LumberJocks

When is it safe to remove stickers from stacked air dried wood?

  • Advertise with us

« back to Wood & Lumber forum

Forum topic by Blackie_ posted 368 days ago 1075 views 0 times favorited 28 replies Add to Favorites Watch
View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3292 posts in 1115 days


368 days ago

I have a non heated / cooled metal storage shed sitting under a red oak shade tree the shed is off of the ground with a wood floor and slight air flow through it, I have built a wood rack to store 12” to 24” in length x 1” thick boards cut from logs that I currently have stickered for several months, the situation I have is I’ve ran out of room for some freshly cut mesquite and Elm, I have tested the already stickered boards at a moisture content of between 12 and 16% is it safe to go ahead and remove the stickers from these boards, stacking them on top of each other in the same shed only in a different area of the shed to allow room for the newly stickered boards on the rack?

Thanks

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs


28 replies so far

View Randy_ATX's profile

Randy_ATX

664 posts in 1045 days


#1 posted 368 days ago

The part that catches my eye is that your previous batch have only been stickered for several months. I wouldn’t think that would be enough for 1” thick lumber if it was green wood when sliced up.

Might be a good, legitimate excuse for a shed addition, Randy. :-)

I will store some mesquite for you. ;-)

-- Randy -- Austin, TX by way of Northwest (Woodville), OH

View Quanter50's profile

Quanter50

153 posts in 899 days


#2 posted 368 days ago

I would keep them stickered until your ready to use them, regardless of moisture content.

View Dusty56's profile

Dusty56

11639 posts in 2291 days


#3 posted 368 days ago

I would have to wonder if the new moisture you’ll be introducing wouldn’t get absorbed by the drier boards, being as they are in the same shed with only “slight air flow through it”. Also , the 12-16% MC would change on the inner boards of the pile seeing as there is no longer any air movement between them. Chances are the outer boards would start to cup as well because they would be in contact with the inner boards on one face , and exposed to air on the other face. Just my thoughts on the matter : )

-- I'm absolutely positive that I couldn't be more uncertain!

View Jim Jakosh's profile

Jim Jakosh

11097 posts in 1708 days


#4 posted 368 days ago

I agree with Quanter50. Leave the stick in until you need to use them. I generally go one year before I use them, too…..........Jim

-- Jim Jakosh.....Practical Wood Products...........Learn something new every day!! Variety is the Spice of Life!!

View  Box 's profile

Box

4937 posts in 1911 days


#5 posted 368 days ago

Several months isn’t that long for air drying and might cause them to warp if the stickers are removed. If it is possible keep them snickered longer. Better safe than sorry

View Shawn Masterson's profile

Shawn Masterson

1243 posts in 551 days


#6 posted 368 days ago

a year an inch is my rule of thumb. I have some poplar was tight stacked after 5 years of being sticked. these boards are fine, and the humidity is around 65% on the shop. I probably won’t use any until the humidity levels off. I do try to keep my material in the rough till I am ready to use it.

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3292 posts in 1115 days


#7 posted 368 days ago

One thing I failed to mention was that these trees, logs I cut from were already dead anywhere between 2 to 5 years but I’m going to take everyone advise and do my best to keep them all stickered, Randy, the shed I am using was the addition. LOL I’m just a wood gloat and it just keeps falling into my lap, I’m saving a bundle in over head. LOL

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View Blackie_'s profile

Blackie_

3292 posts in 1115 days


#8 posted 368 days ago

Another thing I can do, I have them stickered with 1” stickers I’ll mill the stickers down to 3/4” that should help a little.

Thanks everyone

-- Randy - If I'm not on LJ's then I'm making Saw Dust. Please feel free to visit my store location at http://www.facebook.com/randy.blackstock.custom.wood.designs

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile

joeyinsouthaustin

1216 posts in 675 days


#9 posted 368 days ago

There are several posts about sticking out doors. I have been forced to do it several times over the years. You don’t need a new shed, just the right tarps.

-- Who is John Galt?

View Nomad62's profile

Nomad62

690 posts in 1561 days


#10 posted 368 days ago

Once below 20% or so you should be able to dead stack them without concern for mold or mildew, but it does give a better hiding place for bugs if that is a concern.

