Raised panel doors on table saw?

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Forum topic by Split posted 09-01-2013 06:39 AM 4672 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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33 posts in 1733 days

09-01-2013 06:39 AM

I have found some videos and some websites online showing how people have done this. However, on some raised panel doors there is no differentiation between the beveled portion of the center and the center face. I have seen that there is a way apparently to add a slight vertical drop along the face panel to enhance the design. I was wondering if anyone who be able to inform me as to how to achieve this on a table saw.


10 replies so far

View Loren's profile


10373 posts in 3642 days

#1 posted 09-01-2013 06:46 AM

With the “drop” is preferred because it allows straight
lines where without it otherwise the bevels would
follow variations in panel thickness and operator
stock feeding error.

The “drop” is made using the rip fence set to
perhaps 1.5” with a blade elevation of 1/8”
or a little less.

Since the panels must be held on end and edge
to make the bevels, a tilted jig which rides on
the rip fence is preferable to tilting the blade
in my opinion, especially with contractor saws
where tilting causes a slight “heeling” of the

Most any book on table saw usage will cover
raised panels. Be forewarned, sanding the bevels
can be less that fun and especially so on woods
which burn easily.

View Abghfvj's profile


16 posts in 1730 days

#2 posted 09-01-2013 09:46 AM

For doing raised panels on the table saw, I made a jig that runs along the fence which is beveled buy 10 degrees and I keep my table saw blade at 90 degrees and then I clamps my panel to the jig and run it along the fence

But before I do this I set my blade about an 1/8 th of an inch high and set my fence to about 2” and run the four faces against the fence creating 1/8” by 1/8” dados(these create the ‘drop’)

Then I set my fence so that it leaves 1/8” on the outside perimeter (with jig) and set my blade to the height that the dados are at (2”) and do that for the four sides

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 1942 days

#3 posted 09-01-2013 12:05 PM

you should watch stumpy’s show on making raised panels

View NoLongerHere's profile


893 posts in 2670 days

#4 posted 09-01-2013 01:14 PM

There are a few ways to make a raised panel door and I guess, the best way is what works for you based on experience, gumption and tools available.

Sometimes, it’s just fun to put on your Roy Underhill hat and collarless pirate shirt, sharpen the profile planes and do something the old school way. I’ve made dovetailed boxes by hand even though I own a PC dovetail machine.

The thing I remember about this technique was the incredible amount of time needed to clean up the deep saw cuts across the end grain. The smallest amount missed shows up in the stain application. Plus, the profile gets all distorted from rigorous hand sanding. note: profile sanding blocks do help.

I made a fancy fence jig to hold the panels upright and it still moved a tad. (For Sale – used once)

If you even think about hesitating during the pass, the blade will burn it…. more fun sanding. Lastly, I didn’t care for the way the panel sat in the dado.

Do you have a router?... a router table?
IMO -That would be the best way to get good results and you won’t get tennis elbow from hand sanding saw cuts.

But, I’m sure Roy wouldn’t mind all that sanding….what a delightful goof he is.

now, I have to go check out stumpy’s video….sounds interesting.

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1325 posts in 1942 days

#5 posted 09-01-2013 01:49 PM

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4981 posts in 2487 days

#6 posted 09-01-2013 02:29 PM

Loren mentioned what I found to be the problem: sanding the dang things smooth. It was so much work I haven’t done it that way since then first time. Back then I didn’t have any hand planes, now I do and you might be able to do it more efficiently with them.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View RogerM's profile


792 posts in 2393 days

#7 posted 09-01-2013 03:17 PM

I have used a table saw with a support fence/jig a number of times to make raised panels. One of the main reasons for using this method is to prevent chipping and gouging that is often experienced in using router tables and shapers on highly figured wood. Please see my curly maple laundry room project for an example. Also, considerable sanding efforts may be reduced by using a Forrest Woodworker II saw blade.

-- Roger M, Aiken, SC

View Loren's profile


10373 posts in 3642 days

#8 posted 09-01-2013 03:21 PM

It can also be done with the panels flat using a
tilted dado blade. Since the depth of cut must
be changed several times, the setup is tricky.
This eliminates the burning though.

Of course paint grade work may be filled and
painted and nobody will see the burning.

View GarageWoodworks's profile


531 posts in 2150 days

#9 posted 09-01-2013 03:59 PM

Yet another way: Raised panels with a tilting router table fence:

-- Subscribe on YouTube:

View bandit571's profile


19960 posts in 2677 days

#10 posted 09-01-2013 05:01 PM

Have a few projects done on the saw. Made a slider for the fence, with the panel held vertical. Have also done them using a single blade. First cut makes the rabbet, by holding the panel vertical. run the panel on all four edges this way. Since there is nothing being cut off, you still have support after the blade. Next, lay the panel flat on the saw, set the blade to tilt enough to make the Shaker Style angle. Set the fence so that the blade just runs along the bottom of the rabbet. When the cut is made, the waste is just left behind. Have a solid Red Cedar cedar chest as a project, using this way…

the top drawer is a fake one. Two bottom drawers do work, and have thier edges beveled to match the rest of the panels.

-- A Planer? I'M the planer, this is what I use

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