-13-2013 12:58 AM

Thanks for all the advice. I watched the entire video, and it was a big help. I took into consideration everything you guys told me as well.

My first problem was that I was using the crap blade that came from the factory. I switched it out to a “Shark Blade” which is made here in Japan, and it is WAY better than before. After a few more adjustments and test cuts, I have cutting 1/8” x 1” x 36” strips of Black Walnut and White Oak for my first try at bent lamination. The saw is performing better than it was before, that’s for sure.

Since I have little experience with this saw (and woodworking in general) I will surely be posting more questions as time goes on.

View MrRon's profile


4793 posts in 3265 days

#8 posted 09-13-2013 08:41 PM

The side rollers should contact he blade. The thrust bearing should be 1/64” (.4mm) away from the back of the blade. The bearing will rotate only as you feed the work into the blade. Keep the tension as high as possible relative to the blade’s width.

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2711 days

#9 posted 09-14-2013 02:01 AM

Mr Ron, I respectfully disagree. The side rollers should not contact the blade but should be a dollar bill’s thickness from it.

Mark Dujinski or Lonnie Bird’s bandsaw books are very worthwhile reads.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View MrRon's profile


4793 posts in 3265 days

#10 posted 09-17-2013 06:41 PM

gfadvm, Rollers are meant to roll. that’s why they make roller guides, despite what Mark or Lonnie says. If guides don’t contact the blade, the blade can skew when feeding wood into it. I keep the rollers on mine in contact and I don’t get any drift.

View MrRon's profile


4793 posts in 3265 days

#11 posted 09-18-2013 09:48 PM

Please note that there is no mention of roller guides in the Duginske book, except for metal cutting band saws.

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