How to epoxy a knot

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Forum topic by Mark Shultz posted 08-22-2013 01:21 PM 1947 views 0 times favorited 17 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark Shultz

105 posts in 2386 days

08-22-2013 01:21 PM

Anybody care to share (or can refer me to) a step by step guide to how epoxy in a knot? i have bought West Systems epoxy and have glued up a large bench, with a somewhat loose knot in the middle. I guess my first question is how full to fill the knot? half way, dry, then a second batch to fill it in? or fill it in all at once? does the stuff shrink like glue – should i over fill it? i’m going to be hand sanding the whole bench since my skills with a plane are questionable
many thanks.

17 replies so far

View distrbd's profile


2252 posts in 2442 days

#1 posted 08-22-2013 01:36 PM

I have done it once with Gorilla Epoxy but the process should be the same ,I did over fill it all in one shot,and sanded it later.
The guy inthe following you tube clip has a two part epoxy and adds in some saw dust from the same wood he’s repairing .
Good luck.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

View abie's profile


874 posts in 3767 days

#2 posted 08-22-2013 02:24 PM

I have used CA glue to hold in knots
place some tape on one side and then fill with the thin CA glue
If you have more slop,room, try the medium and let set overnight
worked for me.

-- Bruce. a mind is like a book it is only useful when open.

View johnstoneb's profile


2914 posts in 2168 days

#3 posted 08-22-2013 02:32 PM

Epoxy will run into all the small holes around the knot so you may have to put on a second batch to fill slightly above the knot. Once it has cured scrape and or sand level with the bench surface. Mixing in some sawdust would help hide the repair if you are so inclined.

-- Bruce, Boise, ID

View Lee Barker's profile

Lee Barker

2170 posts in 2846 days

#4 posted 08-22-2013 02:40 PM

Add sparkles to the epoxy instead of sawdust. They’ll all be baffled.



-- " his brain, which is as dry as the remainder biscuit after a voyage, he hath strange places cramm'd with observation, the which he vents in mangled forms." --Shakespeare, "As You Like It"

View Sanding2day's profile


1013 posts in 1842 days

#5 posted 08-22-2013 02:44 PM

:) +1 for Sparkles… What workbench is complete without sparkles :P

-- Dan

View Mark Shultz's profile

Mark Shultz

105 posts in 2386 days

#6 posted 08-22-2013 07:23 PM

thanks for the posts. i’m all out of pixie sparkle however.
links + youtube search seems to imply this real easy.
votes on adding in sawdust or chips vs plain epoxy? have a high resolution photo of both to compare?

View MisterBill's profile


411 posts in 2247 days

#7 posted 08-22-2013 08:05 PM

A couple of other thoughts:

1.) Place some masking tape around the perimeter of the knot that you are going to fill. This will limit the spread of the epoxy and it will save you some sanding.

2.) After you have slightly overfilled the knot, cover the fresh epoxy with a piece of waxpaper. Then clamp a flat piece of scrap wood over the waxpaper. This will force the epoxy into the void and the waxpaper will prevent the board from sticking to your bench.

3.) Add saw dust to your epoxy!

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2656 posts in 2918 days

#8 posted 08-23-2013 12:26 AM

I occasionally have to fill in cracks in knots in eastern red cedar and I use a product called “z-poxy” which is a thin finishing epoxy. (At my local hobby shop) It will run right through a tight knot so I put masking tape on the backside of the knot first.

-- Website is No PHD just a DD214 and a GED

View gfadvm's profile


14940 posts in 2686 days

#9 posted 08-23-2013 02:36 AM

Don’t forget to tape the underside of the knot to keep the epoxy from leaking out of the bottom. Watch for bubbles as the epoxy cures and pop them before it sets up.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2351 days

#10 posted 08-23-2013 03:02 AM

sparkles or you can add rit dye in to dye it closer to the natural color of the not..

Baffled by the sparkles though.. never have had any at a work bench (sighs) I guess I just don’t know what I’m missing.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View JAAune's profile


1798 posts in 2312 days

#11 posted 08-23-2013 03:09 AM

My procedure typically is a single application of epoxy thickened with sawdust. I leave a little mound sticking up and sand it flat after it cures.

Sometimes I’ll add a little dye to the mixture if I really want it to match closely.

For tiny cracks I apply super glue then sand over the top to mix sawdust into the glue.

-- See my work at and

View RobsonValley's profile


31 posts in 1759 days

#12 posted 08-23-2013 04:34 AM

Seal the underside/back side with some sort of tape.
Fill the void with sand, sparkles, beads, neighbor children, anything to turn a fault into a feature.
Epoxy has good dimensional stability so don’t over fill it by much. I used a liter/quart a week for 4 years so have a good idea of the working characters of 5 or six different brews.
Sawdust + epoxy is a mess that will forever look like sawdust + epoxy.

View Canadian Woodworks's profile

Canadian Woodworks

702 posts in 3066 days

#13 posted 08-23-2013 12:14 PM

Thanks for linking to my video.

I work with a lot of Walnut which always seem to have dark black surrounding knots or bark inclusions. I have now got pigments that mix into the epoxy, I usually use a dab of black. Tape off the area, fill it enough to leave a mound and sand or scrape down.

-- Paul Lemiski, Ontario Canada, Custom Wooden Rocking chairs and tables

View trz's profile


90 posts in 2482 days

#14 posted 08-25-2013 09:03 PM

what do you use for sparkles?

View MT_Stringer's profile


3168 posts in 3227 days

#15 posted 08-25-2013 09:12 PM

I have a few knots in some white pine. I am trying to decide if I should fill the cracks before or after I stain the wood.

I haven’t seen any comments about that yet.


-- Handcrafted by Mike Henderson - Channelview, Texas

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