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Sharpening a 10" table saw blade

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Forum topic by Jofa posted 08-20-2013 01:35 PM 2150 views 0 times favorited 14 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Jofa

272 posts in 1304 days


08-20-2013 01:35 PM

I have a Delta 10” table saw that my aunt gave me after my cousin passed away. It’s a good saw and the fence is accurate. I love the fact that I can use this saw as my cousin Neil was like a big brother to me all my life.

I’m still using the original blade and it’s definitely past it’s prime. I’m considering buying a new blade for it but I also wanted to see if I could sharpen the one that’s on there.

I have a Dremel and was wondering how difficult it is to sharpen one of these things. Not sure if the teeth are C2 or C3 if that makes a difference.

Any advice is appreciated.

-- Thank you Lord for the passion and ability to make things from your creation.


14 replies so far

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Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#1 posted 08-20-2013 03:01 PM

It is difficult to sharpen carbide without special equipment.

I wouldn’t bother trying to sharpen the one you have
yourself, though you can have it done by a sharpening
shop and the blade may be worth it.

The blade may be dirty. It can be cleaned by soaking
in a water/simple green (or similar cleanser) mixture
to loosen stuck-on pitch and scrubbed with a
soft bristle brush to get it clean. Oven cleaner
works too but it is nasty stuff.

View BigMig's profile

BigMig

385 posts in 2079 days


#2 posted 08-20-2013 03:02 PM

I “try” lots of things in my shop and around the house, but I recently chose to send my combination blade out to be sharpened. AND I didn’t consider for one second to do it myself. This is a specialty and I knew lt leave it to the pros. Using a high speed tool to work carbide teeth – to me – seems like a bad idea.

Forrest sharpened and replaced a tooth on this blade and shipped it back to me for about $40. If you live on the left coast, shipping would be higher.

-- Mike from Lansdowne, PA

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unbob

718 posts in 1369 days


#3 posted 08-20-2013 04:25 PM

I found a shop not too far from me in Walla Walla Wa.- “WW saw” on Pine st.
I took in a 12” rip blade missing 2 teeth and with triple chip grind. Redone for $35.
Super nice blade now, older blade brand unknown.
The triple chip grind is fairly complicated, the beveled tooth is slightly ahead of the side cutting teeth, they did a fine job.
A reasonable test of sharpness, the top of a tooth should scratch a finger nail, if it doesn’t its dull, or too dull for me anyway.
I think a dull blade is dangerous.

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distrbd

2227 posts in 1912 days


#4 posted 08-20-2013 04:37 PM

The rule of thumb for me is:if the blade is less than $90 new and is missing more than a tooth + sharpening,I’ll buy a new one .
The old blades are great to cut wood for neighbors and kids in the neighborhood since you never know what size nail or pellets hiding inside them lol.

-- Ken from Ontario, Canada

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Loco

210 posts in 1215 days


#5 posted 08-20-2013 04:48 PM

If it’s the”original” blade it was likely junk from day one. Figure out what you want to cut and go buy the best blade(s) money can buy. The best saw on the planet with a chit blade = a crap saw. The reverse is also true.

-- What day is it ? No matter. Ummmm What month is it ? No moron. I paid for a 2 x 6. That means Two inches by six inches. I want the rest of my wood.

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MrRon

3926 posts in 2709 days


#6 posted 08-20-2013 06:23 PM

You can only use a diamond wheel to sharpen carbide. If you have many chipped teeth, it probably isn’t worth sharpening, and can you sharpen carbide yourself? NO; not without the proper machines and training. Sharpening carbide saw blades is not a do-it-yourself task you can do manually, by eye. The process has to be a precision setup. Even non-carbide blades require a precisie setup that requires specialized machines. I know this because I used to run a sharpening shop and saw blades were my specialty.

There is no such thing as a “touch-up” of saw teeth. They all have to be exactly the same or it will never cut well. Save your old blade and use it to cut up scrap lumber. Buy a new blade for your good projects.

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knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#7 posted 08-20-2013 08:03 PM

I wouldn’t attempt to sharpen a good blade myself due to the potential damage I could inflict. No point in even spending on time on a junk blade….it’ll be a messed up junk blade when all is said and done.

