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A question about cutting Kerfs on Box Joint, Box joinery?

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Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 380 days ago 957 views 0 times favorited 8 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Blackie_

3378 posts in 1147 days


380 days ago

I have a question on finger joint, box joint and dovetail joinery when it comes to cutting the kerfs on the inside side walls for the bottom’s and the lids how is this done?

I have miter joinery down and figured out but after completed my first box joint joinery box and after cutting the bottom kerf for the bottom panel, I went through the box joints exposing the inner of the box lucky I was able to hide the mistakes with square pegs cut to fit the 1/4” square holes left in the side of the box on all 4 corners.

Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


8 replies so far

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MrFid

518 posts in 539 days


#1 posted 380 days ago

I was trying to come up with a solution to this recently as well. From what I see, you have two options:

1. Cut your kerf for the bottom and lid with a router table with stop blocks positioned such that the bit won’t get all the way through the finger, or

2. Your solution.

Personally, I prefer the router table route, as I think it’s a cleaner look not to have to worry about plugs.

With plugs, you have two options:

1. Use matching wood with matching grain orientation with the hope of making the plug unnoticeable, or

2. Use a contrasting wood and highlight the fact that you used plugs a la Greene and Greene style sort of a thing. Use them as a design feature.

Maybe there are better ways which someone has come up with, but these are the two I have used in the past. Good luck, I’ll be watching this thread in case someone is smarter than me (generally, most people seem to be).

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

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Blackie_

3378 posts in 1147 days


#2 posted 380 days ago

Thanks Bailey

OK so using stop blocks means I’d have to position the work starting point at the up spiral bit and then press into it then move piece making sure I stop before exiting the finger.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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MrFid

518 posts in 539 days


#3 posted 380 days ago

Yeah. What you’re basically doing is cutting a really long mortise. Here a good page with some decent illustrations.

You want two stop blocks positioned so that the bit enters and exits the wood at the correct locations.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

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littlecope

2898 posts in 2137 days


#4 posted 380 days ago

I’ve always just blocked up the exposures like you did Randy until recently, when I started mitering the top and bottom of each joint…Two more corners to fit...
I want to try the router method that Bailey mentioned sometime… It’s my understanding that you drill shallow holes on either end of the dado, so you don’t have to plunge the piece onto the router… I think that would help on setting the router fence too!

-- Mike in Concord, NH---Unpleasant tasks are simply worthy challenges to improve skills.

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Blackie_

3378 posts in 1147 days


#5 posted 380 days ago

Bailey that link was broken

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10740 posts in 1325 days


#6 posted 380 days ago

I use the router table and 2 stop blocks method. I usually make 2 passes rather than extending the bit to achieve the final depth in 1 pass. This makes it easier to control.

I bought some odd sized spiral bits to accommodate the different plywood thickness from Grizzly and really like them.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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MrFid

518 posts in 539 days


#7 posted 380 days ago

http://www.woodworkingtips.com/etips/2005/06/24/wb/

See if that one works.

-- Bailey F - Eastern Mass.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3378 posts in 1147 days


#8 posted 380 days ago

Mike, I like your method, I currently am using my router table for all of my kerf’s don’t like much swapping on tablesaw blades,

Andy makes perfect since thanks.

New link works Bailey thanks.

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

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