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Rigid TS3650 folding out feed table

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Forum topic by Medickep posted 08-29-2013 02:40 AM 5365 views 2 times favorited 23 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


08-29-2013 02:40 AM

I’ve searched and found some great examples of out feed tables for my Rigid TS3650, but can’t seem to find any plans on how to make it. Wondering if anyone had some plans for this or new were to go to get them.

I’d must admit I’m not always the best at coming up with ideas but I can micmic than like no other!!

I could probably figure something out, but between the motor sitting in the back and moving when beveling, I really don’t know where to start!

-- Keith


23 replies so far

View toolie's profile

toolie

2024 posts in 2093 days


#1 posted 08-29-2013 06:59 PM

here’s a couple:

http://sawsndust.com/p-outfeed.htm

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t7542/

i followed the design of the ridgid forum for an outfeed table on a ridgid ts2412. it worked great.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View Lynden's profile

Lynden

60 posts in 2612 days


#2 posted 08-31-2013 02:18 AM

Toolie beat me to it. The second link above is one of the best outfeed tables I have seen for a TS3650. It’s a long post with lots of pictures for you to follow.

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t7542/

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#3 posted 09-10-2013 03:44 PM

Hey guys now that my back is getting better I’m going to get serious about building an out feed table for my TS.

The links aren’t working on my cell phone right now but the one I want to build was the one where the guy used a piano hinge to allow the table to fold down.

If you guys built this, my question for you is did the 1” square piece of aluminum attached to the right side of the saw interfere with the bevel adjustor wheel?

Also, did you have to cut underneath the table to allow room for the motor when tilted at a 45.

O, one more question! Is the out feed table totally level with the table if the TS?

Thanks!

-- Keith

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toolie

2024 posts in 2093 days


#4 posted 09-11-2013 02:54 AM

did the 1” square piece of aluminum attached to the right side of the saw interfere with the bevel adjustor wheel?

not if the flat metal to which the square metal tube is attached is fastened to the outboard edge of the right side extension wing.

Also, did you have to cut underneath the table to allow room for the motor when tilted at a 45.

personally, yes. also, the ridgid forum out feed table thread covers where and how to create a recess in the underside of the fixed extension (~ 12” deep) for the end of the motor that sits just below the table to when the motor is bevelled to 45°.

Is the out feed table totally level with the table if the TS?

most sit 1/16 to 1/8” below the saw’s table top.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#5 posted 09-11-2013 03:16 AM

Thanks toolie-

So to mount that 1” square bar to the right side of the extension wing did you actually drilled into the cast iron portion?

I’ll look around on the rigid forum to see if I can find the how to for the cut out for the motor clearance. I knew I would take “a square chunk” out for the rithing blade and saw guard but I didn’t think I would I have to skim a section of “Thickness” for added clearance for the motor.

Did you use 3/4” or 1/2” plywood?

-- Keith

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#6 posted 09-11-2013 05:45 PM

Toolie-

The light bulb finally went off after I purchased some aluminum and saw how it interfered with the motor when it was at the 45 degree position. It did not interfere with the bevel wheel, but it would not rest level due to the fact it hit the motor!

The flat metal I bought was around 1” wide, so I’m now thinking I need 3” piece to clear all of the rails and table top and still have enough space for the square piece of aluminum to attach.

Did you mount yours on the right side of the cast iron top? Or did you sandwich it in between the wing part of the saw? Drilling into the cast iron makes me a little nervous!!

Thanks, and sorry for being high maintenance! I’m not creative enough to come up with this on my own I guess!

-- Keith

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toolie

2024 posts in 2093 days


#7 posted 09-11-2013 10:30 PM

So to mount that 1” square bar to the right side of the extension wing did you actually drilled into the cast iron portion?

no. i sandwiched the flat iron pieces between the table and the wings on both sides. i overcame the bevel hand wheel problem by getting a handwheel from a ridgid 2410 portable saw which is smaller than the OEM hand wheel.

the WW who posted the ridgid forum thread mounted his riigt side support to the outside of his saw’s right side wing. he drilled the edges of the wing for that purpose and added a router table wing off the right side CI extension wing. check out that thread i linked. it’s quite informative.

for a few dollars more, you can move the bevel hand wheel to the front of the saw, like i did here:

thanks to paul stoops for detailing the process in his blog on mods to his 4511:

http://lumberjocks.com/projects/58567

one nice benefit of this modification is that i can, literally, dial in the bevel angle of the blade anywhere between 90° and 45°. it’s almost as though any”slop” in the bevel mechanism has been removed with the addition of the RA drive. i know that’s not really supposed to be possible, but that’s how the saw now operates, and it’s really nice. when i find the time, i’m going to do the same thing to my 2412.

