|Forum topic by Jim100percent||posted 339 days ago||1799 views||0 times favorited||12 replies|
339 days ago
Hello, everyone. First time poster, long time lurker. And thank god I did lurk; I’ve found tons of great tips here, tips that saved me a bunch of time and mistakes. So, thanks for that! (I’ve also caught your handplanes bug. A year and a half ago I owned one cheapo block plane. Now I own three, plus an old Stanley and a new Stanley Jackplane, plus an antique shoulder plane. Now whenever we go antique-hunting / flea marketing I am obsessed with old tools. Just rescued a bunch of old hand tools from my Dad’s basement (Grandpa and Great Grandpa were woodworkers as a hobby). Bits and braces… push drills… and Grandpas old block plane (a cheap model, but sentimental) Maybe there is a vaccine / treatment for this obsession?
OK, so my next project will be a workbench. As I said, there has been tons of great information I’ve gotten from here. I had planned on using 2 thicknesses of 3/4” plywood laminated together, but someone mentioned going to Habitat for Humanity and finding a used solid-core door (I had considered that already, but new they were too expensive). Great suggestion, found a monster 3’0” x 6’7” 1 23/32” thick industrial door. It’s already drilled and had a lockset- already removed. Now I need to cut it down to fit the space I have.
I have two questions, first am I better off cutting it to size with my old (It was my dads, so like 25 years old at least) Black and Decker circular saw (with a new blade) (with a piece of blue foam board underneath) or with my Ridgid 4512 Tablesaw with a freud combo blade? I don’t have an outfeed table (the new bench will be sized appropriately so that I can use it for that), but I do have a roller support (and a wife for extra hands). I am concerned that I may need to make two passes to cut through the monster (FYI its core is USB-like chips pressed and glued)- should I plan on two passes, or just try one?
Second, is there any easy way to avoid chip-out? Will just putting masking tape along the cutline work? Should I score the cut line with a razor or with a 1/8” pass of the saw? I am hoping to make this bench look as nice as I can.
For more info: I am a novice: I’ve built lots of Adirondacks, an oak Morris Chair (that turned out amazing), a couple of porch-swings, and some frames. My TS is new (and I love it- especially for the price). I go slow in order to avoid any mistakes. As my grandma used to say: “The hurrier I go, the behinder I get.”
I already have the vise hardware purchased, and can’t wait to get it all together. Thanks for any advice y’all can give!