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Bad Blade?

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Forum topic by RussellAP posted 362 days ago 720 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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RussellAP

2950 posts in 918 days


362 days ago

I just put a riser kit on my bs and the blade that came with it was crap. I was down at a local hardwood store and picked up a couple from them to fit the new size, 105. Took it home and installed it, it’s a 1/4, got it on and tension-ed, put all new blocks in and cut some cedar with it.

It cuts so rough I have to sand everything. I’ve never seen such a bad cut. The blade is sharp, but you can see it has either a kink or a bend in it as it cuts.

I’m wondering if I got the wrong blade, or just a bad one.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.


8 replies so far

View Paula Perry's profile

Paula Perry

127 posts in 399 days


#1 posted 362 days ago

that happened to me once, i just adjusted the tension underneath the table and then the top ones and i didnt have any problem after that. i believe i got rough cut from the blade wanting to twist up a bit or wobble a little too. good luck.

-- Florida50

View lumberjoe's profile

lumberjoe

2833 posts in 880 days


#2 posted 362 days ago

Could be a bad blade, but since you changed 2 things at once, it’s hard to diagnose. Just make sure it is properly tensioned and your guides are set correctly, and as low as you can get to the piece.

Also how thick were you cutting? a 1/4” blade is pretty narrow. I use it for cutting curves. For ripping and resawing I use a 5/8” blade. The wider blade tracks a lot less when ripping and I can feed a lot faster. Resawing anything over 1” is almost pointless with any of my 1/4” blades on my saw.

-- www.etsy.com/shop/KandJWoodCrafts

View StumpyNubs's profile

StumpyNubs

6173 posts in 1432 days


#3 posted 362 days ago

A 1/4” blade should be pretty easy to tension, so that may not be the problem. The tooth style can make a big difference. Finer teeth give finer cuts, fewer teeth are better for thicker wood so the dust clears from the kerf. Hook tooth vs. Skip tooth makes a difference too.

Here's a link to a great guide to figure it all out.

Hope that helps!

-- It's the best woodworking show since the invention of wood... New episodes at: http://www.stumpynubs.com

View Vincent Nocito's profile

Vincent Nocito

429 posts in 1996 days


#4 posted 362 days ago

I don’t know what brand of blade you picked. I have run across some bs blades that have a bit of a burr on the back side of the blade or rough welds. I use a band saw tuning stone from Woodcraft (#49H09, about $14) to clean up the blade. After treatment the blade tracks better with much less jink and flutter.

View MrRon's profile

MrRon

2797 posts in 1875 days


#5 posted 362 days ago

A band must have a weld that is so smooth you cant detect where it was joined plus it must be perfectly straight. A slight bump in the weld will mess up your guide blocks (knock them out of alignment) and give you a bad cut. I have been using Starrett bands and they are perfect. You cannot even see where it was joined. They don’t cost much more than other bands on the market. The smoother the band passes around the wheels and guides, the smoother will be the cut.

You didn’t say what the thickness of the wood was and the number of teeth on the band.

View RussellAP's profile

RussellAP

2950 posts in 918 days


#6 posted 362 days ago

StumpyNubs, I have the blade tensioned properly. I think it has either a rough weld, or a kink. I haven’t had time to investigate, but I plan to remove it tomorrow and take it back. I’m going to stick with Timberwolf from now on. It takes longer to get them, but I haven’t had a bad one yet from them.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

3412 posts in 2592 days


#7 posted 361 days ago

I kinda think that hardware store blades might not be the best.
Bill

-- bill@magraphics.us

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

1656 posts in 1553 days


#8 posted 360 days ago

The only reason, that I know of, to get a riser is for re-sawing wide boards. That is why I got mine and I only use 5/8” carbide blades on it. I have a 105” x 1/4” blade that I have never installed. I use a scroll saw for any curvy cuts.

-- In God We Trust

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