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Fixing drilled out tote bolt hole.

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Forum topic by lateralus819 posted 08-04-2013 05:11 PM 829 views 0 times favorited 10 replies Add to Favorites Watch
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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1349 days


08-04-2013 05:11 PM

So i picked up a Stanley #7 for $30, had a repair. Must be the original bolt snapped off and they drilled it out. I bought a 1/4 20 rod to see if it was that size and it turns out its a hair bigger, so my guess is it would need to be tapped to 3/8”.

What would you do? Should i just tap it to a 3/8 rod? weld the hole and retap to the original size? Grab a 1/4 20 bolt and grind the head down to fit the recess? Btw they used a bolt and ground the head down and drilled a recess to accept it in the base.

I purchased some 7/16 brass rod to make a new nut.


10 replies so far

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Don W

17955 posts in 2027 days


#1 posted 08-04-2013 08:09 PM

Have a 1/4” x 20 threaded rod brazed in the hole. Make sure the braze fills the hole so you can flatten it to the sole so the sole becomes flat with no hole. Then make a nut like you intended. If you make the nut about an 1” or 1 1/4” you ‘ll have a little extra adjustment room.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1349 days


#2 posted 08-04-2013 08:12 PM

Good idea Don, I’ll see if someone at work might be able to do it.

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Don W

17955 posts in 2027 days


#3 posted 08-04-2013 09:32 PM

ask your welding guy if he thinks this would work. Fill the hole with braze, then drill and tap like normal. If it would work, it may be the best option.

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1349 days


#4 posted 08-04-2013 09:51 PM

Okay, i actually have a machinist at work who is a good welder/machinist. But also knows a lot about hand planes. I’ll check with him and see if i can’t find a solution.

I don’t imagine the weld needs to be as strong as a piece of cast iron that was weight bearing.

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Don W

17955 posts in 2027 days


#5 posted 08-06-2013 08:39 PM

we’re going to need pictures of the fix!!

-- Master hand plane hoarder. - http://timetestedtools.net

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crank49

3980 posts in 2430 days


#6 posted 08-06-2013 10:31 PM

Don’t underestimate the strength of brazing.
It typically has better tensile strength than cast iron.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

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shampeon

1709 posts in 1643 days


#7 posted 08-06-2013 11:53 PM

The only thing I’d add is that vintage Stanleys used uncommon-sized threads for their tote posts. If you braze and retap, you’re not going to be able to use vintage size posts. Which isn’t a big deal, but is worth noting. The taps and dies for vintage Stanleys would cost a lot more than what you paid for the #7.

-- ian | "You can't stop what's coming. It ain't all waiting on you. That's vanity."

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1349 days


#8 posted 08-07-2013 12:08 AM

I ended up NOT going for welding or brazing. I went with a heli-coil thread repair kit. 1/4 20 bolt, ordered some 7/16 brass and will make a new nut to fit. I asked a very proficient welder at work, and he agreed it would look better, and be stronger. Not to mention if i have to i could re do it, and take the post out for any reason.

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lateralus819

2236 posts in 1349 days


#9 posted 08-07-2013 12:09 AM

Only downfall is there is a whole at the bottom of the plane which i might try and use some solder to just cover it up not sure.

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crank49

3980 posts in 2430 days


#10 posted 08-07-2013 03:53 AM

Bondo the hole. Sand it smooth.
The lead in solder will leave streaks on your wood.

-- Michael: Hillary has a long list of accomplishments, though most DAs would refer to them as felonies.

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