|Forum topic by Charlie||posted 386 days ago||1579 views||14 times favorited||21 replies|
386 days ago
Wow… I just did a Snodgrass setup on my band saw and wanted to see how thin a slice I could take off…. accurately. I sliced a 1×6 on edge and sliced off a thin sheet and then measured it.
so that’s about 2 thousandths thicker than 1/64 of an inch. Greatest variance I could find was HALF a thousandth.
The board was only about a foot long, but still… for anything I’m doing that’s a pretty remarkable degree of accuracy from an old Delta 14 inch band saw. :)
A lot of what he talked about in the video I was already doing, but a SIGNIFICANT piece was one I was missing. When he said, “Do NOT make your wheels coplanar” that got my attention. Then he talked about setting the deepest part of the gullet to the center of the tire. Don’t center the blade. Set the gullet bottom to the center. “Hmmmmmm…”, says I. Easy enough to try.
Wow. That made a real difference.
He’s also very adamant about, “There IS NO DRIFT on a band saw.” Basically saying if it’s set up right, there is no drift. It cuts straight. This is actually something I was taught by a VERY good shop teacher in high school. He was big on band saws. He said we should NEVER try to adjust a fence to compensate for what he called “an improper cut” on the band saw. He said if it wasn’t cutting straight, then it wasn’t set up properly. The blade is either too far forward or back on the tire.
Snodgrass just reaffirmed what I was taught some 40+ years ago.
Anyways…. a link to that video should come up any time someone asks about setting up a band saw. Snodgrass uses very simple and easy methods to get things working right. No fancy digital gauges or machinist squares or expensive blade deflection measuring devices or whatever.