What table saw blade should I buy....

  • Advertise with us

« back to Power Tools, Hardware and Accessories forum

Forum topic by LordBTN posted 08-24-2013 08:33 PM 1534 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View LordBTN's profile


6 posts in 1159 days

08-24-2013 08:33 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw blades

Hello all,

I am just getting my start in wood working, I do all my work in a shared shop environment ( ) Its really nice as they have a full shop with tools from JET. They have a jet 10in and 12in table saw. The saws are great but as we get more members the blades are getting dull very very fast and I think its time to buy my own. I like to make boxes and looking to make some larger furniture. What blade should I go with. I have been reading reviews on here and only seem to get more confused. I don’t have alot to invest so I am thinking one combo blade may be the way to go but would love to get some feedback.

List of Questions…

1) What saw should I buy for 10in or 12in?

2) Should I get a combo blade or save up and get a rip and cross cut?

3) what brand? Irwin Marples, Freud, Diablo? Are there higher end that are better?

Thanks for any help

-- Where I work

17 replies so far

View Grandpa's profile


3256 posts in 2097 days

#1 posted 08-24-2013 08:49 PM

1. 10 inch
2. I like once of each (crosscut and rip)
3. Other brands are also good and maybe better. Contact Knotscot and he can probably direct you to the best buy right now. He is really the Guru on table saws and accessories on here. Everyone looks to him for solid advice. There are others that are also knowledgeable but I don’t know them and can’t remember their names. Knot is on top of table saws though.

View Tommy Evans's profile (online now)

Tommy Evans

137 posts in 1596 days

#2 posted 08-24-2013 11:57 PM

Use this link to see a list of blog posts by Knotscot about table saw blades. Scroll down four posts.

View SteveKnnn's profile


66 posts in 1310 days

#3 posted 08-25-2013 03:28 AM

Make sure you consider Forrest too.

-- Steve in Richmond, VA

View JamesT's profile


102 posts in 1334 days

#4 posted 08-25-2013 02:43 PM

If you don’t have a lot to spend, I would recommended a Oshlun 10”, 50 tooth combination from Carbide Processors. If you can buy two blades, get a Oshlun 24 tooth rip and a Oshlun 40 tooth general purpose. Oshlun blades are the best kept secret in woodworking. IMHO.

-- Jim from Doniphan

View bondogaposis's profile


3969 posts in 1773 days

#5 posted 08-25-2013 03:07 PM

You can get by w/ a combo blade pretty well. This is the one I like. Of course if you only have one blade it gets dull faster than if you are using two so eventually you will want to get a rip blade as well. I only use my rip blade when I have a lot of ripping to do otherwise I leave the combo blade in so i can both rip and crosscut w/o having to change blades. That has been my system over many years and it works well for me. Also find a saw sharpening shop in your area, over time you will need their services and you can rotate through several blades and always have a sharp one on hand.

-- Bondo Gaposis

View yrob's profile


340 posts in 3074 days

#6 posted 08-25-2013 03:16 PM

I would get a rip blade,a crosscut blade and maybe a plywood blade as well. Personally, I have found Freud blades to be of excellent quality and a good compromise between quality and price. I have a thin kerf rip saw blade (LU87R) and a thin kerf crosscut blade (LU88R) as well as a plywood/melanime blade (LU96R). With these three blades, I can do all my work and I have been very happy with the quality of cuts.

-- Yves

View LordBTN's profile


6 posts in 1159 days

#7 posted 08-25-2013 05:08 PM

Thanks for the feed back all,
From everything I have read even the cheapest sharp blade is going to be better then the extremely dull blades at the shop. I have read some really good stuff about this one. Once I use this one a little I will know better what to get in the future.

