Miter saw to complement TS?

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Forum topic by firstbase posted 08-21-2013 07:28 PM 1661 views 0 times favorited 13 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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35 posts in 2051 days

08-21-2013 07:28 PM

Ordered my new table saw (Grizz 0690) and am now looking to complement it with a miter saw. Again, general residential/homeowner woodworking, first projects are hardwood floors, tongue and groove ceiling, a large shed out back, some deck boxes, cabinets for the shed and garage, etc. Can do much of this on the table saw but of course the longer pieces involved get out of control. Will be keeping it on a table or mobile stand in the same place for the most part so traveling in the back of a truck to a job site day in day out not an issue. Will pull it out from the wall to use. Haven’t really narrowed down the type much less model. Bigger is generally better with a table saw for the most part but not really sure about that being true with a CMS. What type IS a good complement for my type of use? HD has the Dewalt DWS718SP for $399 right now which seems hard to beat dollar-wise. A 12”, slider, double bevel CMS. BUT….it has that space requirement behind for the arms. I could work around it but it would be nice to find one of the swing arm types….the big Bosch glider for a billion dollars and I believe Hitachi has one that uses another system to keep it more compact. Maybe I don’t “need” 12” at all. What would you suggest? Any comments welcomed!

13 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile


8540 posts in 3768 days

#1 posted 08-21-2013 07:36 PM

really depends on what molding you are planning to use. if its just for the flooring a regular (non sliding) saw would be more than enough. if you want to install deep/tall moldings – then the sliding saws start to give you more option in terms of reach/depth of cut.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View crank49's profile


4032 posts in 3091 days

#2 posted 08-21-2013 07:59 PM

My miter saw is very important part of my shop. But it’s fairly old, cast iron Delta CMS from pre 1998..
I’m looking to upgrade also.
I think I would like a slider, probably a 10” instead of a 12”.
- Two reasons for 10”. 1. I already have several good 10” blades. 2. I’d be afraid the 12” might have more slop and weaker structure.

Features that would be important for me (maybe not you) are the ability to cut a 4X4, cross cut 12” 2X stock, tall fence and minimum space requirement behind the saw; that last feature is hard to get with a slider.
The best deal on a saw to suit my needs is possibly the 10” Makita with Hypoid drive and double slide rails. YMMV of course.

View jumbojack's profile


1681 posts in 2744 days

#3 posted 08-21-2013 08:06 PM

I have an old ‘chop’ saw that travels. I use my RAS for crosscuts in the shop.

-- Made in America, with American made tools....Shopsmith

View knotscott's profile


8122 posts in 3495 days

#4 posted 08-21-2013 08:18 PM

Everyone’s siutation and needs are different, but I do ~ 99% of my crosscuts on the TS….with a good miter gauge it’s simply easier and more accurate than my CMS. I only use the CMS for really long pieces like molding…it’s a fairly cheap Ryobi made Sears, but with a good blade it cuts fine. You may want to consider whether or not you have a $400 need before plunking down good money on a less used tool.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Loco's profile


210 posts in 1869 days

#5 posted 08-21-2013 08:22 PM

If your wallet can handle it try out a Metabo.

-- What day is it ? No matter. Ummmm What month is it ? No moron. I paid for a 2 x 6. That means Two inches by six inches. I want the rest of my wood.

View mbs's profile


1657 posts in 3060 days

#6 posted 08-21-2013 08:26 PM

I have a few miter saws. Here’s my opinion.

Some sliding miters are designed poorly and take up a lot of working space in the rear of the saw because the sliding mechanism moves backward. Another poor design feature is when the sliding bars are mounted vertically and the head of the saw is hanging off to one side of the bars rather than hanging between the bars.

The non sliding saws are potentially more accurate and leave a better cut because there are less moving parts.

I recommend getting a saw that has VERY BIG scales. Some of he saws are difficult to set at the correct angle because the scale is too small.

