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Which band saw blades to you keep on hand?

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 08-19-2013 06:28 PM 1013 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1100 posts in 1746 days


08-19-2013 06:28 PM

Topic tags/keywords: question

Really just getting into using the band saw. It’s an older Delta 14” and seems to be in great shape. I have a 1/4” 10tpi blade and a 1/2” 3tpi (hook, raker) and that’s it. Just 2 blades. I haven’t gotten into resawing and not sure how much resawing I’ll be doing with a 14” band saw, but I figure I can probably tension up to about a 5/8” blade. Not sure I could do a 3/4” justice.

So my question is, which blades do you tend to keep on hand? Is there a blade you generally leave in the saw (like a general purpose blade for most of what you do) and only change it when you have to?

I realize this is a little tough to answer since I haven’t decided yet how I’m going to USE the saw, but I know I have uses for the 2 blades I have as I’ve already used them. :)
Do you keep spares?

I was trying to decide today whether to get a 1/8”. If I’m even considering getting a scroll saw, is it worth it to have the 1/8” band saw blade?

Here’s a pic of the “Grey Lady”


9 replies so far

View OggieOglethorpe's profile

OggieOglethorpe

1211 posts in 1570 days


#1 posted 08-19-2013 06:40 PM

For my 14” saw, I keep a 1/4” x 6 and a 1/2” x 3, and a spare for each. I also have a 3/16” x 10, but have never used it.

99% of the time, the 1/2” is installed.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7143 posts in 2374 days


#2 posted 08-19-2013 08:13 PM

On my 14in Rikon I have two TimberWolf blades, a 1/4in 10TPI and a 3/4in 2-3TPI (to replace my well used 3/4in 3TPI). I do have to say that the new 3/4 2-3TPI is one amazing blade. It works much better than my older 3TPI only blade. Those extra deep gullets make all of the distance when resawing.

And like Barry, +99% of the time I have the 3/4in resaw blade installed.

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3108 days


#3 posted 08-19-2013 08:17 PM

On my 14” BS I have a 1/2” woodslicer on the saw 99% of the time for resawing and general work. I also carry a 2nd spare of that one just in case it breaks in the middle of a project.

I also have (had) a 1/8” blade for tight curve work which I just broke off :/ – I suppose I should be ordering a replacement

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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pintodeluxe

4852 posts in 2273 days


#4 posted 08-19-2013 08:27 PM

1/2” 3 tpi Olsen All-Pro hooked blade for most of my cuts. I use the bandsaw to make gentle curves on lower rails, resawing, and notching furniture parts. I have found that an aggressive hooked blade with low tooth count gives me the best results for all of these tasks.

If you choose a blade with a higher tooth count, you may experience barrel cuts or drifting as the blade dulls.
I’m sure other brands are just as good, but I can buy the Olsen All-Pro locally and they are reasonable.
Somehow, carbide bandsaw blades have not found there way into the mainstream yet. The steel blades work well, but will dull after prolonged use.

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

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OggieOglethorpe

1211 posts in 1570 days


#5 posted 08-19-2013 09:23 PM

I’m a big fan of All-Pro’s myself… Coastal sells them locally, pretty reasonably priced, to boot!

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Woodmaster1

736 posts in 2047 days


#6 posted 08-20-2013 12:19 AM

Mike, so the 3/4” blade works great on the 14” rikon? If that is the case I think a 3/4” blade will be a future purchase.

View Woodbum's profile

Woodbum

728 posts in 2525 days


#7 posted 08-20-2013 01:54 PM

I keep 2 Woodslicer 1/2” blades on hand for resawing. Also 1-2 1/8”, 1/4” and 1/2” by Olson All-Pro or MVP blades or Carter blades for curved cutting and general cutting. MVP, All Pro or Carter, depending on which ones I can get a volume discount on. Nothing worse than a broken blade in the middle of a crucial project milling process and not having a spare. I use the Woodslicer blades only for resawing. That way I save the tooth set and sharpness for resawing accuracy. I am using a Jet 14” saw with Carter bearing guides.

-- "Now I'm just another old guy wearing funny clothes"

View Loren's profile

Loren

8295 posts in 3107 days


#8 posted 08-20-2013 03:10 PM

If you get 1/8” blades, be prepared to break them. Soldering
kits are easy to use and not expensive. I buy blade coil
and solder up my own blades, which makes them a
lot cheaper.

For straight cuts a 1/2” blade will do well, though it will
tend to lead as it gets dull. Wider blades lead less,
assuming the guides are set up for them and the
blade is under adequate tension.

I presently leave my regular band saw set up with a
1/4” blade because that’s the stock I have. I really
prefer 3/8” because it will cut straight enough for
ripping and joinery and do the modest curves
I use in my work as well. I seldom do scrolling on
the band saw.

View HorizontalMike's profile

HorizontalMike

7143 posts in 2374 days


#9 posted 08-20-2013 07:27 PM

”...Mike, so the 3/4” blade works great on the 14” rikon? If that is the case I think a 3/4” blade will be a future purchase….”

YES it does, and the 3/4×2/3 VPC works even better than the other 3/4in blades available. And this blade works with less tension than the 3/4×3AS-S version, a BIG plus factor IMO.

NOTE: on a 14in BS make sure you order the thinner 0.025” version. The 14in BS’s need the thinner blade because of their tighter turning radius.
http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/sili-steel-carbide-chart.html

Michael

-- HorizontalMike -- "Woodpeckers understand..."

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