I’ll look around on the rigid forum to see if I can find the how to for the cut out for the motor clearance.

just use a forstner bit and make overlapping 3/8-1/2” deep recesses in the underside of the fixed outfeed extension (to which the hinged extension table is attached) in the general area where the motor will touch the underside of the fixed out feed extension.

Did you use 3/4” or 1/2” plywood?

3/4” “cabinet grade” plywood from HD. while not baltic birch or apple plywood, it’s quite flat enough for this project and a good CC sled.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#8 posted 09-11-2013 10:55 PM

Thanks again toolie!!! Looks like I need to return my 1” flat stuff and get at least 3” stuff as the cast iron table measures 1 1/2”

I appreciate it!

-- Keith

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#9 posted 09-20-2013 08:50 PM

With the back getting better, I’ve been working on this a little as I can! I got the aluminum attached to the saw, with the flat bar in between both wings of the table top.

I ran a level across both pieces of square aluminum and they were spot on. The only issue is when I put the motor at a 45 degree angle, the motor makes contact with the aluminum bar and raises it quit a bit.

Toolie-

I know you stated you did not mount your flat bar like the original maker of this out feed table, which was between the end of the wing and his router table. How did you prevant the motor from making contact with the aluminum bar?

Thanks,

-- Keith

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#10 posted 09-20-2013 09:57 PM

I may have found a work around. I loosened all for bolts that secure the motor and shifted the entire thing as far right as it will go. I’m not sure if this is okay for the pulleys.

I believe Bob did this too, and I thought I had done this, but it was different screws. A disadvantage since I didn’t originally assemble the saw!

-- Keith

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toolie

2024 posts in 2093 days


#11 posted 09-20-2013 11:48 PM

I’m not sure if this is okay for the pulleys.

the pulleys will need to be checked for coplanarity now that the motor has been shifted on the motor mounting plate. based on my experience with my 2412, i’d bevel the motor some in order to make room for a straight edge across the pulley faces. few adjustments will affect vibration more on that saw than pulley coplanarity. FWIW, i looked at my saw and the motro sits pretty much as far to the right (when viewed from the rear of the saw) as it probably can. my motor does not impact the square tube stock that holds the fixed portion of my outfeed table to me saw.

A disadvantage since I didn’t originally assemble the saw!

then i would humbly suggest going through the OM and walk through the saw’s assembly and set up instructions. a lot can be learned about how a saw functons by doing that. it will also force you to set up the blade and fence properly, which could affect changes you’ve made to facilitate the outfeed table. IOW, set the saw up for performance first, then add accessories, like the outfeed table and shop made ZCIs. just my $.02.

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#12 posted 09-21-2013 12:35 AM

Thanks Toolie-

I’ve been going through it pretty detailed, but deciding to do the out feed table kind of erased some of that! I haven’t played with the pulleys yet so “coplanarity” means nothing to me as of now! I’ll look into how to adjust these! I really have no projects going on right now, so I’m taking my time with the saw.

-- Keith

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toolie

2024 posts in 2093 days


#13 posted 09-21-2013 02:41 AM

coplanarity” means nothing to me as of now

here’s how WOOD magazine covers it:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking-tips/techniques/outfitting-woodworking-shop/tune-up-your-tablesaw/?page=1

as well as a pretty good overall tune up recap:

http://www.woodmagazine.com/wood/pdf/delta/ds-038free.pdf

-- there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

View sakle2k's profile

sakle2k

19 posts in 1493 days


#14 posted 09-21-2013 03:15 AM

Keith, I have the same saw and plan on building a storage cabinet on wheels that will double as a TS outfeed and can also be used as an assembly table. I have a small shop so I’m trying to be smart about how I occupy space, so the more that can be done per square foot. the better.

Here’s a pic from Fine Woodworking.

-- Les

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Medickep

558 posts in 1203 days


#15 posted 09-21-2013 03:53 AM

Sakie2k-

That is a sweet layout, but for now, I’m committed to this one as I’ve started it….and some!

https://www.ridgidforum.com/forum/t7542/

Toolie-

I will check to see that the pulleys are in line. If they’re not, I’m not sure the back one can be adjusted, so I’ll be right back where I’m at. Thanks for the articles!

-- Keith

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