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Supporting the corner of a corner desk

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Forum topic by alantor posted 335 days ago 1200 views 1 time favorited 3 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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alantor

1 post in 336 days


335 days ago

Hey everyone,

I have designed a corner desk that I would like to build out of mahogany ASAP so that I don’t have to keep typing on the floor…

However, I wanted to get some opinions of whether or not my design would work.
http://alan-torres.com/post/images/cornerdesk.png

The bulk of the weight would be supported by the drawer cabinets on the ends but I don’t know what I should do to support the shorter slab on the inside corner of the desk. Would some kind of bracing on the underside be strong enough? I intend for the center of the longer portion of the desk be the main writing/typing area. I really want to avoid having my leg room compromised by any supporting legs.

Thanks in advance!


3 replies so far

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TCCcabinetmaker

925 posts in 942 days


#1 posted 335 days ago

It’s not the bulk of the weight you need to worry so much as the weakest point on which the weight will be dispersed, which in this case is in the joint in the middle of the corner…

I would add a bracket, which doesn’t have to be substantial on the front end to reinforce the weak point, it can be swept back so as to allow for legs.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View reedwood's profile

reedwood

858 posts in 1263 days


#2 posted 334 days ago

If you added a 1×2 1/4 “face frame” under the front edge on both tops, you should still have enough leg room.

It would help support both tops and add a nice detail to make it more like furniture. Add a cleat on the long side made of oak the same size to go behind the mahogany if more strength needed. The corner can be screwed together and a right angle bracket inside will keep it strong.

That’s how I did my T shaped office desk. see post if curious.
I also made it so it can be taken apart and rearranged or downsized too.

BTW – I used two metal file cabinets that were 30” tall and wrapped them in oak panels. Problem is, by the time I added another 1 1/2 for the top and casework it was too high. I had to buy drafting chairs and raise them up.

If I get a chance (yea, right) I may cut the whole thing down to 30” which should be the max for a desk.

28 to 29” is even better but it doesn’t leave much room for a pencil drawer or a chair with arms.

-- mark

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hobby1

274 posts in 884 days


#3 posted 334 days ago

Not knocking anyone elses opinions, they are all great ideas, so this is just my opinion the way I would do it , I would cut a 45deg. brace that could attach half way at the intersection, then fasten it to the back wall leg in line with it, that way leg room is not compromised, at the front with a post.

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