|Forum topic by MrRon||posted 359 days ago||710 views||1 time favorited||2 replies|
359 days ago
I have read many threads on this forum and others about band saw problems they are having. I can finally pin point the problem that plagues many owners. Regardless of the make and model of band saw, the one weak link is the blade. As long as the band saw is set up right with the recommended clearances in the guides, there is no reason why the saw should not cut as it was designed to do. In almost every case of saws not cutting properly or following a line, the problem always comes down to the blade. Let me explain further;
Assuming the band saw has been set up correctly and it won’t follow a line as in re-sawing or any type of cutting, the welded joint on the blade becomes the culprit. What happens, when the weld is poorly done; the thickness at the weld as it passes the guides, forces the blocks or rollers away from the blade. The gap between blocks or rollers is now larger than when initially set. This allows the blade to waiver from side to side as you push the wood into the blade.
Guides are set as follows: For roller guides, the rollers press against the sides of the blade. If the weld is thicker than the blade, even just a few thousands of an inch, that is enough to cause the blade to “skew” at an angle. Solid blocks, like ceramic or cool blocks have a couple of thousands clearance from the blade. This is to prevent heat build-up from friction. The clearance is not so great as to “skew” the blade, but if the weld at the joint is thicker than the blade, skewing will result.
When buying blades, always check the joint weld. It should be perfectly flush with the blade. A good welded joint will be invisible.
P.S. I use Starrett blades. The joints are invisible.