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I need your opinions on a used band saw.....

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Forum topic by Padre posted 11-15-2008 07:01 PM 4484 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Padre

930 posts in 2233 days


11-15-2008 07:01 PM

Hi all,
I’ve been looking for a used band saw. I’ve come across many 8’ and 9”, and folks that have bigger ones are asking alot. I’ve come across this one, and it is old, in excellent condition, but I was wondering what you all thought. Good deal? Stay away? He wants $250 firm. Thank you.

Band Saw
Band Saw 2

Here is the description:

My father purchased this bandsaw new in 1986 for around $700. It is 3 wheels – will cut 9inches high and 24 inches wide. It is American made – a Model 249 Dupli-Carver. It was made by Wood Miser – a well known maker of portable saw mills.

It has very little use and is in good condition. Original manual is included. It is located in Suffield.

Thank you!!!

-- Chip -----------http://www.penmanchip.com-----------------Micah 6:8


10 replies so far

View brianinpa's profile

brianinpa

1810 posts in 2467 days


#1 posted 11-15-2008 08:39 PM

Chip,
Everything I have read or heard of three wheel band saws is that they are difficult to keep in track. I have never used one, so I don’t really have any first hand experience, but if people who have had them recommend that you stay away from them, maybe there is some merit in their recommendations. Good luck with the search becasue that is half the fun of owning a used tool.

-- Brian, Lebanon PA, If you aren’t having fun doing it, find something else to do.

View Blake's profile

Blake

3439 posts in 2618 days


#2 posted 11-15-2008 09:42 PM

I would not pay $250 for this. The three wheel bandsaws tend to be cheaper and harder to track among other problems. For $250 you could hold out for a REAL used bandsaw… and by that I am referring to the good old bomb-proof Delta 14”

Look at the construction of that saw… there is no way you could tension it correctly.

-- Happy woodworking! http://www.openarmsphotography.com

View Tony Z's profile

Tony Z

205 posts in 2534 days


#3 posted 11-15-2008 11:07 PM

If you are patient, you can pick up a good 14” saw for under 200 bucks. I watched craigslist and ebay for months when I was in the market for one, and I got a nice 14” Ridgid for 123.00 on Ebay. And it was only a 30 minute drive away. I agree with Blake, stay away from the 3 wheel models unless they are asking 20 bucks for it.

-- Tony, Ohio

View Loren's profile

Loren

7821 posts in 2392 days


#4 posted 11-16-2008 12:51 AM

The duplicarver isn’t strictly a normal 3-wheeled
bandsaw, it’s a specialized tool. I’m not sure but
it may be possible to flip it over and use it in hand-held
fashion for cutting corbels work on slabs and things.

See http://www.falbergsawz.com/ for more information
on corbel saws.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View Padre's profile

Padre

930 posts in 2233 days


#5 posted 11-16-2008 03:49 AM

Loren,
I went to see it today. It is an amazing piece of engineering. This tool is like brand new! And you are right, it can be flipped over for cutting corbels, slabs, etc.

Pros (from what I saw): Made in USA; in immaculate condition; multi-tasking (band saw, flip over for others ie: corbels); comes with a lot of extras (jigs, tables, etc.). Fairly low price.

Cons: 3 wheel system

-- Chip -----------http://www.penmanchip.com-----------------Micah 6:8

View marcb's profile

marcb

762 posts in 2417 days


#6 posted 11-16-2008 04:37 PM

The number one consideration with odd bandsaws is how easy can you get blades. Custom blade sizes (ones you don’t do yourself) are a bit more expensive and that adds up over the life of the saw.

#2 do you have room for that, it looks like a beast

I bought my 14” Delta for 150. And that was a user, I had to replace a bolt to fix the lower thrust bearing adjustment, but I think that vibrated out in transit. This was a good deal and definitly on the low end, however you are up in the NE which is tool central from what I’ve seen.

If you feel forced into this bandsaw to fill a need I would vote to not buy it and be patient. Open up your search a little wider. People I know in the NE are always talking about the 200 dollar Cabinet saws and other outrageous deals they find.

View ChuckV's profile (online now)

ChuckV

2473 posts in 2271 days


#7 posted 11-16-2008 04:51 PM

Here is another point to consider. There are a few references to three-wheel bandsaws at Suffolk Machinery, source of the TimberWolf blades. They say not to use some types of their blades on three-wheel machines. They also have something to say about blade life:
“You will encounter decreased blade life with any three-wheel band saw even if the wheels are larger than 14 inches.”

-- “While the world with closed eyes sleeps, The sky knows and weeps - steel rain. ” ― Nathan Bell

View Loren's profile

Loren

7821 posts in 2392 days


#8 posted 11-16-2008 05:09 PM

Timberwolf blades are breakers. The welds are brittle. I’ve run
Timberwolf blades on a 10” INCA bandsaw and they often break
before they get dull.

-- http://lawoodworking.com

View umbach's profile

umbach

41 posts in 1400 days


#9 posted 02-21-2014 12:16 PM

Interesting comments on the blades, Loren. I have a duplicarver just like above and use timberwolf blades. They are custom 109” and break long before they are dull. Anyway, the tires are shot and I cannot get any replacement ones to fit. So, it’s gone and a new one is being hunted on craigslist.

View William Falberg's profile

William Falberg

5 posts in 97 days


#10 posted 11-30-2014 05:06 PM

There’s nothing inherently wrong with a three-wheeled system, ( my first prototype portable was a hot-rodded Delta three-wheeler), so long as you can adjust tracking on all three wheels. Unfortunately, the big two-wheel bandsaw manufacturers all make the same mistake; They only provide for tracking the tensioning wheel. The difference is: it gets critical when there’s a third wheel. The solution is to hot rod your bandsaw to accept adjustment of ALL wheels- whatever you have to do. I introduce a intermediary base plate for the idler wheel shaft that’s triangular with a screw in the pointy end to slant the “faux” baseplate in whatever direction the wheel needs to produce top center tracking all around. You might have to find a way to re-vector your drive wheel. If you do; please show us how; because I’d like to see that , too. This window is too small to explain WHY, but it’s also critical that the wheels be crowned to exactly the same radius as the wheel itself. The blade wants to believe that the wheel is a sphere. Like I said, this window is too restrictive. See my book or look me up.

-- http://www.falbergsaws.com

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