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Forum topic by Shozzy posted 361 days ago 700 views 0 times favorited 6 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Shozzy

10 posts in 365 days


361 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: cherry danish oil blo finishing advice

Hello, I am new to the forum so I hope I have posted this in the appropriate area! I am about to glue and screw a cherry coffee table project I have been working on and have tested a few finishes on scrap and looking for some thoughts from others. So far I tried danish oil topped with shellac but will more then likely use rub on poly so it had a little more durability as this will be used in the “man cave” which probably means spills. I like the way the oil looks on the wood but I am seeing the “blotchy” areas or “figure”. Otherwise the color and grain looks impressive. I have also tried minwax cherry gel stain which has no blotch but the color is similar to the oil an looks fake or artificial to me. I have let both “suntan” for 12 hours. As this will be In a basement will its darken as much as it would in front of a large window? Also does the color of BLO differ much from the danish oil? Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I have attached a photo of the table dry assembled upside down
!


6 replies so far

View whitebeast88's profile

whitebeast88

3474 posts in 823 days


#1 posted 361 days ago

great looking table,i’ve been using the danish oil lately on every project with wipe on poly.sorry i’m not much help but theres some smart people on here that should chime in.

-- Marty.Athens,AL

View Gerald Thompson's profile

Gerald Thompson

361 posts in 867 days


#2 posted 361 days ago

If it were me I would use Waterlox original. Wipe on about six coats, let it cure for 30 days and rub it out. Waterlox will make it “pop” as it has Tung oil in it. Waterlox will provide a durable finish for a man cave. The cherry will darken over time even in a basement.
I do not like poly as it gives the wood a plastic look

-- Jerry

View teejk's profile

teejk

1208 posts in 1317 days


#3 posted 361 days ago

That piece came from what I could salvage from an old twisted/checked/bowed chunk of what was a beam. I used a Zar product in cherry finish. Was very light when I made it but a few years later it has developed a darker patina. Given all the worm-holes/tracks on that piece it looks more like an antique now.

View yrob's profile

yrob

340 posts in 2285 days


#4 posted 361 days ago

I was just experimenting with cherry and pine who both are prone to blotching for a piece I am about to finish.

Indeed gels will eliminate blotching but they change the color. Another option which works well enough is to first use a coat of wax-free shellac diluted to 1lb cut or less. Let it dry and very lightly sand with 320 to remove the nibs. Apply your oil stain on top of that. The shellac will partially seal the cherry (but not completely since its a very diluted one) and allow for the oil stain to penetrate evenly rather than blotch.

I did not come up with this idea, it is a technique that is described by Bob Flexner in his book “Flexner on Finishing”.

Once you are satisfied with the look of it, lock in the stain by another few coats of dewaxed shellacs, making sure its dry between coats and using 320 grits each coat. After that’s dry, you can apply any kind of polyurethane or other varnish to make it durable.

-- Yves

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1426 posts in 994 days


#5 posted 360 days ago

Stain or not, according to your taste, but it deserves a real finish. Top with either waterborne or oil poly.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

View bowedcurly's profile

bowedcurly

479 posts in 361 days


#6 posted 360 days ago

I have a cherry table also that Im gettin ready to finish will post afterwhile

-- Staining killed the wood<<<<<>>>>>Dyeing gave it life

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