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Forum topic by Indywar posted 366 days ago 591 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Indywar

6 posts in 379 days


366 days ago

I have just started in woodworking and I made the top for a lazy susan (shown). I was wondering if people could give be some advice.

I made a lazy susan, and last night started staining. The piece contains 2 pieces of pine glued together. After sanding I used the Minwax stain conditioner per manufacturer instructions, and then applied the stain. There is a significant difference in the staining of the 2 halves. I left the stain on ~ 10 minutes on all areas and then removed. For this lazy susan I am not all that concerned about the uniforimty, but I want to learn from this for future projects.

So my question: Is there anything I should have done to get a more consistent look?

Thanks for any advice,
Rob


9 replies so far

View Loco's profile

Loco

210 posts in 375 days


#1 posted 366 days ago

Sure do ! Buy real wood like Oak,Walnut,Maple or Mahogany. Pine is for concrete forms and Kmart furniture.
Follow the scriptures of El Loco !
Loco 1, verse 1: He who begineth with Chit-eth, winding up with chit-eth !

-- What day is it ? No matter. Ummmm What month is it ? No moron. I paid for a 2 x 6. That means Two inches by six inches. I want the rest of my wood.

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pintodeluxe

3318 posts in 1439 days


#2 posted 366 days ago

Two things to keep in mind…
1. Hardwoods absorb stain more evenly, and are less prone to streaking and blotching (except cherry).

2. Stains with a high solids content, and low dye content tend to even out the tone of wood better. Examples include Rodda, Varathane, and Cabot brand oil based stains.
Stains high in dye content (like Minwax) are more prone to streaking and blotching.

Here are some of my sample boards, which show what different brands of stain look like.
http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/35559

Good luck with your projects!

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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Grandpa

3073 posts in 1301 days


#3 posted 366 days ago

Apply a light coat of sanding sealer. Let that dry and apply attain over it then finish. check that on a sample block.

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Indywar

6 posts in 379 days


#4 posted 366 days ago

For what it is worth, the stain used was a custom color Cabot oil based stain.

Rob

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pintodeluxe

3318 posts in 1439 days


#5 posted 366 days ago

Wow! That is funny. Cabot takes on a whole different look on hardwoods.

If you like softwoods, or cherry… you might try grandpa’s suggestion of a sanding sealer.
I have used Zinssner’s seal coat, thinned 3 parts seal coat : 2 parts denatured alcohol prior to staining.
I had good results with that. That ratio was just enough sealer to prevent blotching, yet allowed me to get the walnut color I was after.
Cheers

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1420 posts in 986 days


#6 posted 366 days ago

Pine is for painting, not staining. It ain’t worth ferking with.

-- Clint Searl.............We deserve what we tolerate

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Finisherman

195 posts in 475 days


#7 posted 365 days ago

Next time, there are a few things that you can do to achieve more consistent results. A gel stain sometimes, though not always, colours pine without splotching. Another option would involve treating the wood with either Charles Neil’s blotch control or a thin cut of shellac, or sanding sealer prior to staining, as already mentioned above. Finally, if you eventually embark into the wonderful world of spraying, you can mix a compatible stain or dye with your topcoat and use the coloured finish to shade or tone your work. Finally, always test your stain on a scrap of the same type of wood that you’ve used to build the item before you commit to applying it to your project.

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Indywar

6 posts in 379 days


#8 posted 365 days ago

Thanks for the comments Pintodeluxe (nice job comparing the stains), Finisherman and Grandpa. For additional clarification, the lazy susan top (1st picture in posting) was not the first piece I used the pre-conditioner and stain combo. I have attached pictures of the potato bin which I used the exact same technique: same wood, same pre-stain conditioner, same stain that was used for lazy susan top (only ~ 1 week separated the staining of the 2 items), which is why I am trying to better understand why one shows inconsistent color and the other does not.

I was doing some research online, and there was a posting comparing 1 coat shellac, 2 coats shellac, 1 coat Charles Neil’s blotch control, and 2 coats Charles Neil’s blotch control-all before staining. The Charles Neil’s blotch control appeared superior, with a consistent color throughout, while the shellac did not allow much of the stain color, especially with 2 coats. Any idea if these is available in retail stores, or is it just online?

I am not sure the composition of the Miniwax pre-conditioner. How does the shellac or sanding sealer affect the wood. Is it filling in the pores, sealing the pores, etc. and do you know how that differs from the pre-stain conditioner?
Thanks again for the advice.
Rob

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CharlesNeil

1127 posts in 2496 days


#9 posted 365 days ago

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