-- Power tools put us ahead of the monkeys

View Roger's profile

Roger

14166 posts in 1407 days


#11 posted 368 days ago

I hope you can figure it out. Gr8 question/s.

-- Roger from KY. Work/Play/Travel Safe. Kentuk55@bellsouth.net

View pintodeluxe's profile

pintodeluxe

3274 posts in 1416 days


#12 posted 368 days ago

I prefer to let green lumber air dry outside. Stack and sticker the new lumber outside on some level skids. Once it reaches around 15%, bring it in to dry further. You will need to keep the lumber stickered until kiln dried. The only lumber I dead stack is kiln dried lumber.

Good luck

-- Willie, Washington "If You Choose Not To Decide, You Still Have Made a Choice" - Rush

View WDHLT15's profile

WDHLT15

1078 posts in 1079 days


#13 posted 368 days ago

Nomad is right on. If you are sure that the moisture content is below 20%, you are fine to dead stack it. Takes up half the space, too.

The 1” rule of thumb for air drying wood is not accurate. It depends on your climate. In areas where there are good drying conditions year round like in the South where there is little ice and snow, 1” thick lumber dries faster than one year down to 12 -16% moisture content. I also use box fans to circulate air for some easier to dry species like walnut, cherry, maple, and poplar. These can dry to 15% here in Georgia in 120 days. 1” red oak takes me 6 months on average and white oak takes 8 months. I do not use fans on oak as you cannot dry it too fast or it will case-harden and honeycomb. This drying takes place under a 25’ x 60’ shed open on all sides with side height of 10’ to the roof. Here is a view of some of the stacks under the shed.

Here is another pic of a stack of maple, and you can see a simple box fan on the far left of the picture.

I realize that not everyone has an air drying shed like this one, but as long as you can assure good air flow to take away evaporating water, you can do a very good job air drying wood. It also helps to understand the drying characteristics of the various species and, if you dry a lot of wood, it is critical to have a good moisture meter. It is never a good idea to try and dry wood in an enclosed building. Better to do it outside and build a roof over it.

-- Danny Located in Perry, GA. Forester. Wood-Mizer LT15 Sawmill. Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln

View 8iowa's profile

8iowa

1489 posts in 2364 days


#14 posted 368 days ago

According to woodworking author Nick Engler in “Woodworking wisdom” wood stickered in stacks outside looses it’s “free water in one to four months. Later, the wood eventually looses the “bound water” in the cells of the wood reaching a moisture content somewhat in accordance with the prevailing local relative humidity.

I stack my wood outside, with stickers, under a tarp, for at least a year. Then I go thru the stack, discarding the boards that have obvious defects. The good lumber then goes up into the loft of my “Workshop in the Woods”. I sticker the stacks in the loft and let them dry for another year, or at least thru a winter, when the moisture content in the air is very low.

Then It’s a good idea to take any boards selected for a project down to the rack in my shop, and let it sit there for at least a several days in order to allow the wood to react to the humidity in the shop. It seems that if I ignore this “shop drying” time I’m usually sorry.

-- "Heaven is North of the Bridge"

View joeyinsouthaustin's profile

joeyinsouthaustin

1216 posts in 675 days


#15 posted 367 days ago

I have a stack of cedar drying right now, sticked, and with a fan, in an AC environment. This is a good thread to hop on, as cedar is a wood I have the least experience with working. (from a milling and working perspective… can’t tell you how many decks and fences I have built :) Should I be concerned about case hardening, or other problems drying it to fast. My instincts say no, but any input would be appreciated.

edit: 1×4 3/4 boards that were sold air dry… but from an outdoor yard, and with recent rains here were off the scale on my meter.

-- Who is John Galt?

showing 1 through 15 of 28 replies

Have your say...

You must be signed in to reply.

DISCLAIMER: Any posts on LJ are posted by individuals acting in their own right and do not necessarily reflect the views of LJ. LJ will not be held liable for the actions of any user.

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

HomeRefurbers.com

Latest Projects | Latest Blog Entries | Latest Forum Topics

GardenTenders.com :: gardening showcase