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Forum topic by comboprof posted 360 days ago 1038 views 1 time favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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comboprof

221 posts in 366 days


360 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: question

This is my first post at LumberJocks and is my motivation for joining. I recently decided to add dust collection and read everything I could find online, but finally decided on purchasing a Jet DC-1100VX-CK Dust Collector 1.5HP 1PH 115/230-Volt 2-Micron Canister Kit but last minute switched to a Jet DC-1200VX-CK1 Dust Collector 2HP 1PH 230-Volt 2-Micron Canister Kit, because it was only $50 more. Well it arrived today and I discovered this is a 230V and not 110V a detail I missed. But I am sure I will be happy with it. To avoid more mistakes while I await arrival of an electrician would you be so kind to look over my proposed shop layout and make suggestions.

Note:
  1. I have chosen central dust collection, because I know if I didn’t I probably be lazy in hooking up tools to the DC.
  2. The windows go from mid height to the ceiling. Thus my plan is run the “tube”along the plate on top of the cinder blocks and thus just below the windows.
  3. All tools are on casters, so they can be pulled out from the wall as needed.
  4. I have not quite figured out how I will “hook up” every thing, but I am getting there.
  5. Because there is an apartment above the shop. Code required me to put in drywall. Thus all the studs are covered.

Thanks in advance. I can of course provide more detail if needed.
(If you don’t hear from I’ve gone camping for the rest of Labor day weekend.)

-- -- Cheers, Don K. (Michgan's Kewenaw peninsula)


8 replies so far

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1253 posts in 580 days


#1 posted 360 days ago

Shop layout really depends on what you do. Personally My shop is 26’ wide and 30’ deep. I am a big fan of having the TS about 14’ from the back wall and right next to the side wall (I have a PM66 W/ 54” fence). also I like my DC right next next to the overhead door (for easy cleanout).

View Loren's profile

Loren

7425 posts in 2280 days


#2 posted 360 days ago

I have found it no use to try to plan out these things
until after I’ve been using them for awhile.

My philosophy is “fix what bugs you” and trying to make
a layout that won’t bug me hasn’t worked on paper.
I just have to move stuff around.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View mbs's profile

mbs

1435 posts in 1572 days


#3 posted 360 days ago

I like having the back edge of the tabla saw at the garage door so I can use the car port as my outfeed working area.

I think your layout looks good.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View riverguy's profile

riverguy

91 posts in 696 days


#4 posted 360 days ago

I totally agree with Loren. For now, put your tools where you think you’d like them and hook the DC up to each one with a quick-connect as you use the tool. In a short while it will become clear how you need to set it up. At that point, you can start connecting all the tools to the DC with a gate at each tool and a remote start in your pocket or on your belt. Don’t get to fussy about routing hoses yet, because you’ll be moving things around again anyway.

I have my stationery belt sander and bandsaw hooked up permanently, although each tool still has some extra flex hose behind it so I can pull the tool out from the wall if I need to. They’re all on wheels. But my planer, which I don’t use that often, sits on a portable bench (on wheels, too) and has its hose coiled up in a compartment in the bench. When I need to use it, I roll it to wherever it will accomodate what lengths are going through, and then connect the hose to the quick-connect on my belt sander, which in turn is disconnected during planer use.

It’s all about remaining flexible, since you will always need different clearances around and next to your tools.

I agree with the idea of keeping the DC near the door, too. Also, think about a ceiling mounted DC eventually. Mine is so effective in cleaning the air of that really fine dust you never even see unless the light is just right. And by the way the pre-filter gets piled with that dust pretty quickly, I’d way rather have it in there than in my old lungs! Cheap “health insurance!”

-- Skip, Forestville, CA, http://www.sonomastainedglass.com

View exelectrician's profile

exelectrician

1535 posts in 1059 days


#5 posted 360 days ago

Take the filter off and pipe the fine dust outside

-- Love thy neighbour as thyself

View comboprof's profile

comboprof

221 posts in 366 days


#6 posted 359 days ago

Thank you for all the replies.

First shawn you are correct it does depend on what you do. So some perspective. In 1984 just out of graduate school I purchased the table saw and my wife and I made small wooden folk craft and traveled to arts and craft shows. I paid for the table saw in one year by selling at $1 a piece unfinished little wooden house formed from the edge of Douglas fir 2 by 4’s. After 5 years I moved and wood working dwindled to a trickle, I move again 2 years later to very northern Michigan and started again, but the craft shows with travel were not profitable. My wife opened a fiber art shop. Now 29 years after I bought that table saw and within 10 years of retirement I have decided to fix the shop up and get back to wood working. In particular I have a lot bits of wood that need to be used up. So thats what I’ll be doing. A lot of simple projects. Some kits for 4H-kids to put to gather and so on. Later I’ll get back to woodcarving and some fine woodworking projects. Second that is a very good idea about putting the dust collector near the door. I will consider this. My thought was because the DC has two 4” ports I could make a second short run along the back wall and move the sanding table there. This would give more rooms around other tools. Thus the location of the DC. I like your idea on the table saw and will onsider the adjustment later.

Loren you advice is spot on. I have left the plan as it is and will see how it goes. This Labor day weekend turned into a work in the shop weekend, because my wife got sick and it rained each day. So I’ve been amusing myself by running the tubes and making dust collection attachments. But the good news is I have found a I think a clever way to attach the PVC D&S pipes to the Wye tubes. I can easily remove and reconfigure if desired.

mbs your idea on the table saw is exactly why I located the sliding miter saw near the front door.

riverguy where can I get a remote start? Where do they connect in? (It would be good to know this I think before I run the electricity for the D.C.)

-- -- Cheers, Don K. (Michgan's Kewenaw peninsula)

View toolie's profile

toolie

1742 posts in 1260 days


#7 posted 359 days ago

where can I get a remote start? Where do they connect in?

many WWs use units like this:

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2005117/8273/WoodRiver-220-Volt-Dust-Collector-Remote-Control-Switch.aspx

very simple but requires activating and de-activating the DC via the key fob. i always found that extra activity burdensome. i prefer these and use two daisy chained IVAC units (not the ivac pro units) to activate and de-ativate both a 220v DC and a 110v shop vac shop with primary (dust generating) tool activation/de-activation:

http://www.ivacswitch.com/index.action#

here’s a pic of my DC activating hardware:

if you want to see what’s probably the best hobby shop DC set up around, check out alan schaffter’s video on his shop’s dust collection:

http://www.americanwoodworker.tv/videos/5057_automatic-dust-collection/

alan posts regularly on both the saw mill creek and the woodnet forums under his name on SMC and alan in little washington on woodnet.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View comboprof's profile

comboprof

221 posts in 366 days


#8 posted 359 days ago

O.K. do the IVAC units work by sensing a surge on the power line and then turn on the DC ?

-- -- Cheers, Don K. (Michgan's Kewenaw peninsula)

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