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Forum topic by Gannicus posted 08-07-2013 03:26 PM 3447 views 0 times favorited 18 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


08-07-2013 03:26 PM

So I’m in dire need of a good bandsaw, and I don’t feel like shelling out the cash on one, so I’ve decided to build one.

For those of you who don’t know, here is a link to the build. http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/homemade.html

I’m starting in earnest here, as I’m a green horn to wood working, but when a 15 yr old can build a great looking bandsaw, I’m confident that I’ll be able to do the same.

I suppose this thread will be primarily where I’ll ask questions as they come up. I’m currently in the process of sourcing a cheap planer, and a jointer if I can find one before starting, as I’m fairly certain I won’t be making very good pieces without them.

My first question however stems from combing over the instructions, and to begin, I’ll be building the C frame you see in the pictures. One of the most important things of this step is getting everything square and straight. My question is primarily for the glue up. I don’t have a super duper shop bench yet due to space constraints, it’s just a simple 2×4 bench with a ply top. So not exactly 100% level etc.

Here’s the question. HOW do I make sure that the piece remains flat through the glue up? The instructions do say to do the glue up in layers, which I fully intend to do, but my main concern is getting everything flat, true, with no twist.

How is this done without a monolithic 100% flat surface?


18 replies so far

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Cosmicsniper

2202 posts in 2622 days


#1 posted 08-07-2013 04:39 PM

This is a concern with Matthias’ design. I have the plans and have been contemplating this issue myself. Dakremer has a nice blog on this, and a good technique for keeping the glue-up flat, so that is something to look at. I wlll probably end up building mine oversized and then having my frame flattened afterward by a local pro shop…unless I can invent a way with handplane or my 22/44 drum sander and sled.

Regardless, I would have to use my table saw top for the glue up, sans a flat reference table or workbench. I will try to get it perfectly flat to begin with, but I will be prepared for corrective actions.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#2 posted 08-07-2013 04:41 PM

Yeah…using my table saw for glue up is my only real option it would seem, and not something I’m incredibly keen on doing. LOL

edit And thank you Cosmic for the link, this is gonna be an AWESOME read. /thumbs up

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#3 posted 08-07-2013 04:55 PM

Dakremer’s idea of using 3/4 MDF is a gold mine. I have my 1:1 template already printed from my plotter on one sheet, so this is going to work out perfectly I think. Thanks a MILLION Jay. I’ll likely start a blog here as well when I officially begin.

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Cosmicsniper

2202 posts in 2622 days


#4 posted 08-07-2013 05:47 PM

Glad to help, my friend. I’ll be following along on your blog…and welcome to the hobby…you won’t be green for long.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#5 posted 08-07-2013 06:33 PM

Jay, have you sourced a motor for this project yet? It seems Dakremer quit updating the blog, which is a shame.
I have no idea where to begin looking for the motor.

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Cosmicsniper

2202 posts in 2622 days


#6 posted 08-07-2013 07:00 PM

No, not yet. There are cheap options for new, like Harbor Freight, Northern Equipment, and Tractor Supply. I will probably go used via eBay. Used equipment on Craigslist could work too. New USA-built motors would be nice, but if were going to spend big money, I wouldn’t build one. But time constraints being what they are, I might just end up buying a big 3hp Grizzly anyway.

If/when I do build Matthias’ version, I will likely go 2hp or larger. I emailed Matthias and he said he recommends 2hp or less, but that he saw no problem going bigger, technically speaking.

I do have some internal options, like existing equipment and friends where I might acquire a working motor for free (or really cheap), but that hasn’t been explored yet. The cool part is that you can start with something merely adequate and then upgrade as you see fit.

What is cool about the wooden bandsaw is that I could still build it even if I buy a commercial machine first. Owning zero bandsaws or two bandsaws makes sense to me…one bandsaw alone just isn’t right. :)

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#7 posted 08-07-2013 07:03 PM

Excellent point Jay, but I guess my question is…what terminology do you search for on Ebay for what it is we’re looking for for this project? I’ve been looking, and it haven’t been very fruitful. I found this link for a Harbor Freight motor, which seems like it would work, except it’s rotation is counter clockwise and I’m not sure which of those I need for the project, and…I can’t seem to find a link for it on their website to order it anywhere. /shrug

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Cosmicsniper

2202 posts in 2622 days


#8 posted 08-07-2013 07:12 PM

Start with this link…

http://woodgears.ca/bandmill/motorizing.html

Gotta run out, but I’m sure people will pop in on recommendations.

-- jay, www.allaboutastro.com

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Rex B

320 posts in 1714 days


#9 posted 08-07-2013 07:38 PM

Grannicus, I look forward to your blog. I too have purchased Matthias’ plans and will start on the bandsaw “some day”. Hopefully in the next year or so.

As for motors, it looks like Harbor Freight doesn’t list their electric motors online, but they definitely carry them in stores. Grizzly is another option I have considered, something like this one. They also sell pulleys.

-- Rex

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#10 posted 08-07-2013 07:43 PM

Hey Rex, thanks for the links. However I think buying a motor for $200 kind of defeats the purpose of the project. As you can get a brand new bandsaw for the $400 bucks it would end up costing you at that point.

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Rex B

320 posts in 1714 days


#11 posted 08-07-2013 07:49 PM

You’re right that it’s a bit expensive, but based on Matthias’ opinion and that of others who have built the saw, it will be way better and more capable than anything you can buy for $400. I would say more comparable to a $700-800 saw.

If I remember correctly, Harbor Freight sells their 1.5 HP motor for ~$150. But, like Dakremer, I’ve never heard any comment about the quality of those motors.

I’m definitely still hoping I will come across a cheap used one somewhere!

-- Rex

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#12 posted 08-07-2013 07:51 PM

Rex, the 1.5 hp motor would be about $120 after the 20% off coupon…but like you said, the quality worries me about harbor freight stuff.

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Rick M

7917 posts in 1844 days


#13 posted 08-07-2013 08:36 PM

Gannicus, your cheapest motor option would be a used DC motor. You can scavenge one from a used treadmill. The DC > AC converter will be on a small circuit board between the plug and motor. The advantages are: a used treadmill can be had for $0-50 (around here they average $25-35, sometimes free), usually have 2HP motors, are smaller than AC motors, and DC motors provide more torque than AC motors (although this may be negated by the power converter).

-- http://thewoodknack.blogspot.com/

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#14 posted 08-07-2013 11:23 PM

Rick that sounds awesome! I’ll look into that right now.

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Gannicus

32 posts in 1325 days


#15 posted 08-08-2013 12:14 AM

I just want to post various things I’m looking at in here as parts, for others who may be looking for parts as well, and to just get some feedback on them.

Here’s a brand new motor I’ve found. Total with free 2 day shipping is $123.

It’s still a bit on the high side, but there is no farting around, it’s enclosed which is nice (safe) and compared to the Harbor Freight motors, I’d assume is higher quality. I’ll post back with anything else I find cheaper etc.

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