Banding issue.

  • Advertise with us

« back to Woodworking Skill Share forum

Forum topic by Mark posted 07-30-2013 10:47 PM 687 views 0 times favorited 4 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Mark's profile


900 posts in 1938 days

07-30-2013 10:47 PM

I’m making a cheery coffee table. It will be banded with thin strips of Walnut (1/16 thick)around the edge, probably 3 strips. I have enclosed 2 sketchup pics (kinda), birds eye view. I favor the one with the cut off ends. Its a no brainer to band. How ever the Mrs. is leaning toward the other one. So the question is how do i attach the banding. Each strip will be a max. 96”. If I try to join in the middle I will have a heck of a time trying to make the 2 corners with out snapping the banding. If I join on the ends,how will I make such a tight fit.


-- Mark

4 replies so far

View TCCcabinetmaker's profile


932 posts in 2318 days

#1 posted 07-31-2013 04:14 AM

You can join it at either the longest end in the middle or the shortest in the middle, If you take an iron, like you iron cloths with, fill it with water and steam the wood it should bend easily enough without breaking.

-- The mark of a good carpenter is not how few mistakes he makes, but rather how well he fixes them.

View Loren's profile (online now)


10252 posts in 3612 days

#2 posted 07-31-2013 04:37 AM

Clamping is tricky. I use double layers of masking tape
when binding guitars but it’s still tricky to force the material
in tight all the way ‘round.

I’d look at banding the substrate with a thicker banding,
as thick as you can get to bend, then veneering over
that so you can shape the banding as solid wood and
then route a chamfer or whatever on the veneer
to get the reveal you want.

There are a lot of ways to bend wood… 1/8” on that
sort of radius is really pretty easy, especially if you
can make a bunch of blanks and break some. A
steel pipe heated with a propane torch works,
but with thin wood you can just make a simple
drying form for the most curved part, pour boiling
water on the section and put it on the form to
dry. Spraying compressed air on the bent material
can help set the bend quicker than air drying each piece.

View RussellAP's profile


3103 posts in 2250 days

#3 posted 07-31-2013 04:57 AM

Walnut is a good wood to bend, but not the best and it has it’s limits no matter how you steam it. If you do the corner option on the right, you won’t get walnut to bend over those corners. It would have to be so thin you may as well not do it. I’d have to just glue a strip to the flat parts and band the rest with a bit of steam if necessary.

If you do use steam, just clamp the walnut up and let it dry and conform, then unclamp it and glue it up and re clamp it. Things will go better if you do it that way. Steam and glue are messy, and it gets the work messy.

I’d cut the walnut to about 1/16” or it will take a dedicated steam kit, which are pretty cheap. I have one. I use a 6” plastic drain pipe with a cap on both ends. It warps up pretty bad, but if you use the green stuff I think it holds up better.

-- A positive attitude will take you much further than positive thinking ever will.

View Mark's profile


900 posts in 1938 days

#4 posted 08-01-2013 03:28 AM

Thank you for your expertise gents. It’s much appreciated. The pic on the right is gone. Voted out by the Mrs. I’m thinkin’ if I just make the curve rounder (less pointed, it might solve my problem. As I said before Thank you for your time.

-- Mark

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics