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Forum topic by Mark posted 08-07-2013 10:19 PM 1041 views 0 times favorited 9 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Mark

820 posts in 1437 days


08-07-2013 10:19 PM

I’m in finishing mode on a Cherry coffee table. I’ve got 2 coats of Minwax Teak oil on the top. As it’s a coffee table I want to finish it with several coats of Minwax wipe on poly. Whatcha think? I know products like Minwax ain’t the best (and there ain’t no Teak oil in it) but I like the results. Thanks. Mark

-- Mark


9 replies so far

View PurpLev's profile

PurpLev

8523 posts in 3111 days


#1 posted 08-07-2013 10:30 PM

seeing that teak oils is a penetrating oil (like BLO) as long as you allow ample time for it to fully dry you should be good to go with a protective finish on top like (oil based) poly – wipe or brushed versions.

just make sure your teak oil is fully dry first.

curious – if you were planning on putting a wipe on poly on this – why bother with the teak oil?

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

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Finisherman

227 posts in 1312 days


#2 posted 08-07-2013 10:35 PM

I don’t think that you would have a problem. As has already been mentioned, make sure you give the teak oil plenty of time to cure, several days, if possible.

View Mark's profile

Mark

820 posts in 1437 days


#3 posted 08-07-2013 10:59 PM

Purplev. I’m assuming I’ll get a bit more”depth of grain” maybe with the Teak oil and use the wipe on poly as a protective coat (s). I believe there is poly in the Teak oil, is it enough? I finished an end table a while back and used 2 coats of MWTeak oil and polished it out with 0000 steel wool and paste wax, but I didn’t think that would be sufficient.

Finisherman. The can says good to go in 6-8 hr. Or is that all BS (which wouldn’t surprise me to much)?

-- Mark

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Finisherman

227 posts in 1312 days


#4 posted 08-08-2013 03:12 AM

Under ideal conditions, you might be able to get away with 6-8 hours of drying time. I was suggesting a few days of curing time to be on the safe side, since you’re top coating your work with poly.

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3111 days


#5 posted 08-08-2013 06:38 PM

I’m not familiar with teak oil product myself but the description states that it’s a penetrating oil so I wouldn’t count on it building up any protective film on top of the wood, if you want protective film – go with poly/lacquer

as stated, 6-8 hours is ideal conditions + when you are not planning on locking that oil under another film finish in which case it will have ample time to fully cure. if you are putting something on top that will prohibit the oil from balancing out it’s always best practice to allow extra time for it to dry – several days at least. you would be surprised how long it takes for BLO to fully dry in some cases.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Purrmaster's profile

Purrmaster

914 posts in 1556 days


#6 posted 08-08-2013 08:22 PM

There is probably no actual teak oil in the teak oil finish. It’s probably an oil/varnish blend like danish oil. I’ve used another finish over danish oil before and it worked fine.

The only oils I know of that are actual just oil are 100% pure tung oil and boiled linseed oil (which has some metallic driers added to the oil).

View coachmancuso's profile

coachmancuso

259 posts in 1394 days


#7 posted 08-08-2013 08:30 PM

I love wipe on poly but it is only like 50% of brush on poly so you will need to double the coats of wipe on poly. Brush on poly will be better on that big of area.

-- Coach Mancuso

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PurpLev

8523 posts in 3111 days


#8 posted 08-08-2013 08:35 PM

from the description = teak oil does not contain teak oil, but it is an oil finish designed specifically to be used on teak and other similar oily wood.

-- ㊍ When in doubt - There is no doubt - Go the safer route.

View Clint Searl's profile

Clint Searl

1533 posts in 1824 days


#9 posted 08-08-2013 11:35 PM

Have it your way.

-- Clint Searl....Ya can no more do what ya don't know how than ya can git back from where ya ain't been

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