I am thinking of getting the Marples 50 tooth ( )

-- Where I work

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#8 posted 08-25-2013 06:33 PM

A good general purpose or combo blade is a reasonable starting point for anyone IMO….versatile and easy to use….you can always add dedicated blades later on if you choose. You mentioned the blade size and the brand of the saws, but not the models or motor size. It’s worth noting, and it’s worth finding out the width of the splitters/riving knives on the saws you use….if the blade kerf is narrower than the width of the splitter knife, binding can occur mid-cut and cause a potentially dangerous situation. Saws of 3hp or more are generally stout enough to use 1/8” full kerf blades without any strain or bogging. If they’re less than 3hp, then a 3/32” thin kerf blade like the Marples will pose less strain and resistance. If you

If you end up pursuing a full kerf blade, the Delta 35-7657 for < $30 shipped the best bargain I know of on a full kerf industrial quality general purpose blade. If you end up sticking with the TK, the Marples is a solid choice in that price range, as are the Diablo or DW Precision Trim series. There are better blades, but there’s a big price increase. Please let us know how you make out.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View LordBTN's profile


6 posts in 1159 days

#9 posted 08-25-2013 10:19 PM

The 10in is 3hp and the 12in is 5hp.

-- Where I work

View knotscott's profile


7146 posts in 2797 days

#10 posted 08-25-2013 11:14 PM

The 10in is 3hp and the 12in is 5hp

Not much incentive to use a TK blade then IMHO. Full kerf blades tend to be more stable, and handle stress better. You’re also much less likely to encounter binding on the splitter with a full kerf blade. This list of bargains can prevent the need to spend big bucks if you’d rather not.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Woodbum's profile


716 posts in 2487 days

#11 posted 08-26-2013 01:27 PM

Consider Forrest full kerf WWII. It is the best combo blade available IMHO. They have a great resharpening service when the blade need sharpening. A little more money up front, but overall cost of ownership makes it a bargain. Good folks in a family owned US business making a great product. They also make great riplades and dado sets too, and a full line of specialty blades.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View HumidorMinister's profile


412 posts in 2805 days

#12 posted 08-26-2013 06:02 PM

I have a Diablo on my saw at work, it gets used daily. i haven’t had to put a sharp blade on in months. i don’t know if it’s because the materials I’ve been cutting are user friendly or what. All I know is I’ve done thousands of cuts and it’s still going strong. I have a stack of sharp blades so if it even showed any signs what so ever I’d swap it. Still cuts like butter. As far as a saw goes, check CL & other places & try to find a used cabinet saw. You may be able to pick one up for the price of a new contractor saw. Best of luck on your projects, welcome to the vortex.

-- What you listen to is your business...what you hear is ours.

View pintodeluxe's profile


4825 posts in 2235 days

#13 posted 08-26-2013 06:13 PM

I look at tooth count mostly. Since you have powerful saws at your disposal, a thin kerf blade is optional.
I haven’t loved my full kerf Freud 50 tooth combination blade. It struggles with ripping 8/4 stock. I use it to cut flat bottom grooves for frame and panel assemblies. I like the 1024 Freud Diablo thin kerf 24 tooth blade for ripping thick stock. I have fine crosscut blades in the 60-80 tooth range, but I never use them.

My next blade will probably be in the 30-40 tooth range, perhaps a Freud Fusion. I don’t mind swapping blades to make a flat bottomed groove, but I don’t want to switch blades between crosscutting and ripping.
On a personal note, I use a lot of M & T construction, so the dado blade is making the final crosscut, not the 10” T.S. blade. Also, with frame and panels the edge is hidden in a groove, so cut quality is not so important. I guess that is why I have used my 1024 blade so much.
For crosscuts that need a fine finish, I use my miter saw set up with an 80 tooth Freud blade.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Bill White's profile

Bill White

4408 posts in 3382 days

#14 posted 08-26-2013 07:52 PM

Buy a blade that fits the purpose. I’ve got TK crosscuts, TK rippers, Full kerf combos.
In my mind, it’s kinda like askin’ a street car to compete on a round track, a jeep to be a dragster, etc.
It may sound like a cost intensive investment, but ya gets what ya pays for.
BTW, a combo stays on my saw until I have some dedicated work. Not to sound like an oxymoron. Lots of rip….put on the ripper, lots of fine cross cuts….put on the 80 tooth, blah, blah.


View LordBTN's profile


6 posts in 1159 days

#15 posted 11-05-2013 04:00 PM

Just to follow up I went with Irwin Tools 1807368 Marples Laser Cut 10-Inch 50-Tooth ATB and it has been working great. Cuts everything I have thrown at it with no burning. I have been making some cutting boards and the thiner kerf is nice as it wastes less.

-- Where I work

showing 1 through 15 of 17 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics