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Just did a Snodgrass setup on the band saw

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Forum topic by Charlie posted 354 days ago 1520 views 14 times favorited 21 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Charlie

1001 posts in 891 days


354 days ago

Topic tags/keywords: tip

Wow… I just did a Snodgrass setup on my band saw and wanted to see how thin a slice I could take off…. accurately. I sliced a 1×6 on edge and sliced off a thin sheet and then measured it.

.017 inches

so that’s about 2 thousandths thicker than 1/64 of an inch. Greatest variance I could find was HALF a thousandth.

The board was only about a foot long, but still… for anything I’m doing that’s a pretty remarkable degree of accuracy from an old Delta 14 inch band saw. :)

A lot of what he talked about in the video I was already doing, but a SIGNIFICANT piece was one I was missing. When he said, “Do NOT make your wheels coplanar” that got my attention. Then he talked about setting the deepest part of the gullet to the center of the tire. Don’t center the blade. Set the gullet bottom to the center. “Hmmmmmm…”, says I. Easy enough to try.

Wow. That made a real difference.

He’s also very adamant about, “There IS NO DRIFT on a band saw.” Basically saying if it’s set up right, there is no drift. It cuts straight. This is actually something I was taught by a VERY good shop teacher in high school. He was big on band saws. He said we should NEVER try to adjust a fence to compensate for what he called “an improper cut” on the band saw. He said if it wasn’t cutting straight, then it wasn’t set up properly. The blade is either too far forward or back on the tire.

Snodgrass just reaffirmed what I was taught some 40+ years ago.

Anyways…. a link to that video should come up any time someone asks about setting up a band saw. Snodgrass uses very simple and easy methods to get things working right. No fancy digital gauges or machinist squares or expensive blade deflection measuring devices or whatever.


21 replies so far

View Gary's profile

Gary

7007 posts in 2038 days


#1 posted 354 days ago

Thanks for the tip, Charlie. Going to give that a try

-- Gary, DeKalb Texas only 4 miles from the mill

View Chris208's profile

Chris208

168 posts in 875 days


#2 posted 354 days ago

I use the Snodgrass methods, too. Easy, and great results every time.

Bandsaw set up was a bit of a mystery to me until I saw that video. I recommend it to anyone that owns and uses a bandsaw.

View Richard's profile

Richard

400 posts in 1296 days


#3 posted 354 days ago

I’m a believer too. When I was setting up my new bandsaw a few months ago I had my phone in hand, stepping through the Snodgrass video on youtube. It cuts beautifully.

-- "It ain't what you don't know that gets you into trouble. It's what you know for sure that just ain't so." - Mark Twain

View NiteWalker's profile

NiteWalker

2709 posts in 1182 days


#4 posted 354 days ago

I set up my 10” craftsman bs using the techniques in that video and it works great.

-- He who dies with the most tools... dies with the emptiest wallet.

View blackcherry's profile

blackcherry

3148 posts in 2428 days


#5 posted 354 days ago

Yes been using this set up for years works wonderful!

View ToddJB's profile

ToddJB

1749 posts in 735 days


#6 posted 353 days ago

Charlie, thanks for the video. I’ll have to go rework my whole set up (which I’m been amazing frustrated with).

Did you get those results using the original block guides, or do you have the carter rollers?

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View Charlie's profile

Charlie

1001 posts in 891 days


#7 posted 353 days ago

ToddJB,
I have the original guides. No fancy shmancy roller guides. :)

Not to say I wouldn’t have them if I could. They’re just real low on the priority list with everything else that’s going on. :)

Another advantage to the Snodgrass method of where to position the blade on the tire, is that if the bottom of the gullet is always in the same place, then you don’t have to adjust the guide blocks for and aft when you change blades. Only need to adjust the thrust bearings.

If blade THICKNESS changes, you’d most likely have to adjust the guides, but going from a 1/2” 3TPI to a 1/4” 6 TPI, you wouldn’t have to change them if blade thickess is the same.

View ToddJB's profile

ToddJB

1749 posts in 735 days


#8 posted 353 days ago

Yeah. I have a Delta 14” too, from the 40’s. I found a 6” extension for it, and haven’t been able to get it running right since I installed it. I’ll try this method.

-- I came - I sawed - I over-built

View sgv's profile

sgv

266 posts in 497 days


#9 posted 353 days ago

watched it on a scroll saw site WOW !!!!!! I dont know any thing 8-( going to try it

-- Tite Lines, May the wind be at your back

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10604 posts in 1295 days


#10 posted 353 days ago

That is an excellent method to set up a bandsaw BUT it does not apply when you are using 3/4” or 1” blades as you can’t center the gullets without having the back of the blade behind the back edge of the wheel.

I wish someone would ask him how he sets up wide blades.

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Surfside's profile

Surfside

3050 posts in 778 days


#11 posted 351 days ago

He’s really good in setting up the band saw correctly that’s why his method reaally works for everyone.

-- "someone has to be wounded for others to be saved, someone has to sacrifice for others to feel happiness, someone has to die so others could live"

View SebringDon's profile

SebringDon

95 posts in 545 days


#12 posted 351 days ago

One more vote here for the video. It let me get some mileage out of an old Delta ShopMaster 10”, and since I got my Craftsman 14” I’ve turned into a bandsaw fool. :D

-- Don

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5005 posts in 2318 days


#13 posted 345 days ago

I just watched Alex’s video, went out to my shop applied what I saw and wow it does make a significant difference. I’d been one of those who always centerd my blades. His belt sander analogy made it all make sense!

I was using a 3/4 inch blade and still had room at the back edge on the wheel. Now I just have to buy a proper resaw blade, as I broke my old one after only a few cuts. gfadvm I think if you have blade hanging over the back the blade is probably beyond the manufacturer’s recommended blade widths. What saw are you using?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

View gfadvm's profile

gfadvm

10604 posts in 1295 days


#14 posted 345 days ago

Mark- I’m using a 17” Extreme Series Grizzly and most of my resaw blades are 1”. So I center the BLADE on the wheels. You centered the GULLETS on a 3/4” blade “and still had room at the back edge on the wheel”?

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

View Mark Shymanski's profile

Mark Shymanski

5005 posts in 2318 days


#15 posted 345 days ago

Had to go to the shop to check but yeah there is about an eighth of an inch. I’m using a Rikon 10-325 which is rated max at 3/4” so I’ve maxed out. The 17” Gris wheel should be big enough to take a 1”. Would having 1/8 of an inch or so hanging off the back of the wheel be a dangerous thing? I’m thinking it would be sort of like a beltsander with too wide of a belt, as long as it wasn’t obstructed anywhere it should be okay?

-- "Checking for square? What madness is this! The cabinet is square because I will it to be so!" Jeremy Greiner LJ Topic#20953 2011 Feb 2

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