Lasers are nice but in the Bosch I used recently the laser went out prematurely. I replaced it and within a month it went out. The blade that comes with the Bosch is junk too. I did like the built in table extensions and hold down clamps though. The dust collection on all the saws I used (except Festool) is horrible.

I recently got a Festool Kapex which appears to have overcome the issues I mention above but it doesn’t have the table extensions that are standard with the bosch. It does have two lasers and a nice angle finder which bisects the the angle you physically measure. Unfortunately, the Kapex costS a bazillion dollars.

-- Sorry the reply is so long. I didn't have time to write a short reply.

View CharlesA's profile


3339 posts in 1917 days

#7 posted 08-21-2013 08:32 PM

I went for a non-sliding 12” because I wanted larger capacity, but I don’t have room for a slider. With a good blade, a miter saw can make some nice cuts.

-- "Man is the only animal which devours his own, for I can apply no milder term to the general prey of the rich on the poor." ~Thomas Jefferson

View toolie's profile


2143 posts in 2748 days

#8 posted 08-21-2013 09:13 PM

when 10” miter saws were last tested by wood magazine, the makita slider with two sets of sliding rails took the top tool award. it’s a really good miter saw. too bad HD seems to have removed it from their product offerings in favor of a 10” ridgid slider. personally, i have a 10 YO delta 10” miter saw that does everything i need to do. coupled with a refurbished 10” c-man mid 60s vintage RAS, i never miss not having a slider. and a RAS doesn’t need to take up a lot of room if it’s positioned properly so items can be stored around it and the space below is utilized for storage.

-- there's a solution to every just have to be willing to find it.

View Bluepine38's profile


3379 posts in 3205 days

#9 posted 08-22-2013 02:52 PM

The older RAS and CMS had the motor mounted directly to the saw arbor, this limited the depth of cut. The
newer CMS have raised the motor and drive the blade through a belt which gives you about a 3” depth of cut
with a 10” saw. I bought a 12” Delta CMS with the laser about 10 years ago to get the extra depth of cut,
and yes I bought a good blade for finish cuts. I have been thinking about the new sliding saws, but have not
come up with a good reason for buying one, other than it would look nice in the shop. If you are sure you
will not need the extra depth of cut, then a 10” is fine, if you will need the extra depth, it will cost more to
buy a second saw later. I have never regretted having too much saw or power, but have regretted not having

-- As ever, Gus-the 79 yr young apprentice carpenter

View TheDane's profile


5516 posts in 3783 days

#10 posted 08-22-2013 03:05 PM

I went through the same sort of process a few months ago … wound up buying a Hitachi 12” SCMS. I’m happy as a clam with it.

-- Gerry -- "I don't plan to ever really grow up ... I'm just going to learn how to act in public!"

View Jim Finn's profile

Jim Finn

2670 posts in 3042 days

#11 posted 08-23-2013 12:33 AM

I have a 12” DeWalt slider and it has served me will now for over 13 years. I do ALL my cross cutting with it so I keep a rip blade in my table saw. I do not use plywood so this works well for me. When this aging DeWalt dies I think I will get a 10” saw.

-- No PHD just a DD214 Website>

View firefighterontheside's profile


18864 posts in 1976 days

#12 posted 08-23-2013 12:51 AM

For myself I have a 12” dewalt single bevel non slider. Has served me well for about 15 years. I would recommend either that or a 10” slider, but I see no need for a slider when you have a nice table saw. I would recommend a double bevel though. I have always been a dewalt guy, but I think you could do well with a hitachi. The only cross cuts I do on the TS are plywood and those wider than the capacity of my miter saw.

-- Bill M. "People change, walnut doesn't" by Gene.

View cutworm's profile


1075 posts in 2913 days

#13 posted 08-23-2013 12:56 AM

Myself, I have a 12” Ridgid sliding but if I were buying again I would go with a 10” slider. Smaller and nearly as much cut capacity. Blades are cheaper too. I made a crosscut sled for the TS and don’t use a miter saw much except for cutting long boards.

-- Steve - "Never Give Up"

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