Cutting Plexiglass or Acrylic with the Freud P410 Fusion blade

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Forum topic by tengallonhat posted 08-14-2013 04:23 PM 2246 views 1 time favorited 16 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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79 posts in 1780 days

08-14-2013 04:23 PM

Topic tags/keywords: tablesaw question

I have a Freud P410 blade that I use for most of my table saw cuts.

I have been fighting with cutting glass for picture frames and creating tons of waste. I am thinking I will switch to plexiglass or some kiind of Acrylic sheet material.

The Freud website recommends you don’t use the P410 for non-ferrous materials. Any idea why? I realize it might not be optimal for plastic – but what’s the worst that will happen? I realize the edge may be a little rough from too much heat, but I can live with that I think.

If I shouldn’t use this blade, are there others that will work acceptably well? I have a bunch of older rip/crosscut blades I could throw on in a pinch. I would like to avoid buying a blade for plastics at this point given the amount of glass I’ve wasted and the higher cost of plastic sheets.

16 replies so far

View debianlinux's profile


53 posts in 1789 days

#1 posted 08-14-2013 04:29 PM

Am I the only one who just scores and pops plexiglass to get perfectly clean lines? I doubt it works for anything much over 1/4” but you said you were doing this for picture frames. The big drawback to this method is your cut line extends edge to edge. It has never been an issue for me, though. If you crack to width and your length is a close multiple of your height it should work just great. No loss to kerf, either.

View Fred Hargis's profile

Fred Hargis

4999 posts in 2518 days

#2 posted 08-14-2013 04:47 PM

Your blade should cut it, but the cut will be rough and there may be small cracks and chips along the edge. Cutting plastic is much smoother with a blade that has a negative hook angle, and a lot of teeth. I use a Freud LU91 for plastic, and it does very well.

-- Our village hasn't lost it's idiot, he was elected to congress.

View Woodknack's profile


11777 posts in 2405 days

#3 posted 08-14-2013 05:29 PM

The 40T will cause some chipping and you’ll have plastic bits flying back at you. A plywood blade would be better.

-- Rick M,

View ZacD's profile


34 posts in 1784 days

#4 posted 08-14-2013 05:36 PM

I really wouldn’t use a 10 inch blade with less than 80 teeth for plexi. I work for a museum and have wasted my fair share of plexiglass because I felt to lazy to change the blade. Anything rated for clean cutting plywood will probably be fine. If you have a bandsaw, that is also a good option or even a fine toothed hand saw. I wouldn’t expect good results from a 40 tooth blade. If you go for it anyway, go extremely slow! Plexiglass shatters under enough pressure.

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David Dean

608 posts in 2924 days

#5 posted 08-14-2013 09:45 PM

Well I use this Diablo combination 50 T for alote of stuff in the shop.

View Gene Howe's profile

Gene Howe

10532 posts in 3453 days

#6 posted 08-14-2013 10:01 PM

Dunno about plexiglass but Lexan cuts well with a 50T blade.
Wife is a quilter and she has me cut designs for her from Lexan. Straight cuts with a 50T and curves with the band saw. Edges clean up on the Rigid OS.
Just finished a gun cabinet and the doors had lexan instead of glass. All cut on the TS.

-- Gene 'The true soldier fights not because he hates what is in front of him, but because he loves what is behind him.' G. K. Chesterton

View lumbermeister's profile


128 posts in 2004 days

#7 posted 09-05-2013 11:16 PM

I was cutting picture frame glass until recently – I was mostly successful, but this was my least favorite part of frame making.

And then , Eureka! A breakthrough….. Get ready…. Lowes!

Turns out that Lowes stores are quipped with glass cutting equipment, and they do it for free (just the other day, I walked out with 20” x 30” glass, cut down from a 24” x 30” pane). They sell and cut panes, large and small.

As for me, I am glad to be out of the glass cutting business, so to speak.

View yrob's profile


340 posts in 3677 days

#8 posted 09-05-2013 11:23 PM

i use a 80 tooth plywood/ melanime blade to cut 1/4” plexi. In order to avoid melting it
you need to feed it at a good pace.

-- Yves

View Dabcan's profile


255 posts in 2696 days

#9 posted 09-05-2013 11:32 PM

i cut plexiglass on my bandsaw the other day. Cut had no chips, but wasn’t perfectly smooth, didn’t take much sanding to make it acceptable though. Much better than on my table saw.

-- @craftcollectif ,,

View knotscott's profile


8056 posts in 3400 days

#10 posted 09-05-2013 11:54 PM

”The Freud website recommends you don’t use the P410 for non-ferrous materials. Any idea why? ”

Heat. The Fusion has a dual side grind with very tight side clearances….those parameters leave a more highly polished edge on wood than most blades, but would melt plexi and plastics. The “No Melt” blades intended to cut plastics have a much more generous side clearance to avoid heat. The lowish tooth count isn’t ideal for plexi either.

-- Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

View Woodknack's profile


11777 posts in 2405 days

#11 posted 09-06-2013 01:18 AM

Used to be a mom & pop glass shop down the street that was cheaper than The Borg but the guy retired. It was nice because you could just go in and tell them what you wanted the glass for, the size, and go back later and pick it up; cut with polished edges.

-- Rick M,

View fussy's profile


980 posts in 3076 days

#12 posted 09-06-2013 01:40 AM

1. Learn to cut glass. Lubricate your cutter (wheel type) with light oil. Or follow above advice on blade selection. If the cut is a little rough, pass a propane torch back and forth along the edge-keep it moving- and it will smooth right out.


-- Steve in KY. 44 years so far with my lovely bride. Think I'll keep her.

View oldnovice's profile


6898 posts in 3393 days

#13 posted 09-06-2013 06:20 PM

Since I live in earthquake country I use Plexiglas for 99% of my picture frames. I use the non glare anti reflection acrylic typically 1/32” thick (thicker material is available). This material has a slight texture on one side, the side facing the viewer, stops all reflections, and allows viewing the framed image from any angle.

It is easy to cut with TS or the scribe/break method.

It is available from Tap Plastics and various sources on eBay.

-- "I never met a board I didn't like!"

View MrRon's profile


4794 posts in 3268 days

#14 posted 09-06-2013 07:40 PM

Not recommended for non-ferrous metals means any metal other than ferrous (steel, iron) Acrylic is not a metal.

View Jenine's profile


146 posts in 1748 days

#15 posted 12-30-2013 03:36 PM

For anyone still seeking out this thread to find a good blade for cutting lexan at the table saw…I just bought the Freud 84T blade made for non-ferrous metal and plastics. It cuts Lexan SO well! Much better than the 80 tooth wood cross cutting blade I had used before. Can’t wait to use it for other projects and see how it performs. At this price, you can really afford to have a specialty blade in the shop…

-- - Montana sucks. Tell your friends.

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