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Forum topic by UpstateNYdude posted 08-04-2013 05:52 PM 838 views 0 times favorited 20 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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UpstateNYdude

463 posts in 670 days


08-04-2013 05:52 PM

So I just spent all last night and the night before cleaning the cutterhead on my new 8” spiral cutterhead jointer it took forever to get all that crap off it. I’m just wondering before I begin the tedious task of cleaning my 15” spiral thickness planer if there is an easier way to get this crap off without disassembling the entire thing and cleaning every carbide blade in it.

I would really prefer not to have to remove the cutterhead also if possible and just spray something on the whole thing and hopefully it just comes off or I can run a junk board through and remove the bulk of it.

Any suggestions I’m open to anything, also is it safe to use this stuff on the carbide blades don’t really want to destroy or replace 70 some odd blades.

Thanks,
Nick

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor


20 replies so far

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Marcus

1060 posts in 707 days


#1 posted 08-04-2013 06:07 PM

Hey nick, I just got a 15” spiral head grizzly a couple months ago and just yesterday cleaned the goop off the replacement 8” spiral cutter for my jointer. For the planer, I took the top off, sprayed my degreaser of choice on it and let it sit for a while. I covered the bed with a towel and turned it on for a minute and watched the goop fly. I did this a couple times and it was pretty clean. After that, I put some soft wood through it, making some pretty deep cuts. After a few passes, they claim out clea, with no oil spots. A quick cover removal confirmed that the cutter was pretty clean. I’ve since put a few hundred bd ft through with no oil spots on the lumber.

I plan on doing something similar for the jointer. Since the cutter was out, I gave it a good scrub with a toothbrush, but I didn’t get too fussy since I know I’m going to put it in the jointer and let the goop fly and then follow up with some throw away wood.

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firefighterontheside

4865 posts in 544 days


#2 posted 08-04-2013 06:09 PM

I dont think there is anything youre likely to spray on the carbide thats gonna hurt it. Im thinking you can just run a board thru and get a lot of it off. You will then probably have dust stuck to the rest that you coukd blow off with compressed air.

-- Bill M. I love my job as a firefighter, but nothing gives me the satisfaction of running my hand over a project that I have built and just finished sanding.

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UpstateNYdude

463 posts in 670 days


#3 posted 08-04-2013 06:10 PM

Did it come off the feed assembly rollers too and the kickbacks? Did you clean the posts off to or just leave that grease on them? Did you use (insert random name) engine degreaser or WD40 or Kerosene?

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor

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UpstateNYdude

463 posts in 670 days


#4 posted 08-04-2013 06:12 PM

Also is there any better oil to use for the gearbox or just any generic automotive oil will work fine? I only glanced quickly at the oil section as I’ve been in the process of cleaning before I move farther on.

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor

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Marcus

1060 posts in 707 days


#5 posted 08-04-2013 06:20 PM

I took a towel and soaked it with goop off and rubbed the rollers down. Same thing, they really didn’t get clean until lumber was going through it.

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Marcus

1060 posts in 707 days


#6 posted 08-04-2013 06:22 PM

And not sure about the oil. I was actually just thinking about that today. I usually like to change oil out after 5 hours of use or so on my new equipment.

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Dusty56

11663 posts in 2375 days


#7 posted 08-04-2013 08:31 PM

I’ve read on here and other sites that you shouldn’t use Simple Green original , on carbide , as it somehow destroys the carbide. The newer Simple Green (purple color) is supposedly o’k to use on it though.
Congrats on your new toy : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

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OhioMike

49 posts in 850 days


#8 posted 08-04-2013 08:56 PM

Hey Dusty, I use simple green in my shop and I had not heard about the problem with carbide so I went to their web site. Sure enough, it has this to say.

Simple Green has been successfully used by many woodworkers over many years as a good “spray – wipe – rinse” cleaner for saw blades. When pitch is fairly fresh (typically within a 12-hr period since deposit) it is fairly easily removed with Simple Green. Older, dried-out pitch is much more difficult to remove. We do not recommend long-term soaking of Carbide blades in Simple Green. Long-term exposure like this can possibly cause cobalt leaching that will, in turn, affect the integrity or carbide. Shorter term “spray/wipe/rinse” applications do not create that kind of problem.

It has been reported to us that long-term soaking of carbide blades covered with older, tougher buildup of pitch in strong, black coffee does a great job of removing pitch without harming the blade.

Thanks, Mike

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bowedstraight

100 posts in 460 days


#9 posted 08-04-2013 09:00 PM

use gear oil for the gear box it’s a heavy wt oil about 90wt do not use any oil in the gear box or you might have problems gears generate a lot of heat so the oil needs to be heavy remember use heavy gear oil at least 80 or 90wt

-- Work in the city woodshop in tha country

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bowedstraight

100 posts in 460 days


#10 posted 08-04-2013 09:02 PM

do not use just any oil please use gear oil or 90 wt or you will be crying on the phone to Grizzly

-- Work in the city woodshop in tha country

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UpstateNYdude

463 posts in 670 days


#11 posted 08-04-2013 09:13 PM

Marcus – Alright so I guess I’ll be WD40’ing it and passing crap lumber through till its clean, thank you, oh and did you remove all the blades and clean all the crap out of every spot or no (I did that with the jointer, man that sucked)

BS – Thanks now that I’ve read that part I see that I’ll need to find some machine oil some place.

-- Nick, “Discovering the truth about ourselves is a lifetime's work, but it's worth the effort.” ― Fred Rogers, Be My Neighbor

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Knothead62

2364 posts in 1648 days


#12 posted 08-04-2013 11:10 PM

“black coffee does a great job of removing pitch without harming the blade.”
Obviously someone from the Navy. They are noted for their strong coffee. ;)
Will give it a try on some TS blades.

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Marcus

1060 posts in 707 days


#13 posted 08-04-2013 11:23 PM

Nick -

Nope, I just clean the majority of the goop off the body and quickly went over the cutters w/ a tooth brush. The majority of the goop came off. With the planer, I didnt even do that much. just a quick wipe on the body. I think you’ll be surprised how much and how quick the goop comes off when you’re actually planing. I just had to hit the same place on the blades/rollers w/ a piece of lumber a couple times and it cleaned right up. You will want to take your dust shroud and top back off and give the inside a good cleaning a again. There was a nice oil/pulp mix that I had to wipe off of the inside.

All grizzly’s manual says about the oil is “SAE 30W” oil. Probably worth a call to the tech’s to confirm.

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Shawn Masterson

1262 posts in 636 days


#14 posted 08-05-2013 01:05 AM

I have never had a new machine. I wonder it the goop is some form of grease, and would the heat from a halogen light cause it to melt off??

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gfadvm

11234 posts in 1377 days


#15 posted 08-05-2013 02:30 AM

I use mineral spirits in a 1 quart sprayer and a soft nylon brush to loosen the gunk. Then rinse with more sprayed on MS (which will evaporate fairly quickly).

-- " I'll try to be nicer, if you'll try to be smarter" gfadvm

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