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Forum topic by Medickep posted 08-26-2013 12:22 AM 2121 views 0 times favorited 96 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Medickep

367 posts in 404 days


08-26-2013 12:22 AM

So, I made the decision to finally get a TS and should be picking up a Rigid TS3650 tomorrow morning if it’s as good as it appears.

I’m not surprise they make a plethora of accessories for these but was curious which ones were a MUST!

If it has the stock blade, I replace it with one for ripping plywood and one for finer crosscuts and will use knoscotts’ guide to help me figure that out. I don’t see myself make dado cuts right away!

Since I’m new to TS work I’m not to sure which ones are a must for right now as money is not limitless! I see they make cleaner to keep rust off the table top, zero clearance plates at multiple angles push sticks and guides as well as a dado blade, which I can’t believe cost as much as they do.

What do you think?

Thanks,

-- Keith


96 replies so far

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firefighterontheside

4493 posts in 523 days


#1 posted 08-26-2013 01:31 AM

Push sticks(several so that one is always handy), push blocks with foam base, crosscut sled(you can make it), I made a 45 deg. one. I use regular car wax for the top.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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TechRedneck

738 posts in 1523 days


#2 posted 08-26-2013 01:46 AM

Bill had some good advice.

In addition, search this site and YouTube on how to properly tune your new machine. This includes making sure the tracks are aligned to the blade and the fence aligned to the tracks. Do this and learn this first. Once the saw is properly tuned you are ready to cut.

Get a good blade. They can be pricey but last a long time and are well worth the money. Freud, WWII are good investments. Save the stock blade for cutting MDF and crappy ply. When I got my new saw, the stock blade made a ringing noise so I put it on the old saw and gave it to they guy who purchased it. I was already a Freud convert and never looked back.

So, a good quality square, and dial gauge would be my first accessories.

-- Mike.... West Virginia. "Man is a tool using animal. Without tools he is nothing, with tools he is all.". T Carlyle

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Medickep

367 posts in 404 days


#3 posted 08-26-2013 01:50 AM

Thanks guys for the tips, I’m sure I have a lot to learn on how to setup this thing up if it’s not already. I like the idea of the car wax Bill!

I would love to get a blade for less than 100 dollars!

Where are you a FF at? I’m one hear in Oregon.

-- Keith

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DKV

3174 posts in 1170 days


#4 posted 08-26-2013 01:54 AM

Extra fingers…

-- Have fun and laugh alot. Life can end at any moment. You old guys out there know that.

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firefighterontheside

4493 posts in 523 days


#5 posted 08-26-2013 02:41 AM

I work at a fire dept. about 30 miles south of St Louis MO. I just sold my old Bendix king radio to a guy in OR. I used to do wild land firefighting and the last fire I went to was the Lake George fire outside of Sisters OR in 2006.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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firefighterontheside

4493 posts in 523 days


#6 posted 08-26-2013 02:44 AM

I use Freud blades. They’re good but not the most expensive.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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CharlesA

1519 posts in 464 days


#7 posted 08-26-2013 02:51 AM

Grr-ripper. Best TS accessory I have. Better blades make a huge difference, and Freuds don’t cost a fortune. Make yourself a crosscut sled. ShopNotes had plans for a really nice one as few more the back.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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redSLED

687 posts in 559 days


#8 posted 08-26-2013 02:53 AM

Saw a thread on here last month about people’s workshop minor injuries – the vast MAJORITY of which were from using table saws. So after 15+ years of using table saws, I’ve compiled safety reminders below for my review as well as for anyone getting their first table saw who might read this thread:

—Always be alert and methodical when using your table saw.
—Don’t make risky cuts without guides/jigs, cross cut sled or push sticks.
—Stick to safety basics: no loose long sleeves, use safety glasses, area clear of obstacles, etc.
—And, do not use table saw when:
- physically worn down
- mentally tired
- emotionally stressed
- distracted
- pressed for time (trying to finish a project really fast)
- after “only 1 beer”

Otherwise, keep making sawdust with your table saw!

-- Perfection is the difference between too much and not enough.

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Moron

4666 posts in 2560 days


#9 posted 08-26-2013 03:02 AM

watch “U Tube”

its like the wikipedia of ever changing BS.

good luck

-- "Good artists borrow, great artists steal”…..Picasso

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SteveKnnn

66 posts in 555 days


#10 posted 08-26-2013 03:11 AM

+1 on the Grrriper
+1 on a crosscut sled
Any wax should be furniture was rather than auto wax—no silicone!
Good blade, a good combination blade will start you well, and you might never want specialty blades.

-- Steve in Richmond, VA

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Medickep

367 posts in 404 days


#11 posted 08-26-2013 03:27 AM

The Freud blades seem to be popular, I’ll look close at them. Probably start with a plywood one first. I have a 90 tooth Dewault for my chop saw, so I can cross cut on it until I can afford another blade for the TS.

Sisters has no shortage of wildland fires in that area!

redsled, thanks for the safety tips too. I’m sure it’s easy to get complacent with safety, just like at work! Good reminders!

-- Keith

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Marcus

1053 posts in 686 days


#12 posted 08-26-2013 03:35 AM

My favorite and most used accessory (besides push sticks) is my magnetic feather board. It’s too simple not to use.

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Medickep

367 posts in 404 days


#13 posted 08-26-2013 03:36 AM

Marcus-

I saw a lot of those at a Woodcraft website with a variety of prices, but at this point (the night before I get my first TS), I don’t even know what they do!

The Grriper really seems like a serious push stick! What’s the difference between the 100 and 200?

-- Keith

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tefinn

1211 posts in 1103 days


#14 posted 08-26-2013 04:02 AM

Get yourself some books on table saw set up and use. Then read them! It will really help you to “see” what is being talked about here (for example: feather boards). A good square and angle gauge will aid in the set up of your saw. Congrats and good luck with your new saw!

-- Tom Finnigan - Measures? We don't need no stinking measures! - Hmm, maybe thats why my project pieces don't fit.

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CharlesA

1519 posts in 464 days


#15 posted 08-26-2013 05:15 AM

I’ve found the Grr-ripper 100 to be sufficient for my needs. I’d like to get a second one, but the larger outboard platform piece on the 200 doesn’t seem worth the extra $’s for me. I have a magnetic featherboard, and find it really helpful at times.

The other major thing is a Zero Clearance Insert. I use the Leescraft for my primary one, but I’ve made several homemade ones using the Leescraft as a template for particular dado profiles, etc.

Here’s the crosscut sled I made from Shop Notes:

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

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