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Wax............Good/Bad?

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Forum topic by rb88 posted 08-27-2013 07:50 PM 1202 views 1 time favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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rb88

7 posts in 591 days


08-27-2013 07:50 PM

Topic tags/keywords: wax arm-r-seal

I am referring to it being used as or with another finish, not in applying it to tools or other shop surfaces.

The more research I do on this product and all the variations of it, the more I get confused. I have used paste wax in the past on a few projects more so just to see what happens and been pleased. So far the only wax I’ve used is Johnson’s paste wax. I’m curious to know what people think about using it on top of other finishes and what they use.

I recently finished a walnut crib with arm-r-seal and was wanting to add wax to the surface too add lusture and in the past I’ve like the smooth feel it leaves. I’m considering using Liberon Black Bison or possibly Georges Club House Wax, mostly because these both seem to be “child-safe”.

How does everyone feel about wax and do you have any experience in using it over arm-r-seal?

Thanks,


13 replies so far

View bondogaposis's profile

bondogaposis

2764 posts in 1105 days


#1 posted 08-27-2013 08:21 PM

If you use the Liberon leave the project outside for at least a week. The odor of that stuff gives off is unbelievable. It is a good product and leaves a great finish, but the smell takes about a week to subside.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View DaddyZ's profile

DaddyZ

2432 posts in 1794 days


#2 posted 08-27-2013 08:24 PM

This is the one I use quite often. I have used poly then wax then more poly, with no visible side effects. same with laquer

I know others here use wax mixed with other finishes all the time.

-- Pat - Worker of Wood, Collector of Tools, Father of one

View Gary's profile (online now)

Gary

7619 posts in 2187 days


#3 posted 08-27-2013 08:40 PM

You need to ask Charles Neil about wax finishes. That would make this thread real interesting

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View rb88's profile

rb88

7 posts in 591 days


#4 posted 08-27-2013 08:47 PM

Bondogaposis – That is interesting to hear about the smell being strong. All of the stuff I have read about that particuliar brand was how pleasent the smell of the wax is.

View Earlextech's profile

Earlextech

1024 posts in 1444 days


#5 posted 08-27-2013 08:51 PM

I only wax things that will be handled alot. While you would think then that a crib would fall into that catagory, you should also consider how much that item will be cleaned. I would rather have a clean crib than a waxed crib. Same for kitchen/bath cabinets, but boxes, humidors, china cabinets, small tables & decorative items I would wax. The more something will be cleaned, the more wax you will remove and then have to replace, that turns into too much work.

-- Sam Hamory - The project is never finished until its "finished"!

View CharlesNeil's profile

CharlesNeil

1172 posts in 2624 days


#6 posted 08-27-2013 08:57 PM

Gary, I like to “lurk” a while :)

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

907 posts in 864 days


#7 posted 08-27-2013 09:39 PM

I’m with Sam, coming from a tactile feel angle…

Rub out a finish, most any film finish, with steel wool and wax, and it feels GREAT to touch. I use it on shellac, lacquer, or varnish, on smaller objects that will be handled a lot, like boxes, or furniture parts that will be touched a lot, like desktops. But… I’m probably not waxing an entire kitchen…

I like lemon scented Goddards on things that will be closed, but often use cheaper and easier to get TreWax or Liberon on larger items.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

6968 posts in 1668 days


#8 posted 08-27-2013 09:53 PM

I use Howard’s Feed-n-Wax on our 1850 Cherry drop-leaf. It adds protection, is NOT hard to wipe/polish and the oils penetrate well into the thirsty 20in leaf panels. I use JPW on other newer pieces that have Varnish and Shellac finishes.

For me, the verdict is still out on waxing shellac’d finishes. My Cobler’s Bench (that I still need to post) with shellac and JPW, is just NOT performing as well as I think it should. At least the finish is being “antiqued” by all the cat/pet traffic, so when I do the “museum finish” with all the distressing, it should look great… LOL…

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1246 posts in 888 days


#9 posted 08-27-2013 10:35 PM

I use nothing but Johnson’s paste wax if going to apply wax. Only reason for applying wax other than making wood feel nice is easier to dust. I only re-apply wax every couple of years or so.

Have used more expensive furniture waxes in the past. Just do not need fancy short lived perfumes. I avoid spray cleaner/polish products because of silicone.

A nice read:
http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/pastewax.htm

-- Bill

View Rick  Dennington's profile

Rick Dennington

3613 posts in 1948 days


#10 posted 08-27-2013 11:23 PM

When I build a piece of furniture, and have 3-4 coats of a good finish, wheather it’s poly or whatever, I like to wait about 2-3 weeks before polishing with wax…..To me, it gives the finish time to dry and cure out…..That’s just me….Some people put it on right after it’s finished…..some wait….I’m a waiter…..

-- " I started with nothing, and I've still got most of it left".......

View Grandpa's profile

Grandpa

3212 posts in 1429 days


#11 posted 08-27-2013 11:29 PM

I use Johnson’s paste wax and I have 50 year old finishes that are holding up well. The main thing is to not use furniture polish. That contains a lot of alcohol that strips the wax off your furniture. It makes dusting easy but plan water on a damp cloth will make dusting easy.

View RichardDragin's profile

RichardDragin

7 posts in 2097 days


#12 posted 08-28-2013 12:55 AM

There is no reason to use wax on today’s modern finishes and it can even be detrimental. Wax will only attract dust and dirt and once you wax you have to periodically reapply the wax. Most finishes if applied correctly will give a smooth feeling surface and if not rubbing them out with a very fine compound will give you the smooth feeling you want.

There are some ageing and highlighting techniques where colored wax is useful but that isn’t what we are discussing here.

Wax is good for protecting metal surfaces, lubricating moving parts and creating a non-stick surface for places you don’t want glue to stick. It is not a good finish for furniture with all the other options available.

View Wildwood's profile

Wildwood

1246 posts in 888 days


#13 posted 08-28-2013 10:58 AM

Richard, disagree with what you have to say about paste wax. I think paste wax will always have its place in wood finishing process.

Neither paste wax nor rubbing out procedure will mask flaws in poorly applied finish. Neither paste wax or rubbing out required for every finish.

Paste wax might be an easier choice to use over oil/waterborne poly finishes. Many finishing experts say rubbing out oil/waterborne finishes very hard or not worth the effort. Paste wax might be excellent choice over penetrating oil, oil varnish blend finish. Point trying to make simply time and place for different materials & techniques.

Rubbing out a finish today involves more than fine compounds. Many wood workers today do not know about or use pumice and rottenstone today. Yes, fine auto compounds work too, but leave that for your car.

Richard do agree knowing how and when rubbing out a finish important; those tips, trick, and techniques for rubbing or buffing out a finish demands a new thread.

-- Bill

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