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Going to Purchase an Ridgid r4512

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Forum topic by MrStyle posted 09-01-2013 07:46 PM 2020 views 0 times favorited 44 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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MrStyle

35 posts in 385 days


09-01-2013 07:46 PM

Topic tags/keywords: accessories r4512 tablesaw question

Folks -

After much begging – and going “shopping” my wife has finally given me the ok to purchase a tablesaw. (sobs with joy)

Folks

I am going to buy a r4512 table saw this weekend. I am a hobbyist newbie woodworker and I am looking for recommendations of what else I should get along with the saw. I will be buying accessories mainly from Home Depot due to no interest for 24 months..

I am also going to pick up some additional accessories – any suggestions on brands/models for these items

Feather board
Blade
Dado Set
Dust collection ( shop vac based with what hoses/connections)

I will be buying the GRR-Ripper too for safety.


44 replies so far

View dpwalker's profile

dpwalker

265 posts in 1486 days


#1 posted 09-01-2013 08:59 PM

Don’t forget push sticks (store bought or shop made) safety glasses & hearing protection.
Home Depot carries Diablo blades which are reasonably priced & a good deal for the money IMO.

-- You have not really lived until you do something for someone who can never repay you.

View whitebeast88's profile

whitebeast88

3524 posts in 845 days


#2 posted 09-01-2013 09:17 PM

i bought my r4512 earlier this year and i bought a diablo dado set and a diablo 50 tooth blade and have been happy with them so far.the dust collection on the saw is a 4” outlet.

welcome to lumberjocks!!!!

-- Marty.Athens,AL

View knotscott's profile

knotscott

5456 posts in 2030 days


#3 posted 09-01-2013 09:50 PM

The only decent blades my HD carries are the Freud Diablo series. A 24T D1024 ripper and 60T D1060 would be a great complement to each other, but a single 40T D1040 or 50T D1050 will do well also. The Freud Diablo DD208 will be the best dado set that HD carries. I’d avoid the the Avanti/Avanti Pro line, DW Construction series, and the Oldham Contractor line at HD.

Blade bargains

Post some pics of your new saw when you get it!

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

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MrFid

528 posts in 559 days


#4 posted 09-01-2013 10:31 PM

Make your own featherboard as a first project! As others have said, blades are important. Get the Freud dado set from HD if you are going to be using the saw for dadoes.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

View rrww's profile

rrww

263 posts in 768 days


#5 posted 09-01-2013 11:09 PM

+1 on the Diablo blades, I think they are great for the money. A good dado is a must have – don’t cheap out on the dado.

View lumbermeister's profile

lumbermeister

99 posts in 634 days


#6 posted 09-02-2013 12:58 AM

1. Buy or make a zero-clearance insert.

2. Freud SD206 6” Dado Set (some may have a need for an 8” yet, but, thus far, I do not see it for myself).

3. Feather Board – You can make one easily enough, but you might consider the type with built-in rare earth magnet (no need to confine your setup to the miter track) http://www.amazon.com/Magswitch-Table-Feather-Universal-Model/dp/B001DSZ7EC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1378083419&sr=8-4&keywords=feather+board

4. Dust Collector – This one works well for me http://www.amazon.com/SHOP-FOX-W1727-Dust-Collector/dp/B001R23T44/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1378083498&sr=1-3&keywords=shop+fox+dust+collector

Congratulations on your new saw (I have the same one and I am very happy with it)!

View MrStyle's profile

MrStyle

35 posts in 385 days


#7 posted 09-02-2013 01:19 AM

Whitebeast
Interested in your experienced with getting the saw … have you encountered any of the famous alignment issues ?

Thanks for all the suggestions folks – I was looking at th Freud blades today (especially on my 2nd trip to HD to pickup all the stuff I forgot/didn’t know I needed for today’s project – a simple miter saw stand.)

The project went pretty well – I didn’t add anything to the firewood pile … VICTORY !

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whitebeast88

3524 posts in 845 days


#8 posted 09-02-2013 02:44 AM

mrstyle
haven’t run into any issues with the alignment(knock on wood).i’ve heard several others say they have.
depends on if your hd will take a 20% harbor freight coupon,i called and asked the manager on duty if they’d honor it and he did so it saved me a $100.its worth a try,it bought my dado set.i also have the 24t diablo from hd and its been a very good blade.

-- Marty.Athens,AL

View lumbermeister's profile

lumbermeister

99 posts in 634 days


#9 posted 09-02-2013 03:06 AM

Mr. Style – I have an alignment issue with the saw (purchased 1.5 years ago) -Raising the blade causes the back of the blade to shift around .015” to the right; upon just beginning the action of lowering it, it shifts back to its nominal position. Frustrating at first, and unable to fix, I have performed all alignments and blade height adjustments by lowering the blade just slightly from any given height (again, this returns it to its nominal position).

