|Forum topic by HorizontalMike||posted 09-03-2013 11:10 PM||1390 views||0 times favorited||27 replies|
09-03-2013 11:10 PM
Well, I thought I would cheap out in building a modified “6-Board Chest” and picked up a handful of 2×8 8ft SYP boards from Big Orange(HD). I figured that at ~40% the cost of picking 1×8s how could I lose, especially with all that extra to thickness that can be planed down to perfection, right?...
I resawed about 3/8in off the thickness and then jointed and planed things down to 1in. I let those set for 2-days before planing to final thickness of 3/4in and immediately butt-glued two board pairs up to get my desired 14in width.
I had left one board, the one I planned on making the legs/ends of the bench at 1in upon glue up. The next morning I started out by cutting everything to final size and dado’d and scroll sawed the appropriate parts. My chest end “leg” boards had a pronounced “S” look from the alternated crown glue up, so I took it to the jointer to flatten and then planed both legs down to 3/4in (had to trim to 13in width to fit my planer). Glad I had left this one with so much extra thickness, as it paid off here.
Mounting the 14in wide front and rear boards, which had already started to cup slightly, took some extra cut nails to make a good fit. The bottom of the chest had to be planed down to just 0.700in, and even then it took some major effort to fit it in the dados on the end boards, but I got’er done.
By the end of yesterday the chest carcass was built and I had just cut the top to fit (+ an 1/8in) and called it a day. Went back out today to hinge the lid and lock, but found a significant cupping. I did a crown-crown glue up so at least the cupping is somewhat even across the entire width. The image below shows the lid with 70lb of weights on it to attempt to straighten out the cupping until I decide what to do next.
The lid will have a 7/8×1in molding/border around the sides and front. I realize that I am going to need to install some internal ribs to try and straighten out the cupping. And that leads to the following…
FWIW, I plan on milk painting both interior and exterior to hide the fact that my wide boards are glue ups and not single cut boards. I am hoping that by painting all sides, it might help stabilize any more wood movement once I get it into the house. I am sure that the 108F in the shop is not doing me any favors either.
Also, feel free to share any tricks/tips for working with SYP if you have found any that work…
-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."