Current saw blade bargains

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 1827 days


#8 posted 08-20-2013 08:19 PM

Swap it out for a Freud Fusion 8” combo. You’ll never look back.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View Jofa's profile

Jofa

272 posts in 1304 days


#9 posted 08-20-2013 09:08 PM

Wow guys, this is all great advice. I really appreciate the responses.

Ok, I’m not up to the task of even trying to sharpen the stock blade.

Scott, great link there.

Clint, I’ve been thinking about going to an 8” blade actually.

Ok so here’s the next related question…

I see there are some that are considered general purpose, rip, trim, plywood, etc.

Some have 24T, 40T, etc.

This just adds to the confusion! :)

I guess the question is what do I want / need? I do a lot of ripping and I have a nice miter saw for most cross cuts. I also see that there are a lot available with a thin kerf (be it known that I only learned what a kerf is from being here).

It seems some of the blades have a little tab after each or after a set of teeth. i.e.

while others don’t

What does this do? Also, is it a safe assumption that more teeth make for a cleaner cut?

Finally (for now), if I get one with a full kerf, that typically makes a 1/8” cut (correct me if this is inaccurate). However, it seems that also jives with the measurement on my rip fence settings. Would a thin kerf make a 1/16th cut?

Thanks again guys.

-- Thank you Lord for the passion and ability to make things from your creation.

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dbhost

5607 posts in 2697 days


#10 posted 08-20-2013 09:13 PM

Rip blades, that cut along the grain of the wood, require fewer teeth to do their jobs well. Typically a good rip blade will have 24 or so teeth in a 10” blade.

Crosscut blades that are cutting across the grain have more teeth spaced more closely together, they typically have 60 or so teeth, most commonly around 80. Some are rated for metals as well, look carefully at your options when you shop.

General purpose blade sort of straddle the difference, work well in ply, and compressed materials such as MDF. They typically ahve 40 or so teeth…

I have one of each, 24, 40, and 80T 10” Freud Diablo blades. The Irwin Marples blue blades are newer than mine, I might have considered them if they existed when I bought my blades. Heard really good things about them…

-- My workshop blog can be found at http://daves-workshop.blogspot.com

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knotscott

7216 posts in 2841 days


#11 posted 08-20-2013 09:29 PM

The ABC's of picking saw blades

The “tabs” you mentioned are anti-kickback fingers…..I’ve used blades with and without, and have never noticed a difference to do them. Freud makes blades with and without, as do others, so I doubt that it’s essential. I’d pick the blade that best suit your needs and not sweat those fingers.

Most thin kerf blades are 3/32”, but there are some ultra thin kerf blades that are 1/16”. A full kerf 1/8” blade is 33% wider than a 3/32” “TK”, and takes proportionately more power to spin. Most residential saws are capable of spinning a full kerf blade, but the TK’s are easier on the motor and will feed easier into the blade….it’ll be especially noticeable when cutting thicker materials.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View DocSavage45's profile

DocSavage45

7705 posts in 2308 days


#12 posted 08-21-2013 12:06 AM

So you are going for a new blade. I’m thinking the old one might be special? It’s not a hand saw so it has less character? I’m thinking you could turn itinto a clock face and mount it in a frame with a little brass plate to remind you?

Lots of projects on converting things to clocks.

You could clean it up, and practice sharpening if you have time and patience. Might need a diamond fle if it’s carbide.

-- Cau Haus Designs, Thomas J. Tieffenbacher

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 1827 days


#13 posted 08-21-2013 02:50 PM

Jofa…I only use my table saw for ripping, and the 8” Freud Fusion combo handles anything up to 1 1/2” oak with no problem.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

View Loren's profile

Loren

8313 posts in 3113 days


#14 posted 08-21-2013 02:56 PM

Most 10” blades in the 24 to 40 tooth range do well with
ripping. Most blades below 30 teeth don’t crosscut
cleanly and that means they tend to chew up plywood
veneers some. If you want to rip adequately fast and
get ok cuts in plywood, look for a blade around 36 teeth –
less for faster ripping and more for cleaner plywood cuts.

There’s a lot more to it of course with tooth geometry,
gullets and manufacturing quality control figuring in
to what kind of results you can expect. Generally
the better brands seem to be made in Europe, USA,
Canada and Japan – there’s a lot of choices depending
on how much you want to spend and the kind of
results you are after.

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