I am happy with the saw, despite this flaw, because it, otherwise, performs so well and, I think, is the best in-class at its price point (vibration free, built-in mobile base, plenty of power to slice through 6/4 purpleheart and hard maple – I use a Freud Industrial Thin Kerf Rip, quiet, good dust collection). WIth this setup, I have done a number of projects such as cutting boards where I went from cut to glue-up; no additional surface treatment.

View toolie's profile

toolie

1762 posts in 1283 days


#10 posted 09-02-2013 12:47 PM

I have performed all alignments and blade height adjustments by lowering the blade just slightly from any given height (again, this returns it to its nominal position).

so to eliminate the blade shifting problem, you raise the blade to a given height and lower it slightly, and this “returns” the blade to it’s blade to miter slot alignment position? it almost sounds like this is a quick “fix” to this saw’s only real area of contention. am i interpreting what you’re saying correctly?

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Tennessee's profile

Tennessee

1447 posts in 1169 days


#11 posted 09-02-2013 12:57 PM

One thing I’ve done with my R4512 is that I do not have a 4” vacuum system in my shop, so I reduced mine down to the usual 2 1/2. This obviously leaves a lot of sawdust in the much, much larger chamber in the saw. So I took off the back panel bolts, and substituted two wing bolts to hold on the back panel. About once a week, when I clean my shop, it is very easy to remove the wing bolts, take off the panel, vacuum out the various parts and the chamber, and put the panel back on. About a minute, actually. I also get to look into my saw and take a peek to make sure everything looks good.

-- Paul, Tennessee, http://www.tsunamiguitars.com

View lumbermeister's profile

lumbermeister

99 posts in 634 days


#12 posted 09-03-2013 12:34 AM

Toolie – Yes your take on my description of the alignment issue on my R4512 is correct. It is definitely a work-around, as it does not eliminate the issue but renders it highly manageable. And, yes, this is, as far as I am concerned, the only real area of concern with this saw.

Would I buy it again? Yes. If I had the luxury of a greater budget, I would have opted for a cabinet saw (table-mounted trunions). But I have been able to align the blade to the miter slot without any unreasonable difficulty on my R4512, and, as mentioned, I have been able to cut through 8/4 exotic hardwoods and take them right to glue-up. Not bad at all for a saw in this price range. I do not know of any other in its price class that would be such a performer (again, other than the alignment issue, this saw is a very well engineered and refined product).

View crank49's profile

crank49

3434 posts in 1625 days


#13 posted 09-04-2013 02:48 AM

My saw does not return to its aligned position upon lowering the blade.
I suggest the reason yours does is that you don’t really have one with the alignment issue.
The guide rods are thin and weak. The lift screw is offset from the center of gravity of the arbor assembly. It is normal that the arbor shifts laterally when pressure is applied by the off center lifting screw. And it would also be normal for a saw like this to return to it’s alignment position when the pressure is reversed.

BUT, on saws like mine, the whole mechanism shifts to a new position with pressure and then returns to some other position upon reversal of pressure. I have run the blade up and down a dozen times and checked the alignment each time. And got a dozen different readings. Not only does it shift in relation to the miter slot, but it also shifts out of vertical as well.

From my point of view, the Ridgid R4512/ Craftsman 21833 is a fantastic value if you are lucky enough to get a good one, but an extremely frustrating piece of crap if you get one with the alignment defect. I also think, knowing what I now know about the way these saws are built, that it will be a miracle for one of these saws to last more that a few years of even moderate hobby shop use.

-- Michael :-{| “If you tell a big enough lie and tell it frequently enough, it will be believed.” ― A H

View Bullet's profile

Bullet

150 posts in 1984 days


#14 posted 09-04-2013 11:02 AM

I bought a 4512 earlier in the year after posting the idea here on LJ. I got the same comments from pretty much the same guys and girls who are answering your post. I ended up getting the saw, almost losing a finger to a kickback, and returning the saw with my tail between my legs and having learned there is no substitute for experience. “I can make it work” or “Mine will be different” doesn’t cut it. If you’re set on the purchase, be sure to THOROUGHLY check the unit before bringing it home. It sits upside down in the box and its easy to see if the alignment changes simply by trying it right in the box. All the units at the HD I got mine at had the problem. The manager marked them all return to vendor.

-- Anything is possible when you have no idea what you're talking about.

View Enal's profile

Enal

8 posts in 578 days


#15 posted 09-19-2013 12:05 AM

So how/what should we check on the saw while in the box?

I’m about to buy one of these also and was wondering if this problem still exists or if it was something inherent to the original saws or saws of a specific period.

If not the Ridgid 4512 what’s the other choice in this price range? I wouldn’t mind going a little more ($100) but I’m also just getting started. The Lifetime Warranty on the Ridgid has a big allure, but lifetime of pain for something that will be my daily escape isn’t something I’m interested in either.

-- -Lane

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